Quote:
Originally Posted by turboluke
Ive heard that there are ways to clean the sensor for better clarity, cant remember exactlty but think it involved dipping it in some kind of cleaner, or may have been petrol :? anyone know?
Turboluke,
You can clean the exterior of the sensor, but the internal ceramic rod that get fouled up is beyond cleaning after about 80,000km or so... it just dies and goes to heaven. Not all of them but thats the usual time they get replaced. Dipping it in petrol would be like running an extrememly rich mixture, which will kill the O2 sensor straight away, i wouldnt reccomend that :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by SIK VL
No theres a plug. Plug in/ plug out. VLGRUNT, theres actually a cable tie on my temp sensor, so ill get it looked at. Yeah i cant be stuffed heating up a bowl of water with a bunsen burner or what eva. so i should be looking to pay around 90-150ish for an o2? temp sensor should be about the same i guess. ill be looking into it.
Sik Vl,
As In my post about the temp sensor, they arnt the thing that goes very often, so I woudlnt buy a new one myself. Go to the wreckers and get one, prolly pay 20 bucks maybey?? Or even just unscrew one and pocket it (For testing purposes of course haha) Then you can run a tank of juice through it and see how your economy goes. GM are a rip off for new bits and pieces like that.
vl grunt, i thought it was the soot build up that killed o2 sensors not necessarily the petrol itself, the idea of dipping was to enable the cleaning of this internal rod (the bit that cant be reached by any other means). does this internal rod get fouled up or does it actually rot away with use?
Turboluke - You are right, there is soot build up, and that can be cleaned, but the chemicals on the ceramic rod (This physically will never rot, ceramic is mega strong and resistant) inside the O2 sensor deplete over time, just like out CATS after a while. When this happens, the O2 sensor either doesn�t give a signal to the ECU at all, or its voltage output range is dramatically reduced, giving near useless input to the ECU.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Okay, the O2 sensor is in the exhaust manifold right?
I've got a 3pin plug just cable-tied to a bracket on the firewall on mine, and it doesn't go anywhere.
Would lack of a O2 sensor cause the car to idle like a bitch?
What colour is the plug? If its a greyish colour it the O2 sensor, if its White near the fuse box kinda its not. Without the O2 sensor... hmm i cant actually say I have run a car thats meant to have one without it... so I cant predict how it would behave. I image it wouldnt idle properly and run strange..??
Do you have the O2 sensor screwed into the manifold?
Yeah.. and a too rich or lean mixture will have a direct effect on the idle if it to far out.
Adjusting the AFM on idle effects the mixture in real time, and you can also hear the idle change slightly.
If he's got no O2 sensor, or one thats not plugged in, the car would not be running very healthy.
They do recommend you change your o2 sensor but I find if it is working,I don't bother worrying about it.
They do get clogged up with crap but I believe that is mainly if your engine is stuffed (seemingly never the case on an RB30 N/A engine if cared for) but on a good engine it will clean itself on a good run,you will notice it on an automatic if it won't drop its idle when place into gear,it will just run rough if the sensor is stuffed & you will not be able to tune your mixture in via the ECU.
If your engine was stuffed it would also likely have a stuffed cat as well.
As for air flow meter resistance readings it is only a theoretical value for when the engine is "new",air mass changes in relation to a "worn" engine (i.e. ring wear,reduced valve seat sealing,etc),it is like adjusting a carby,they are preset in the factory but need adjustment in the future due to normal wear in the engine.
With the AFM this means that if the air mass changes ,the voltage output to the computer must as well,this also applies when AFM cars are fitted with sports exhausts,bigger camshafts,etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by russell booth
They do recommend you change your o2 sensor but I find if it is working,I don't bother worrying about it.
They do get clogged up with crap but I believe that is mainly if your engine is stuffed (seemingly never the case on an RB30 N/A engine if cared for) but on a good engine it will clean itself on a good run,you will notice it on an automatic if it won't drop its idle when place into gear,it will just run rough if the sensor is stuffed & you will not be able to tune your mixture in via the ECU.
If your engine was stuffed it would also likely have a stuffed cat as well.
As for air flow meter resistance readings it is only a theoretical value for when the engine is "new",air mass changes in relation to a "worn" engine (i.e. ring wear,reduced valve seat sealing,etc),it is like adjusting a carby,they are preset in the factory but need adjustment in the future due to normal wear in the engine.
With the AFM this means that if the air mass changes ,the voltage output to the computer must as well,this also applies when AFM cars are fitted with sports exhausts,bigger camshafts,etc.
The AFM has a reference voltage, when at Idle or just the ignition on should be a set value, doesn�t matter if the motor is "new" or done 300,000km, it doesn�t change. The voltage reading on the AFM DO change when driving, as it measures air flowing past the hot-wire. The Reference voltage of 3.58 volts across the outer 2 pins is what the AFM should be set at regardless, unless small changes need to be made. I can say this, because I have the Workshop Service Manuals from Holden and looked into this problem quiet a bit, due to the mixture problems I used to have some time ago. Anyway, there�s no need to keep this topic dragging; I think the original questions have been answered.
Cheers all.
