Whats the cost like on a new clutch fan? Is it a job you can do yourself? or a mechanic type of work?

its pretty easy to do yourself and they cost about $200 new.

Hi everyone, I own a VL Turbo!! :mrgreen: , mine temp readinging never reaches the 2 bar, never been half way on the dash. I have a big front mount cooler too. On really hot days it almost reaches the second bar and thats it. Advice: Flush out your coolant, put new coolant in. Then check your temp sensor (The yellow one with the black wire on it ). Wriggle it a bit. If ya temp goes close to red you will probably need to replace this sensor, they are around $30-$40 depending on where you get them. Burson is the best as they have good prices and their stuff is pretty close to genuine stuff.

Where does one find this Burson?

Ive just ordered a new fan clutch from Autopro for $130.00. I should recieve it by Thursday, and install it on the weekend. Hope this sloves my overheating problem. Ill keep you guys posted.

Recieved fan clutch today! Its a Davies Craig fan clutch. Are these any good.?

Well I put on the new fan clutch yesterday but it made no difference. So I decided to check and flush out the radiator again. To cut a long story short, the top half of the radiator was blocked up and when I touched this part of the core it just broke away (I could stick my finger straight through it! 8O) Anyway Ive bought a new 3 core radiator. The old radiator was only a 2 core so I thought I might as well get the better 3 core one to replace it. Also something new I found out (this may interest you guys as well) The bloke at the radiator place told me that all VL's with air conditioning should have the 3 core radiator. 8)

When I bought the VL it had a sticker on the Radiator saying it had a Recore done in 2000, the Air Con has also been Retrofitted to use the new Gas system. Is there any way to tell how many Cores your Radiator has from the outside? :roll:

Replaced radiator yesterday and "Problem Solved" I went for a drive and the temp gauge only went to the second mark. Kylie, Its easier to see to see the core with the radiator out. But you may be able to see the radiator core if you get a torch and shine it on the engine fan side of the radiator. You should be able to see within the radiator, horizontal bars running across the radiator. If there are 2 bars its a 2 core if 3 bars then its a 3 core. And The 3 core radiator is wider that the 2 core. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

How did you go with your coolant temp sensor. Kylie

Sorry I haven't even looked at doing that yet... :roll: I wish that was my biggest problem at the moment. I've really put myself in over my head with this rear end restoration... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Kylie I've really put myself in over my head with this rear end restoration... What exactly are you doing, if you dont mind me asking. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Firstly, I was going to drop the Fuel Tank and replace all the Return Lines Etc, then I decided to replace the Pumps too, then I found rust in the Boot Floor, so I decided to take that back, but nooooooo, there was sticky black Tar crap put there by someone a long time ago... :x So that took a while to remove. After that I decided to completely strip the Boot of the car and respray the whole thing, then I decided to take the Rear Bumper off, only to find some more nice holes in some rather convenient places... 8O And I could go on and its just such a big mess I feel like selling it seriously... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah my VL was like that too. Someone sprayed this rough black looking stuff underneath the boot and fuel tank. It was a nightmare to get off. :x Ive got it all off now, but now I have to get the fuel tank resprayed black. They also sprayed this orange / yellow coloured rust proofing stuff in the boot and engine bay and it looks awful. Ive removed it all from the engine bay with undiluted degreaser and a pressure washer. But im yet to clean it out of the boot. Just think of it this way, It may be a bugger of a job now but itll be well worth it when you finish it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah, that stuff is called Fish Oil, it was in my Boot as well, around the Eves... :? Its supposed to dry eventually but this stuff must have been cheap because it was all tacky... Nice... :roll: Anyway, my main problem is in the Boot, not much around the Front, but if that Oil stuff is in the Doors I'll scream! Might be buying a Digital Camera soon, make my own guide to VL Rust Repair! Heh Heh Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

On my VL, The Fish oil has been sprayed inside the boot on the quarter panels, and it has stayed tacky. Its terrible stuff, and it looks bad. :evil: I dont know how Im going to remove it yet. It might not have been too bad if whoever done it only used it sparingly. Did you also check under the bootlid seal? I took mine off for a look, and there was a little bit of rust around the edge where the seal presses down on. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah, I found out about the Boot Seal when I first got the car after washing it and finding a Boot full of water... Got to that straight away and rebuilt the parts that were missing and replaced the Seal and it hasn't leaked since even in the most heavy rain... With the Fish Oil, the Best way I found to remove it was to scrape off as much as I could with a Scraper, and then use SuperGlow (Paint Thinner) or something like Prepwash or Degreaser and a rag... :? Make sure you take a break every now and then and have some good ventilation though! 8O Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I have the same issue, I think its more the faulty gauge in my dash, car doesn't seem t be hot at all. The gauge is a heat element blade type and can become inaccurate..