Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.
15-07-03, 19:58 GMT+10#21 Metal kings will eat ya discs like a bitch, get bendix standard before them
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19-07-03, 18:46 GMT+10#22 DBA have a website with heaps of info. everything you need to know, except no prices
the site is www.dba.com.au
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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19-07-03, 19:07 GMT+10#23 So if your changing your front discs you hav to change bearings why is that? And is that $60 for a pair or just 1 set?
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19-07-03, 21:42 GMT+10#25 Go to www.brakestop.com.au .I got my Ultimates from them and they were $40 cheaper than any shop I went to. And they delivered them to my front door for $12.Their site has prices
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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19-07-03, 22:07 GMT+10#26 Brake fade is mainly due to the gasses created when on the pedal hard, it pushes pads away from disc, thats why you get off em and back on and it seems better......heat is also a killer, but the gasses are the main reason.....the slots and cross drills get around that problem.......but cross drilled ones will crack much sooner than plain slotted... Good brake fluid is always a must, i change mine every time i do coolant changes
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20-07-03, 09:22 GMT+10#27 Sorry Calais Turbo, im mechanically incompatent. ops:
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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20-07-03, 16:46 GMT+10#28 You're meant to do brake flushes every 2 years, and coolant every 2.5 with holdens
Aero25: The bearing is a roller type (which tend to wear quicker than others anyway), and where is sits, its right behind the disc, which gets extremely hot. Usually, if the bearing is in ok condition, you just re-pack it with grease, and go from there
Does that make sence?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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20-07-03, 17:05 GMT+10#29 how do you know when a bearing is worn? (apart from noise)
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20-07-03, 20:04 GMT+10#30 the surface of the rollers is usually pitted and looks rough.
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20-07-03, 21:46 GMT+10#31 The rollers have shiney spots on them
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20-07-03, 21:48 GMT+10#32 Oh ok thanks for the info, im wanting to change my discs myslf aswell but i thought id better asked to be safe. This is all new to me.
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20-07-03, 21:56 GMT+10#33 There's nothing hard about changing discs! U just unbolt the caliper (2x19mm bolts at the back), and slide the disc off.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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21-07-03, 07:55 GMT+10#34 what about the cotter pin and nut holding the hub to the spindle guys!!
:roll: :roll:
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21-07-03, 12:18 GMT+10#35 Make sure all parts are spotless before re installing..........
I guess they forgot about that one HSVSUX
Dont overtighten wheel bearings, or you will be changing them again in a week
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21-07-03, 19:27 GMT+10#36 No one actually said how to change a bearing now did they?
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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21-07-03, 19:40 GMT+10#37 hey, i just got some cross drilled rotors and some of the holes go through the veins, but not all. Is that bad???!?!?!?!?
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21-07-03, 20:40 GMT+10#38 Quote:
No one actually said how to change a bearing now did they?
well, to remove the disc................u need to undo these as well.............
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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27-07-03, 15:13 GMT+10#39 Just tried to check that web site out and it doesn't work for me, the error comes up as if the page doesn't exist.
Can you still get into that site CoastVL?
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28-07-03, 08:43 GMT+10#40 tempest115, yep that is bad, it will compromise the structural integrity of the disc. Are they a new item with the holes drilled when it was manufactured or did some one just drill the holes into a stock disc? The holes should not go thru the veins in between the disc walls but to the side of the veins.
Try a gold DBA disc, they are good gear.
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