YLDPSI<-------- stop asking so many questions, you act as though you know everything! yet to me it looks like you know absolutly nothing....
stop making these stupid claims about ur friends 500kw car when you dont even know what tubbing is!! i cant handle ur ignorance any longer!! SirGeo please lock this thread aswell, you seem to be on the ball today!!!!!!
before deciding on tubbing or mini tubbing, work out what you want to do with the rear end. ie. 9 inch diff, full spool, full floating axels and a 4 link suspension setup. Then work out what size rubber you want/need to run and whether you'll require tubbing, mini tubbing or major chassis modifications for it. My advice, find a good engineer with drag racing experience.
This could turn informative if people stop starting arguments... alright we've all read YLDPSI's past threads, we know what he said.
Let it go.
back on topic.
I couldn't be stuffed sorting the info from the garbage in this thread, so heres a little info.
Mini tubbing is cutting all sheet metal and not touching the chassis rails. ie less to engineer
Full tubbing is cutting away EVERYTHING needed to make big mofo wheels and tyres fit. Oh yeah, and your diff is about two feet wide.
I've done it before to a mates HQ ute. It was only mini tubbed a couple of centimetres but it was enough for him to fit 305's with ease.
For minitubs you dont have to have a shortened diff. All you really need is to have the your drag rims widened toward the centre of the car.
But to have tubs and then "untub" for the street is an absolute joke. It would be easier to remove the running gear and refit it to another "street car".
More to the point, why the F#ck would you want a car that has "500rwkw" on the street. My car at the moment is good for mid-high 12's and that's more than enough for the street, believe me.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
