Gents, For the people running auto ECU on their manual conversion.......did you disconnect the auto control unit or did you leave it plugged in also. Regards, Joel.

Disconnect it

Some place in Tassie do 5 spd conversions, i rang them to ask how much and the bloke said 2 grand all up from flywheel to tailshaft installed. I just laughed and hung up! $2000??? i mean really.

Quote: Originally Posted by joel Gents, For the people running auto ECU on their manual conversion.......did you disconnect the auto control unit or did you leave it plugged in also. Regards, Joel. I ran mine for months with it connected. but i disconnected it more recently, didn't notice a difference, except for weight reduction when i removed it Quote: Originally Posted by tempest115 how are you running 33 timing and not pinging? did you have to change the mixture adjustment? And I paid $1200 for a turbo box and conversion kit (and starter motor). clutch was buggered though. came with the centre console too. I have no idea, it just doesn't Natho thinks i may have retarded cam timing, havn't got the motivation to check it Finding those center console pieces is a challenge! :? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I should really get around to disconnecting the auto comp, just too lazy. does it really matter?

I ran an auto ECU on my last VL which I did a manual conversion to and I had no problems. As for blowing away a Holden VN V6 with even a VL manual something has to be incredibly wrong with the V6 or it still has a pee shooter exhaust system fitted as my brothers "worn out" auto VN at the time was still quicker than my 5 speed VL,both ran Shell optimax,both had sports exhaust systems and cold air intakes fitted but when I was giving the VL a bit the VN was only dawdling along and still kept away from my VL,the VN is now fully rebuilt with a set of Pacemaker headers and Supra 5 speed and now a VX ECOTEC V6 auto let alone a VL 5 speed is left behind. As far as twin cam head swaps go the standard RB30 pistons limit the power to 150kw due to its lower compression ratio,I have used the Rb25 pistons in an Rb30 which is estimated to achieve 187 kw with a 10.5:1 compression ratio as opposed to the 8.3:1 ratio,but power is limited to 187 kw due to the stock Rb25 ECU,power out of one of these has been known to be as high as over 220 kw with a 6 butterfly setup and aftermaket ECU but I think they used a GTR cylinder head,this was done in Japan.

where did you find the details of the dohc conversion and the % increases and stuff, i am interested in a n/a with dohc now =) heh

or has anyone done this conversion recently and have details on exactly what needs to be done.. do any oil tracks need to be cut in different places or anything?

Quote: Originally Posted by DVS 86 Well a twin cam head swap adds around 30% more HP over a n/a OHC. Now 30% of the factory 114kw is 34.2kw. So that rounds in at 148.2kw in theory as every car is different. I would bevery interested to see just how well a acr with this swap did against a standard VLT. Mind you the n/a would have to be standard as well for it to be fair.. Well, it wouldn't be standard with a twin cam head now would it. And Id say to get the most out of the head the ECU would have to be aftermarket as well. A standard VLT is only 150Kw anyway, then that means it all comes down to driver ability. Quote: Originally Posted by DVS 86 Having siad that you wont "blow" a VLT away as you put it. I dont think there would be much in it at all. Even with mods to the n/a, all a VLT would have to do is turn up the boost and away they go. That depends if they have a boost controller..and where it is mounted (If its under the bonnet you obviously have to pull up) Besides isnt this the non turbo discussion area? Lots of people might be after turboless power...I'm not but like to offer ideas to those who are interested.

Quote: As for blowing away a Holden VN V6 with even a VL manual something has to be incredibly wrong with the V6 or it still has a pee shooter exhaust system fitted as my brothers "worn out" auto VN at the time was still quicker than my 5 speed VL man, i used to KILL vn's with my auto vl, both off the line and cruising. the only one's i couldn't beat (apart frmo 8's) was a friends sv3800.. It used to kill me down low, but on the freeway I could pull it down easy. With the manual there's no point in trying to race them.

I agree my 5 speed VL is yet to loose to a v6 (pre vt). I've had a vew VN drivers think they can beat me, and smirk at me. They get a surprise when i'm a car length in front at the end of 1st gear, and 1 1/2 car lenghs in front at the end of 2nd. I've seen some people on Street commodores forum mention their 5speed V6 VN's have 96rwkw. The same as my VL. Autos would have less im sure. Same power, less weight, it would be prity hard to lose Although when my car was an auto, i couldn't keep up with a VN but my auto was shagged .. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

you guys who are talking about beating these pre-vt v6's.. do you guys have autos or manuals?... i thought the vl autos felt less powerful than the manual vl's?

