The main reason for going down a 3 Litre Twin cam path is due to the fact I can use my existing block and engine number. No engineering required. My plan to start with was to use a VCT RB25DE and put my SC14 system on that but a 10:1 Compression ratio isn't too crash hot with forced induction (I'm sure you'll all agree) and I'd have to get the car engineered and passed through Regency.....not good...Oh and my (abused) SOHC RB30E that survived a SC14, was getting a nit long in the tooth....new rings and bearings.... The RB30 Twin cam motor has all the advantages like keeping my engine number, a 8.1-3:1 compression ratio is is good for boost, 500cc of displacement (always a good thing) and twin cams allow me much more freedom with my cam timeing -- I'd like to see how a little overlap on a Supercharged motor would help things along, blow the hot charge out of the combustion chamber......you can't do that with a SOHC motor without getting a custom camshaft made up = $$ I'm useing things like standard injectors (270cc) and factory management system (with a airflow adjuster) So I hope to keep the fuel useage down...anyway a load sensitive water injection system should help....when your running water injection you can lean off the fuel mixtures, and if you run out of water, run a line to the ECU's coolant temp sensor to richen up the mixtures, so you don't put a hole through a piston.... Anyway If I get really keen and turn the VL in to a weekend cruiser (its a mildish day to day car) I'll go after market management, T04 injectors, FMIC...yada yada..... Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Only real drama is getting the head welded. (The only thing i cant do myself.) Getting it welded as we speak. What welding? You only need to do some welding if you use a RB20DE/DET head.....and thats not recomended.....Don't you mean on the block? People complain about the Cams around 6000 rpm.....But for a mild street motor do you NEED all that RPM? Anyway, I think my motor is going to be a little diffrent than most.... Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Flashes dash warning light when the determined amount of knock has triggered, Just make up a cct to read a factory knock sensor..... Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Other than that its seems to be a straight bolt up job. Not quite....not quite.....trust me! NOTHING bolts rite up.....Things you don't think of like exhaust manifold clearances on the block....heaps of things.... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

The water gallery near the front VCT feed is wider and only gives about 1mm clamping on the rb30 block. You could either widen the block like twinvl did, or weld the gallery up a few mm on the head to give a better seal. (The better method imho) Plus im welding the VCT feed, if you use a grubscrew it could crack due to different expansion rates of the metals. Im even fitting the RB25DET oil cooler.

I did grubscrew mine, and a bit of sealant....I've used grubscrews in alfa romeo heads with no problems at all....

Where did you plumb your second oil drain in Nizmodore from the head. Did you tee it into the turbo drain or run it into the sump on its own? If you run out of scope with the NA 270cc injectors, you should get the turbo injectors (370cc) and turbo ecu. Should run moderate boost levels like a gem then.

I'll take a pic today......I've only have finished half the drain system.....its a work of art Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I was prob 1 of the first to start building a DET and i still haven't finished.... Not worth it yet! It's still in NA form atm, and the biggest problem i've come across is trying to save some $$$ and use the standard RB30E management, or a timing issue. It just doesn't want to play the game (not enough power and crap idle) so it's been sitting for a few months now waiting for an Autronic which is coming very shortly! And turbos fitted shortly after that. I've had no big problems that weren't expected. The timing belt has been fine aswell as the block bronsing to seal the water gallery to the head. Most of the work has gone into the custom inlet manifold which has made things difficult from an assembly point of view. So far it hasn't cost that much, a quick add up to $2500 inc 2 rb20 turbos and the Rb25de engine.

Quote: Originally Posted by carcrazy Oh found this post related.... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showt...hlight=rb30dett (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=4949&highlight=rb30dett) The topic sounds interesting,however I did disagree with the part about the cams being too mild for an RB30,that's my personal opinion anyway as RB30-ZED & I have advanced the cam timing on the VVT hub which gives the inlet a 6 degree advance in the inlet valve timing,we both run the VVT also. By rights I don't like to touch & modify the Nissan stuff because I am scared I will completely stuff its refinement up (as has happened to some single cam RB30's I have heard about),it runs a little ignition advance which gives it a little more bite around town when plugging around at low revs. I take the SC14 supercharger is the import Toyota unit,personally I would think this would be a waste of time on a twin cam RB30 as it would defeat the purpose of fitting the twin cam head, which in my car starts really kicking in at 3000 RPM (another power band is felt irrespective of which gear is selected,it is the RPM which it is felt at),I heard this unit restricts the flow of even a bog stock 3.8 litre V6. Would be a good idea to fit one to a single cam RB30 for a little more power as it isn't a great top end motor,the SC14 would suit its bottom end to mid range characteristics. The best power option if doing a 3 litre twin cam engine on a budget would be to build an N/A version with the RB25 pistons like RB30-ZED & I have done,even though it doesn't have a turbo on it,it still puts out about the same power as a supercharged ECOTEC V6 (someone in N.Z. has an RB30DE in an R33 Skyline which puts out 126 RWKW or 173 FWKW). As for cooling,my engine usually sits on 1/3 on the temp gauge when cruising,in traffic,etc it will go over 1/2 on hot day (got to only a tad over 1/2 on a 42 degree day,till the viscous fan became locked in,then it maintained itself around 1/2),it however does need an oil cooler (desperately) as when I changed the oil on a 25 degree day I nearly burnt my fingers when I drained the oil out of the sump. Note the single cam motor never ran this hot oilwise,also changing the oil at 5000 kms improves its performance,this may be suggesting the oil is losing its viscousity and not lubricating the parts properly,I have been told oil also has the job of cooling the internal parts (that is the case in a diff at least,I assume the motor will be the same,but in a diff the oil is "not" there to lubricate). Note I use the Penrite HPR10 oil (10W50),which is a good oil,it has good clingeability to parts but I think when it gets to a certain (and young) age in this motor,it ceases to remove the heat from internal parts,the oil doesn't appear to be cooked but the engine has a fair whack more torque than the old one (more like a standard turbo VL),which in itself even without revving the motor out would cause excessive heat to be generated as it is still the same mass & capacity of engine,only with a fair bit more power & torque.

