i swear by that stuff darkstar! Hope it helps What was wrong sirgeo hehehehehe

castrol multitrax....'nuff said......

It has made it 1/2 as quite, now on the highway you cant hear it as well over the road noise!

So in the end.. What am I getting I've gotta get some to go in.. how much am I looking at here. I'm assuming if I get the 25% mix with the normal stuff I'll be looking at a bit of cash. How much for the redline oil? And deceptv .. what about yours.. how much? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Redline is around $20 - $25 per Quart. but remember you dont need much for a g-box or diff. Its regarded as the best gear oil avaliable.

Thanks champ, will grab some later this arvo or tomorrow.. Not much point filling the box up until the seal is fixed. Cheers.

Well I couldn't find anything at all, there was no extra light penrite.. no redline oil.. absolutely nothing..so for my last effort I went to supercheap and they had penrite light... or valvoline, you know what i mean.. 75/90.. so i grabbed that. Now I just need to fix the seal and tell ya's how it goes.

HSVSUX, Redline do make some great stuff. Ive bought some redline oil for cars i regularly service. REDLINE MTL apparently is the stuff for Soarer 5spds. its a 75w80. Wold you go the Shockproof Lightweight gear oil or the MTL? Im planning on buying it for a soarer soon.

If its purely a streeter, use the 75w80 if its going to get a hard time, use the shockproof, it eliminates the metal to metal contact and can save some big repair bills. My bro uses the 75w80 in his club race VLT with an R33 5 speed in it, goes very well makes the box a heap better to use, we will be changing that to light shock soon though coz hes starting to try to flat shift the poor thing Use the heavey shock for diffs, when you drain it there wont be any metal in the oil, its bloody good and will drop diff temps by heaps too.

Bex: you wont find Redline at the corner store......

yeah I gathered, I even have trouble finding alot of high quality gear here unless I order it in.

I tried to get the Penrite stuff for my MF5 box but couldn't find it. Ended up with a German branded stuff called FUCHS ($47 for 5 litres), it's a 75/90 grade oil and is said to be very good. I'm still having problems going from 1st to 2nd, then 3rd. Shifts are hard, unless you wait about 2 seconds then it goes in alright, things improve a bit once it's warmed up. I've also found my clutch pedal goes right to the floor and you need to use some decent pressure when changing or you get a slight grind of the gears, nothing too bad, but you feel and hear it, probably more of a grabbing type of feeling, as if the gate isn't fully open to allow the stick to go into the next gear. I'm going to remove and strip the slave and clean it up then refit it and do a decent bleed, maybe even adjust the pedal if it will help at all, currently it sits a little higher than the brake pedal. I think I'll drain the box again too and try and get some Penrite oil, if that doesn't help I'll drain a bit and add some auto fluid. If that doesn't work I'll drive like grandad and live with it I guess. Anything I should try that may help? I know the box was rebuilt around 3 years ago and had a heavy duty clutch fitted. Should it still be in good nick? How often does the clutch need replacing? I'm confident the car was looked after, it has had a fair amount of money thrown at it.

Well a clutch life can be a month to many years depending on how you drive, and to be honest it'd be fairly crazy to take a guess at its condition from its age. If you notice it slipping under load, or even during high rpm changes then its up to you to wait for it to get worse and worse, or flick it out the window now. My old old clutch was starting to slip a little, but I didn't bother getting rid of it until the car nearly didn't move anymore..Thought I'd milk it for as much as I could, as they aren't really cheap.

Just remember, if you drive with a slipping clutch you will bugger the flywheel very fast (due to heat) and either need it machined or replaced altogether. To test the clutch, go up a steep hill at around 1800-2400rpm in say 4th gear to load it up a bit, from a low throttle opening, go full WOT and see if it slips, i.e, RPM will flare but car doesn't accelerate. Mick

Thanks guys, I'll try the hill thing, but I'm quite sure it's not slipping. I've done a few high rev gear chnages and all seems ok there.

If it is grabbing on gear changes it may be a couple of things. Wrong Gearbox Oil (Factory lubricant is SAE 80W) ****ed Syncros (Unlikely as you said its been fully rebuilt, or has it?) Clutch Not Releasing Fully (Maybe try to re-bleed it if in doubt.) Mick

I used 75/90 oil, so it should be ok. If you give it a second before trying to engage a gear it goes in fine, so from what I can gather talking to others the syncro's should be alright. I am going to bleed the clutch when I get around to it. If I push hard enough on the pedal, even when it's right to the floor, it seems to shift better, and will do it a bit quicker if you try. So I' mthinking it's an adjustment thing with the clutch not quite fully disengageing, I hope I'm right.

have you checked to see if your slave cylinder is leaking? mine has the exact same problem and i rebuilt the slave cylinder and it has been fine ever since

I have noticed it's a bit wet so looks to have a small leak. The level in the reservoir doesn't look to have changed much if at all. What is required for a rebuild and what's the damage? I'm thinking that's what it needs, was going to remove and strip it, clean it all up etc, do I need to actually replae any components? Cheers.

Had a good loo kat it the other day whilst trying to find the reverse switch and find out what's wrong with it. The slave itself isn't leaking but I noticed some fluid coming from the rubber boot that surrounds the actuator for the clutch, the arm thing the slave pushrod pushes on the operate the clutch. I have a few weeks off work now so will get onto it, chase a rebuild kit, the $3 one, remove and clean the master and hyd line to the slave, then bleed it real good. If there's no improvement I'll drain some gear oil and put some DexronII in, sounds like another option as the problem is only when going into 2 and 3 and when going back to 2, not so much grinding, just grabbing a bit. If I go to Neutral and wait a econd or two then try it goes in pretty easy. Quick shifts are out, so that makes pulling into heavy traffic a pain as I can't get going as quick as I normally would if the box was 100%. Hopefully one of the fixes will work.