yeh, it should work wit the car off if you're measuring resistance, unless it's a voltage depdent resistor that need voltage to create resistance, that would explain how you can alter the mixture by changing the voltage too. i'll giv it a shot next time i get the car in the garage wit a bit of spare time, thanx 4 ur help everyone, especially scary for explaining it properly and fully, i'll post up my results.

i was told the higher the resistance the more fuel it puts through, and the opposite for lower resistance obviously, i was also told that 320 ran gr8 on a vl wit sum basic intake modz and a zorst, i will test out this number, 87calais, scary, would b gr8 if youse tried this one out too and gave results, just so we can see how different vls wil run wit 320 resistance. btw mods (barely modified, i still tel people it's stock, lol): cai k&n panel 17deg adv timing

yeh ill give it a go... im just using up the tank of fuel first on my first adjustment. It was originally at 180ohms so i adjusted it to 380. I have genie extractors, manual, computer upgrade, port and polished head, rebuilt engine 60000k's ago, new spark plugs and leads, CAI and pod filter. However, i havent checked my timing and i plan to do that on the weekend. I was thinking of doing the same juzi and going 17deg advanced. On that, i would still feel comfortable running unleaded, instead of premium. Dam fuel prices! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yeh, im running 17deg unleaded, no probs at all, onli had the slightest ping every now and then at 20, might go 20 wit premium and c if dat workz, jus so i know wot it can do. thanx bro 4 joining in, i betta get a multimeter now so i can do it, lol

just updating - previous to 'tuning' my AFM (i.e. when it was at 180ohms), i was getting consistent 440km's per tank. Now, my first tank of fuel after adjusting the AFM to 380ohms has reached 520km's! Thats an increase of 80km's per tank! My Air :fuel meter isnt too happy though, it usually hangs around the 19.0:1 ratio :-/ All these results were based on consistent highway driving. Since i do a lot of highway driving, i might increase it to 400ohms and see how i go next week ;-) Ill take down what the Air:fuel ratio gauge tells me aswell. Its a new gauge and might need adjusting itself.

Quote: Originally Posted by darkhalf heres some info i put together on AFM let me know if anything is wrong! http://darkhalf.r31skylineclub.com/afm/ and this page has the table which shows you the A/F ratios when the ECU is not in closed loop http://darkhalf.r31skylineclub.com/nisemu/ turning the screw changes the base A/F ratios in this table if you turn the screw whilst in _closed_ loop you will still see the lights flash together becuase ECU maintaining stoich ratio. if you do it in _open_ loop as per the manual you should get it flashing correctly then and no .. the software isn't ready yet Why does the manual say to disconnect the TPS and the AAV (or whatever it is called) whilst checking the leds?

that is to keep it out of closed loop the software will allow you to retune the stock ecu by plugging in an emulator (and hopefully maptracer, monitor etc later) so ppl wont need to spend $$$ to do the same thing on aftermarket Quote: Originally Posted by spiritfc Why does the manual say to disconnect the TPS and the AAV (or whatever it is called) whilst checking the leds?

hate to sound like a bit of an idiot, but wheres the screw to adjust the ohms? i connected the voltometer thing to 1-6, read 388 on my calais, but on my lil bros vl it read 220, what do i adjust to fix it, theres a round bit that sticks out next to it, but it doesnt seem to move

their is plug in the end of that round bit that sticks out get somthing and get it out and their is a screw in there to adust..

Quote: Originally Posted by spiritfc BTW I have seen people on here saying they only get 200-300kmp/h to a tank. I get 600-650kmp/h to a tank that's a VL Turbo too. All I do is check/adjust the idle, timing and mixtures once a month, plus I change the oil, plugs and leads at the suggested intervals. that is astronomical economy, i only get 400 to 450 km per tank on a n/a 5sp 3ltr!

I can get 400km on a tank i think thats good even if it is 100L tank you pay for the power no fuel=no power..

that is astronomical economy, i only get 400 to 450 km per tank on a n/a 5sp 3ltr!????what??im gettin 525 plus with the setting i ahve at the moment,after the tunr/dyno im hoping to c if the figure changes

any standard na should b getting around 600 when driven properly (although i dont drive that calmly and still get 600's, lol)

Quote: Originally Posted by turboryan that is astronomical economy, i only get 400 to 450 km per tank on a n/a 5sp 3ltr! same here, it stays the same if i drive aggressively or not

Was just wondering, does anybody know what my ECu should be set to? i mean the screw? how many turns? im doing this AFM thing this weekend so i'll tell ya all how it goes

ecu? ur supposed to adjust the screw on your afm, its got a plastic cover u hav 2 break to get to it. the ecu screw is for your idle speed