at least ya did the search hehe

After reading up on water injection I have come to this conclustion... The water spray needs to be a fine mist in order not to suffocate the engine. To create the fine mist you need a high powered pump, meaning that it's only efficient at higher rpm. The water / petrol ratio needs to be around 25% water and 75% fuel, any more than 40% of water will most likely suffocate the mixture altogether. Water absorbes SIX times as much heat as standard fuel, the mist has the effect of steem cleaning your engine every stroke and helps decrease emissions. This is due to the lower internal temperatures (less NOx), and the less chance of carbon hot spots in the chamber. Water mist may deteriorate your exhaust faster. Advanced timing is possible as the water mist decreases chance of detonation. Flame speed slows down and octane rating of fuel is increased. Effectiveness may vary on outside weather conditions. Requires water tank to be re filled often. Water may be used in combination with a booster such as Methanol. A 50%/50% Water/Methanol will give the highest power output as alcahol burns slower than petrol. Water injection is most effective in a hot, dry environment. I.e. If the air is cold and already damp. If the engine is running lean, or if timing is advanced or or the engine is boosted, more power is very likely. HISTORY: Some aircraft from WW2 have been using water injection for their supercharged engines. They mechanisms that leaned out the air/fuel ratio simultaneously with the operation of the water injection, giving a large power increase. (remember higher altitude = less air and cooling potential) To be effective, water injection needs to be very reliable. If water runs out or stops working, the ecu needs to detect this and tune the engine accordingly. During low rpm or low boost, water injection is not needed. This is just a guide so treat it accordingly Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by bextor84 at least ya did the search hehe "true dat" well done dude, at least someone uses the search button Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Yeah man I am a search'a'holic i.e. scavenger haha Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

pvl-747... man 420hp...350rwkw's will have a vl runin in high 11's low 12's dude!!! not 13's pffft

Quote: 1. Seal off the little air intake snorkle and cut a hole through the bottom of the stock box. Using 90mm PVC down pipe, and 45 degree connections, run the pipe to just behind your front spoiler. Put a K&N panel air filter in the standard box. Don't think about using that flexible piping for the cold air, it's not as effective. 2. Have the cylinders bored 30 thou 3. Fit high compression forged flat top pistons. I used Ross pistons 4. Shave the head 20 thou 5. Have the head heavily ported, polished and hi-flowed 6. Fit Pacemaker 1.75" mandrel bent extractors, a 2.5" mandrel bent pipe from the extractors to the 2.5" high flow cat, then a 2.5" mandrel bent pipe to the straight through Lukey muffler and a 3" mandrel bent pipe from the muffler to the nice tip 7. Stage 3 "Crow Cams" cam 8. Bosch Motorsport fuel pump 9. Bosch 150 390cc injectors 10. Haltech computer with active 3D ignition and fuel timing adjustments. how will fuel economy be after this? also how much money would this all cost?

3 grand easy is my guess but hey, thats the prices around here. everything changes from place to place, what could be a 1200 exhaust here could be a 500 exhaust there. and well, my opinion is, if your chasing hp, then fuel economy may aswell not even be in your mind. if you wanna spend the extra cash on a good comp that you can program to economic or hp, then yeah.. thats worth it imo. but still. if you want fuel economy, hp aint your forte. if you want hp... economy isn't really gonna happen without extra expenses... makes sense to me, but im sure alot will disagree. and i understand why. but meh.. thats just how i see it. just go to turbo man, i was always a *meh sick of the guys saying just go to turbo* but now that im convinced, i know why they said it. the na has a limit to what you can do.. the turbo, so many options. meh..

twin cam head gives more power and improves economy, so i've heard.

speaking of which, what kinda figures would an rb25head non turbo, spit out on an rb30 block.. roughly.

About 110RwKw, If you use the rb25det pistons it's about 190FwKw

i highly recommend SURECAM. Phil will make exactly what you want. very happy with the cam i got.

an rb25det head and pistons would make for very good power, apparrently it is instant 33% more power just for the head, just get a half cut from japan, take the head and pistons and sell the rest and make most your money back.... if i was in your position thats what i would do

Um also squirting water into an aluminium head, is electrolysis not an issue?

I think raising the compression should ratio help top end a bit more. OldGold: Electrolosys might be a problem for the whole engine! Although at such high temperatures the water vapour would not get a chance to come directly in contact with the metal. If you ever put a small volume of water on an extreemly hot plate of metal you would understand. It just floats on top, like its hovering. Further more the volume of water is quite low in comparasin with the very high rpm the engine is running at. Since the water spray is not activated all the time, only when needed. As the water molecules are soo fine so that any large droplets dont suffocate the flame. My guess also with the cooling affect of the air due to evaporation, would be that these fine molecules would have similar characteristics to steam. In that steam is not a gas, just very fine, very hot, water droplets. Rather than nice cool fine water droplets with water injection. This would allow a better mix as well as less of a chance of condensation, back into large droplets of water. The result should mean that these fine droplets become a gas sooner since the flame engulfs them, which would have the added effect of extra expansion (6 times compared to fuel). In a gas form, electrolosys is not going to be an issue, until of course it reaches the exhaust system. Where everything starts to cool back down again. Since the exhaust is hotter than the exhaust manifold/pipes, the water will condense/attract to the walls of metal in the exhaust system. This is why the exhaust system will suffer due to corrosion.

dude steam is a gas.

My 2nd NA/6 VL had a bit of work done to it, not heaps, but yeah, everyone else is posting so why not me! lol All I had was: Stage3 Crow Cam Mild Port & Polish Bored T/B Extractors & 2.5" straight through exhaust ChipTorque Chip (stage 2 or custom?) O2RUSH Filter in the standard airbox. ALso had a GroupA front bar, with a 3" pipe runing off the front left brake duct - running up straight into the guts of the airbox (BIG difference!) It got 96rwkw.. which wasn't too bad considering none of the mods were big $$$... Also it was a Formula! so the stickers weighed it down a bit! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by PVL-747 13.9 @ 118mph! stop pulling your ****! to run 118mph in a vl you need 350+rwhp! that's over 420hp at the motor. NOS is the answer. or twin cam head, HKS cams, 13:1 compression, microtech computer, 6 throttle bodies on custom exhaust manifold, custom extractors into 3 inch exhaust, 5 speed manual, turbo diff with 4.11's. Hahaha Yeah that is true. 118 mph certainly is moving. I would LOVE to see a vl with 6 throttlebodies and trumpets out the bonnet. Has that ever been done. Well done though PVL that would make a F***in fast NA.

hahaha it's since been found that Qik_HDT, or "massive" as he later changed his name to... is a compulsive bull**** artist Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

He forgot to say VVTi (VCT) head + heavy port polish + Very agressive cams + lightened everything that moves in the engine... so replace all those parts that move with parts that way 10x less. I'm a compulsive bs artist too :P By the way, steem is not a gas, no BS.

How the hell you set up water injection? Can you do it yourself? Thanks