Well I don't have any dyno results but I can tell you after I did mine, I could just notice a slight increase in pull over most of the rev range ( only very slight ). But when it came to around 4000-4500rpm, it pulled much better from there on. Basically it gives you that bit extra at the top end, which I think is realy good. Am I happy with it? Yes I am. Do I think its worth the money? Yes I do, especially for a n/a.

kool.... cheers pipebom.. im glad i didnt waste only $80 hahaha... nah.. cheap and effective mod... all i gotta do is friggin fit it and do the timgn and stuff!

Well i decided to have a go at doing this for myself. I still need to get the manafold porting part done but. I'm not 100% sure what model my TB is. I got it out of a fuel injected ZK fairlane. I think its like a 79 model. Either way, pretty old. From what i've been reading, it would get referred to a series 2 XF TB as it has same direction TPS as the VL one, and measures 68mm accross the back. I still don't really understand why a flane plate is required. Its only to taper it into the manafold correct? So why can't you just make it taper in using the bit of meat that is available already on the manafold? Also, with the TPS on the VL is its only purpose to only to say when the butterfly is closed? As far as i can tell from measuring resistances, thats all it does. Can anyone confirm this? Anyhow, here are 2 pictures of what i've done so far. You can see in the second one the amount that is needed to be taken off to taper it in. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

so did you just bolt it straight up?

Quote: Originally Posted by Pastical Also, with the TPS on the VL is its only purpose to only to say when the butterfly is closed? As far as i can tell from measuring resistances, thats all it does. Can anyone confirm this? Yep - Absolutely correct. To set it up, continuity test between terminals 1 and 2 (from the top) - You want it to open the switch (that is, break continuity) about 1 mm from fully closed. If it's set too far from closed, the injectors will shut off too early and you'll feel a distinct power drop-off on coasting throttle - If set too close, she might not drop back to idle at all. If you have to grind a key into the XF TB butterfly shaft (I did), make sure there's ZERO play between the shaft and the TPS, or it'll cause havoc. :-) Also, to answer the question on whether this mod is legal or not, my VL got through a full roadworthy check with cold air induction (through the guard), XF TB, extractors and double-coil rear springs... And the RWC inspector was an A-grade mechanic and mechanical engineer, so he knew what he was looking at.

Yes, i bolted it straight up. I modify the holes on the XF TB so they were closer to the center, and i had to make the heads of the allan key bolts a smaller diameter. I plan to use the TPS that is already on there. All i have to do is swap the top and bottom wires on the wiring connector. Infact, since the third wire (bottom one) seems to do nothing at all, i might just leave it out. Saves having to get the little bugger back in, and possibly getting some sort of signal from the XF TPS. If anyone wants a picture of any part inparticular, just ask. I haven't finished enlarging the intake hole yet but. Its about 75% done. Few hours work using the little dremal just to get that far. I decided to have a break, but never got back to it today. At the moment, it appears the sides should be able to go straight in, but the top and bottom of the TB intake hole will need to be tapered in.

make sure u post som pics up when ur done

maybe write a technical on how its all done and how to do the XF tps..

ok, i'll post some pictures of the intake manafold when i get home since people are still interested. Going to be a little while yet before i get to test it all out on a running motor but. The entire motor is in a rebuild process at the moment. Just about done but. Still need a cam and some extractors and a bit of custom air intake piping before the motor goes in but. and for the bit a few of you probably don't want to hear, its all going into a VK. So i'm gonna have to do all the wiring, and etc, etc... anyhow, back to the point, i'll post some pictures of what i've done when i get home. cheers,

This is what it looks like down the throat of the TB now. I still need to shave a bit more off at the bottom The hole Comparison of the XF tb, and the VL tb and for anyone who cares, my home done port and polish jobbie Ok, well i think thats enough pictures for now. Might write up a technical when i get more time once i'm finished stuffing around with the car. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

jeez thats a HUGE difference aye! it would be great if u could write up a technical for it nudge nudge Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

how do you plan on adapting the vl thottle cable to the xf linkage?

Jeeez Pastical - It looks like you're getting REAL close to the outer wall of the plenum neck there, are you keeping an eye on your wall thickness? For what it's worth, flow inertia will be pushing most of the air into the top of the neck (because of the overall curve of the tubing) so leaving a little more 'meat' in the bottom wont hurt your flow volume... Or so the theory goes. Nice porting work :-)

yeah, i'm keeping a VERY close eye on the wall thickness. Theres only 1 side where there is enough meat for it to go straight in. all the others are angled in. as for the cable, i'll work that one out when its on the car. But from the looks of it, the standard vl cable will connect up to the xf linkage in the exact same way. Just a mater of where the outer part of the throttle cable ends up

Quote: Originally Posted by Pastical yeah, i'm keeping a VERY close eye on the wall thickness. Theres only 1 side where there is enough meat for it to go straight in. all the others are angled in. as for the cable, i'll work that one out when its on the car. But from the looks of it, the standard vl cable will connect up to the xf linkage in the exact same way. Just a mater of where the outer part of the throttle cable ends up Mate, I got my cable shortened at a Brack/clutch place in Brisbane for $3.00. I bought a new T-piece from a motor bike shop for $0.50. All up it cost $3.50. Cheers, Joel.

bargain hahaha $3.50.. thats good... well done to pastical for that info man... made me learn a fair bit... i sent ya a PM about all this stuff as im doing it thie week at an aerodrome where they got alll teh parts needed to make the hard job you did with the file.. hahaha Thanks

file?? bugger that. I used a dremal with a tungstan carbinide bit to cut out the major areas, a stone bit to make it rounder with less bumps, and a sandpaper bit to polish it up.

oh, and also if u did send me a pm beejay, i ain't got it

ok, so the people out there that have done this, what intake piping did you guys use? Surely you didn't just use the standard old one did ya's? I was thinking of getting a bit of piping made up for me, but i put the intake manafold onto the motor today, and realised there isn't much room between the TB and the rocker cover. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

**** ay anyone used just the original manifold on the NA? im just gonna use the old ****ty manifold! Will this be okay with the XF thorttle body? Will it be easily removed for my turbo motor to? Pastical? Oh yeah... dont worry about that PM.... hope ya make up a mad Tech article about what youve done wqhen your finished as youve got all the pics@