Quote: Originally Posted by brett_32i ground your core if you have plastic tanks/rubber mounts. and leroy, ohms is measure of resistance not current. yeah sorry mate its the volts you should be reading, it should read less than .5 of a volt.. my bad what a bulls up here i am passing on my knowledge of the current and possible causes and fixes and i stuff up like that.. sorry for that guys cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by B_T_R here you go heres another forum about the problem.. There is a link in there that explains everything you need to know STRAY CURRENT PROBLEMS HERE (http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=40620&highlight=electrolosis+radiators) cheers Good link, I hate electrolosis wrecked my beautiful polished radiator. Tectaloy xtra cool gold is the best coolant so I have now been told for alloy radiators and other alloy components found on engines.

Quote: Originally Posted by Antho R31 radiators have the hoses on opposite sides whereas VLs have them both on the driver's side which is why they have a baffle in them which tends to rust out. That is infact incorrect, R31's have the inlet and outlet on the same side exactly like the VL, atleast any R31 that is not a pintara. Not sure on pinnies. As for r31 radiator and Vl radiator, R31 is definately a thin core, but does seem to do the job quite well...probably because of what was said earlier about aluminium cores. VL radiators are double bypass as far as I know, which ineffect makes up for less surface area but I would imagine might be slightly better on the cooling front, particularly running a turbo. R31's are only a single pass, and flow from top to bottom unlike the VL rad which is side to side... One other point to make is that the R31 certainly has more air flow through the front than the VL which could be a problem when you flying around the track redlining all day... Their would be marginal gains between the 2 maybe? Someone else might be able to comment on that. If an R31 radiator could be modified to be a double bypass core, that could certainly be an option.. Can this be done? Id personally be interested to know. Maybe a custom 3 core is the best route to take.

Here is the radiator I am using, its a kit that came out of Oz somewhere, the local race radiator shop brought it in and welded it up. I have a lot of heat in my engine bay during 25 lap races and it cools O.K, also I have removed the panel infront of the wipermotor to allow air to exit out of the black vent in the bonnet. I have installed alloy vents at the rear of the inner front guards. I takes a good radiator to do the job as I have an intercooler and oil cooler in front of the radiator. the number of cores doesnt mean much, design / efficiency is more important I use Redline "waterwetter" as coolant, its awesome, way better cooling than Glycol based coolants

thanks for that HSXSUX I have looked at your engine bay 10 times and did not notice that missing panel! What does your temp does your car sit on after 25laps?

I'm sort of looking for something temparary, just use for a few years and see where i'm at then. As I'm only doing 4 lap sprint races ATM the temp is always on high at the finish but only really struggles on on hot days. Where i should be spending some real money on a race item, i don't need 1 yet but i don't want to fit another stock item, just want to try something different and alloy cos i know what a stock 1 is like. A r31 item might be the go cos i should beable to find 1 nice and cheap! No matter if it's worse then.

Hot days 25th lap = 99 - 103 C Cool days 25th lap = 95 - 97 C Heat generated is proportional to HP the motor is making, its quite a bit cooler at 17 - 18 psi over the normal 25 - 26 psi I'm hoping my new Walkie front bar and some alloy sheet will help a bit too