Quote: Originally Posted by Boostedcal Quote: Originally Posted by DVS 86 Well a twin cam head swap adds around 30% more HP over a n/a OHC. Now 30% of the factory 114kw is 34.2kw. So that rounds in at 148.2kw in theory as every car is different. I would bevery interested to see just how well a acr with this swap did against a standard VLT. Mind you the n/a would have to be standard as well for it to be fair.. Well, it wouldn't be standard with a twin cam head now would it. And Id say to get the most out of the head the ECU would have to be aftermarket as well. A standard VLT is only 150Kw anyway, then that means it all comes down to driver ability. My point was that on paper for the two cars to be equal the n/a couldnt have an bigger exhaust or filter. Those power figures were based on a head swap only with everything else factory OE. Quote: Originally Posted by Boostedcal Quote: Originally Posted by DVS 86 Having siad that you wont "blow" a VLT away as you put it. I dont think there would be much in it at all. Even with mods to the n/a, all a VLT would have to do is turn up the boost and away they go. That depends if they have a boost controller..and where it is mounted (If its under the bonnet you obviously have to pull up) Besides isnt this the non turbo discussion area? Lots of people might be after turboless power...I'm not but like to offer ideas to those who are interested. Ok lets get really nitty gritty technical shall we? I think it would be fair to say that around 90%+ of all VLT's in the country are not standard anymore. Most do have boost controllers therefore they aren't running standard boost. You said that with this head swap that a n/a would blow a VLT away: Quote: Originally Posted by Boostedcal when u blow a VLT away, without spooling they will be left wondering........whatta***?????? You did write that didnt you? looks to me like you did. I was simply saying that you wont blow them away unless your idea of a thumping is half a car length in a race. Oh and about being the non-turbo section. Well you opened the door to my point on that one. I was simply replying to a topic you brought up. Quote: Originally Posted by Boostedcal why not a twin cam head? I was talkin t my mate the other day, he is after power, but no turbo insurance prices........nobody will know its there.........when u blow a VLT away, without spooling they will be left wondering........whatta***?????? Having said all that, this is a good little coversion to do. Ive got no problem with people seeking more HP no matter what they drive (excels non-withstanding ). BoZZa17 - Do a search of this site, its been covered plenty of times. I got the figures from Zoom Magazine but like I said, all the figures and what to do, parts you'll need etc. have been covered here before. cheers. 8) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

thanx man

BoZZa17 wrote Quote: you guys who are talking about beating these pre-vt v6's.. do you guys have autos or manuals?... i thought the vl autos felt less powerful than the manual vl's? My auto used to beat vn and vp, now with the 5spd i take out vs as well... although that is really close race. If they had exhust and extractors I'd go down i think.

yeah, my parents have an auto vs and i've got the 5spd vl and i think it'd be pretty easy

Yeah G'day boys, i got my full conversion for a mere $500 with everything, inc. ME5 box tail-shaft pedal box ECU interrior insert Clutch pressure plate slave cylinder etc. from a private ad, cost me a week to install only because i done everything in my motor and to my car whilst i had the motor out (took it out because i wanted to give my car a full service and clean the engine bay)... clutch was a little bit shoddy at first, but extended the push-rod, and it was fine. My car runs perfect with the manual or Auto ECU... I WOULD RECOMEND THIS CONVERSION TO ANYONE!!! My 5-spd only lasted maybe 5 months of thrashing, before costing me $650 for a rebuild (comercial gearboxes in melton, they replace absoloutly everything and are legends). I also recently picked up a Clutch kit, with clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on e-bay, brand new for $120... so my car is going better than ever before... Expect your car to feel like new, with the added "power" you feel and the unbelievable experience that is having a manual... I WOULD STRONGLY CONSIDER LOOKING INTO A TURBO 5-Spd IF YOU FLOG YOUR CAR, THEY WON'T HOLD UP TO IT FOR EVER... could end up more expensive in the long run if you don't...

yeah, I say go the mx7 too.. but lots more $$$$. You are lucky to find a mx7 box for $700 little lone getting the whole conversion kit and a starter motor...

i just completed the conversion and i am running my auto computer atm. it runs fine and accelerates hard. but on gear changes it has a loud backfire at full throttle. i will put the manual comp in and compare acceleration, full economy etc.

The car shouldn't backfire on gearchange even when running the auto computer. I've done the conversion running the auto unit,in fact I have an auto unit running in my current VL no worries,it's a factory manual whereas my last one was a factory auto. Somethings a miss there like its running too lean,is is spitting back through the intake or exhaust?,if it's doing it through the intake then you may have a maladjusted TPS,go through everything and make sure nothing was mucked up while you did the conversion. If it's through the exhaust it could be anything from a lean fuel mix,ignition problem or burnt exhaust valve.