also got the bracket for the seat ready, and the seat is ready to go in, the bracket is now just getting shotblasted and powdercoated. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

how hard are the seats to put into a VL? it looks as though you have made some custom bracket for the Vl rails. Woiuld need engineering to be legal.

yeah, we stuck with the vl rails because VT rails are flat and as you would know, there is a muffler under the right hand side of the floor in a vl (passenger side). We made a 50ml spacer from RHS and a bit of welding and other bits, and she fits fine now. My dad is an engineer and will be able to do a report and mod plate for them also.

Looks good. The diff should look great when it's in.

Got the brackets powdercoated and finally got the passenger seat in. Pulled the driver seat in and looks like we'll be able to stick with the VT rails for that side. It should be in next weekend hopefully. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what year is the wagon? don't vt seats bolt straight into series 2 vl's? is 350 and incredible deal for the seats or is it average??

awesome wagon dude, interior looks immaculate!

don't know if its a good price for the seats or not, but i liked them. This is a series 1 vl, it involved a lot of thinking to get it in.

so with series 2 would they just bolt straight in? no modifications?

GO the wagon. Lokks sweet man.

got the driver seat in and the electronic adjust working. looks and feels much better. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I was sceptical about how the grey VT seats would look with the red interior but it looks awesome man. Makes me want to ditch my grey berlina seats for something more modern!

so mate what was needed to fit the drivers side set and hook up the elec controls???? cheers.. MaRdO

mate that looks spectacular, the grey actually works (i think its the bash plates that bring it togetha). Well done.

Awesome mate..How much did everything end up setting you back? Betcha that's more comfy than the 17 year old VL seats? :P

All we did on the driver seat was weld a piece of flat 40*8 350 long I think, to the VT rails... Rather than screwing into the floor how they were, we drilled out the holes and welded the screws into the flat bar on the rail that line up with the holes. So the seat just drops into the original holes with nylocs below. The wiring was just as simple as sending the red wire to a power source and the black wire to an earth from the seat coupler. This photo is of the bars we welded to the bottom of the seat. The seats were $350 and everything else was free. My dad owns a metal fab shop so it was just a matter of finding some time to cut the steel and drill all the parts. Then it just took a weekend per seat to put in. And definitely more comfy than the soft seats that were in there.

thanks.. i hope to do this soon..

That's fantastic man, well done with that. And it's good to see you're paying attention to detail with that diff as well, that looked spectacular after you sprayed it up. Was the diff a big conversion job? I'd like disc brake rear and a slippy too if possible

Havn't put the diff in yet, hoping to do it this weekend or next weekend. Will let you know how it goes when its done. The local brake shop said the master cylinder doesn't need to be changed, but there is some sort of valve that needs to be removed from the current master cylinder.

We got the diff in yesterday and today, luckily most was done yesterday and only had to attach the hand brake cable, put oil in the diff, and bleed the brakes. It was quite a simple job to change the diff over. Just a matter of getting the wheels off, springs and shocks out, undoing the panhard rod, undoing the bolts from the diff to body, and the ones from the thing the spring sits in to the body. The sway bar must also be unbolted from the body. The hand brake cable goes over the exhaust so you must undo one end of that to pull it through. Must also remove the bolts from diff to drive shaft, and of course must remove the brake hose from diff to body. The only thing that you need to keep from the original diff is the panhard rod, the sway bar, and the things the spring sits in. I dont think i've missed anything. here are some pics anyway... Dirty old drum rear: The hole where the diff was: Old diff again: New Diff: Almost in: Underneath the car of the new diff: Sitting with her new friends koni and king: The beautiful Queensland weather, great for working on the car: All together back on the road: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.