RB30DEVL, great to see your still around, havent seen you post for a while Interesting thing you bring up about the VVT inlet cam gear. I've heard its adjustable, haven't looked how much though, when i stripped it, i just threw it into the box of parts until i re-asemble the top end, after welding and surfacing of the head. I've seen someone reverse the bolts from memory, so you can access it from the front instead of removing the cam gear. Wonder if there is any gains there, or if it will screw up the vvt operation. Would think it would be preety good, but maybe not on a 3L motor. Why did you advance it 6deg?, more power, bottom end response, better fuel economy? If you advanced it how would that effect the factory ecu vvt switch over point? What i was going to do, was dyno the motor with vvt off, then do another dyno with it on, then overlap the graphs, wherever the graphs intercept is where i will switch the vvt function. I should be able to make a switch over circuit, using a cheap tacho type generator to switch the vvt at xxxx rpm points. I suppose the oil would get hotter if the combustion chamber temperatures were hotter, generally meaning significantly more power. Glad im throwing on the det oil cooler then, dunno how good they are though, being a water based cooler. RB30DEVL, does the RB25DE use knock sensing? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER does the RB25DE use knock sensing? The stock RB25DE computer has inputs for the knock sensors, and I got 2 knock sensors with my motor so I'd say it does Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER What i was going to do, was dyno the motor with vvt off, then do another dyno with it on, then overlap the graphs, wherever the graphs intercept is where i will switch the vvt function. I should be able to make a switch over circuit, using a cheap tacho type generator to switch the vvt at xxxx rpm points. Mick, i beleive (90% sure) the RB25 power FC has the ability to alter the vvt switching point.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER ...If it had cams in it that weren't designed for the VCT switchover it would make just as much power, but not meet strict idle emmisions. Im with 87Calais, it was implemented on the RB25 simply for emmission standards. If you put a normal type cam profile in the head, you wouldn't need the VCT function at all. The RB25DET system is really very simple and it can never offer real advantages, because it isn't constantly variable. Like for instance the BA falcon or Alloytech engines are. If they are constantly variable you can boost torque almost everywhere in the rev range. Yes it would make just as much PEAK power, if not more with non-VCT cams, but you will lose midrange torque. Thats great if you drive a 1/4 mile at a time, but for a daily driver midrange torque is what you want. But with VCT you can also have good peak power. I'm sure emissions also play a part in the design of VCT, but in answer to Juzi's original comment, VCT does do something for performance and it is worth thinking about. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Im with 87Calais, it was implemented on the RB25 simply for emmission standards. i disagree, it is the one of the earlier examples of VVT, so obviously it's not going to be as advanced as the VVT systems that are coming out of the factories now. but anyway, it's there on the head in the first place, it's just up to the owner to choose if he's gonna use it or not. -jimmy

One of the top engine builders in NZ has done a RB30DE race motor that makes 380hp on his engine dyno, will get the details soon if anyone wants to know Cheers

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ VLCT One of the top engine builders in NZ has done a RB30DE race motor that makes 380hp on his engine dyno, will get the details soon if anyone wants to know Cheers Good to see you back!

Cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Brent, any details on that motor? Sounds awesome.

will go see engine builder soon

Keep me posted! The idea of a tough N/A still really floats my boat! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

If you want a nice naturally aspirated engine get an NA 2J. Look at the power curve, they have a good kick up top even though there isn't any turbo's. I so wish these things would bolt straight into RB based cars.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ VLCT One of the top engine builders in NZ has done a RB30DE race motor that makes 380hp on his engine dyno, will get the details soon if anyone wants to know Cheers Yes! I would definately like to see details on that motor. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.