(note: unless ur've been playing round with VL's for a while and have a reasonable mechanical and aut-oelectrical knowledge, u prolly wont understand a word of what i am about to say.) does anybody know whether increasing the AFM resistance richens the mixture of leans it off? does anybody know what it is set to from factory? if someone has just replaced there AFM with a new one and has not played with it, can the check the stock resistance and let me know? Is it the same resistance setting for the turbo? im led to believe that there would be no single resistance that it best for all Vls. the whole idea of the adjustable AFM is to adjust the mixtures with things like age, wear, mods etc. So unless ur car is in identical working order to lobe grinders, with the same mods, his resistance setting might not be the best for ur car. The way that "gregorys" says to adjust the AFM is by the computer. has anyone tried adjusting the AFM by the computer prior to the multimeter method? Has anyone checked to see whether the multimeter setting of 382 ohms corresponds to the correct settings as indicated by the computer led lights.

Actually just noticing it today, it seems to be nearly the same as when i had it set to 210ohms (originaly). Except probably a little smoother...sorta hard to compare...

Quote: Originally Posted by pmpnvl The way that "gregorys" says to adjust the AFM is by the computer. has anyone tried adjusting the AFM by the computer prior to the multimeter method? All you adjust by the computer is the idle speed... Quote: Originally Posted by pmpnvl Has anyone checked to see whether the multimeter setting of 382 ohms corresponds to the correct settings as indicated by the computer led lights. I will check mine tomorrow morning to see if it returns correct mixture according to the LED's on the 382ohm setting.

[quote="pmpnvl"] im led to believe that there would be no single resistance that it best for all Vls. the whole idea of the adjustable AFM is to adjust the mixtures with things like age, wear, mods etc. So unless ur car is in identical working order to lobe grinders, with the same mods, his resistance setting might not be the best for ur car. quote] good point, but i've tried this with my VL which is fairly modded and my brothers skyline which is stock as a rock. Both picked up better response, hold on to gears longer (autos), and i believe but can't prove, make more power. Both our cars are in good condition, my car has a reco'd head and my brothers car has 147,000k's Nobody else seems to be able to get a good result though. I'm gonna ask the guy who works next door to try this out, his car is fairly modded too though.

Quote: All you adjust by the computer is the idle speed... sort of right. yes u adjust the idle by the computer, but u also use the computer when adjusting mixtures. the adjustment is actually done on the AFM but it is the computer that lets u know when it is correct. pretty sure the method im talking about it is in gregorys, but dont quote me on that.

factory setting for afm is about 386 ohms i thinx...... any1 else try getting the blue cap off wif a screw driver???? wot a ****, i got fed up and drilled the ****er out

A factory Air flow meter is usually around 386ohms +/- 5 ohms. For the Vl anyway. The higher you set the resistance, the less air it registers, i.e. the voltage reads lower at the computer. It works for about a couple of days, after this it relearns its factory target figures. The best way to prove this is: Set the AFM to say 600ohms, disconnect battery to reset computer, start car, at this setting your car will stall when you first start it, because it is to lean, you will have to keep the throttle down. Do a few start stops, by the end of the day, it will start run fine etc, because it adjusts/relarns itself. Now do the same thing with it set to say the factory 386ohms, disconnect battery again, to clear ecu memory. Start car, i can guarantee it will start striaght away and not splutter and stall, etc. In my opinion it doesnt do **** all at the end of the day as the ecu's seem to self adjust really quickly, back to target figures it seems. So, so much for tricking the ecu into running leaner, richer etc. It may modify closed loop operation slightly but the end mixtures it doesnt effect to much at all. Mick

yeah the factory computer does set things back like the AFM and even the ignition timing. My car doesn't change things back though, might have something to do with being chipped.

Hey people The AFM from a VL is adjusted to 3.58 volts measured on the 2 outer pins with the ignition on and the wiring harness connected. I have a brand new one from Holden (2 weeks old with original stop cap still in). The higher the voltage, the leaner you will make it, and of course the lower the voltage the richer it will run. Now I know for a fact, from the original Holden service manuals and from Holden themself. You can adjust it to make it a bit richer if you need to... but in all honesty, you�re just better off leaving to the factory setting of about 3.58-3.6 volts (You wont gain any major performance increase by fiddling). I did do a full post of this on the old forum, but it doesn�t seem to be available anymore Anyway, hope this helps guys. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

RB30-POWER....... I like ur point man.. that kinda makes sence too.. i've heard from another source before that the ECU is capable of slef adjusting itself... rather interesting topic this AFM one.... i think i've read that the AFM is inoperable under 2000rpm.. so this would definately mean that its adjustable for when the vehicle is actually running right, meaning its adjustable for driving the car.. for better or worse fuel consumption etc.. ? i dunno.. keep talkin !