The water heated plenum chamber is there for a reason. If it wasn't needed then they wouldn't have designed the engine with it as it costs extra money to make.

You're right, the coolant goes thorough the intake so the throttle butterfly does not freeze and stick. I'll let you know the next time it gets that cold in brisbane Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I have a mate who chucked in the spanners to go mobile thread repairing around Sydney - Making an absolute killing, too - His advise it to gently heat the material around the bolt with an LPG torch and spray it with CRC, then drill out the screw with a left-hand-twist drillbit (cooled in water, not lubed with turps). If that doesn't work, try VERY light pressure with an 'Easy-out', you don't want to snap the bugger in the bolt... I've also had some success with drilling them out and tapping a hex (Allen) key into the hole (works well on mild steel bolts, not so well on high-tensile or stainless) or tapping the tip of a screwdriver around the outer edge of the bolt in the direction of twist. :-)

Easy outs are your friend!

I remember being told of some guy who after cracking a head on his VL, rigged up extra hosing so that coolant flowed over top of the motor, and at the highest point he had a valve that was set to open at the same pressure as the rad. cap usually is (and replaced the rad cap with a much higher rated one). so instead of overflowing from the radiator it overflowed from this hose which was always the highest point on the motor, and it automatically bled itself this is s/h info but it makes sense in my mind if no-one else's Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

On one of the cars I have here, the previous owner had an aftermarket / custom radiator chamber made that bolted beside the plenum and had hoses from both bleeder points. All I need to do is fill the top chamber and then let it run through, and there is no worry about air being trapped. When I get the time and money I will be doing the same to my second VL which both the bleeder bolts have snapped off..

Hey guys, I just had one snap on me but I have a 100% sure way to get the bolt out of the plenum bleed vavle. You drill a small hole in the centre of the bolt about 3 to 5mm deep, then grab a tiny flat head screw driver and hammer it gently into the drilled hole so it embeds into it. Then simply screw it out. WORKED FOR ME! If anyone needs pics just post me. thanks

I was told that filling the radiator using a coke bottle with the bottom cut out of it, to raise the highest point of coolant to the radiator filler point works just as well for bleeding the system. Done it a few times now and never seemed to have an issue at all with it. As for snapped bolts, easy outs, makes the job so much easier Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah you gotta get a header tank for the cooling system, ive got one and havent had a problem since. AVO in Cheltnham make them. Good investment.

my mate snapped his and he was wondering y he had a blown head gasket lol