Chris, Thanks for your information regarding the chassis vs engine dyno. Found it to be very informative. Just out of curiosity, what would be the limit of most workplace dyno's. Is it power/torque related or is it speed related, as in the rollers will only spin up to a certain speed? Cheers Michael

Mike, it is a bit of a combination of both At 200km/h which is at or very near the speed limit of most chassis dyno's and you need to change down to 3rd gear your torque is going to increase. The limit on most (all) chassis dyno's are both roller speed and torque input. The rollers are only safe up to a certain speed, the retarder unit can only absorb so much torque before it overheats. When it overheats it drops the load and you find the rpm/wheel speed increasing. Most dyno's in newcastle (chasis) can only hold up to 500bhp, the vane units a bit less the dyno dynamics a bit more depending on the retarder. So if you have a hp/tq monster a trip to sydney is in your future. The engine dyno i use can hold 1000 hp constantly and 2500 hp for 30 mins. Chris Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Chris, Thanks for your information regarding the chassis vs engine dyno. Found it to be very informative. Just out of curiosity, what would be the limit of most workplace dyno's. Is it power/torque related or is it speed related, as in the rollers will only spin up to a certain speed? Cheers Michael

Chris i'll give you a call tonight. what type of dyno do you use ??? (i.e. dyno dynamics) where do you work?

Hey guyz, Now i aint starting any trouble here, and i aint having a go at aftermarket ecu's, but id just like to say the disadvantages of autronics, etc. Now i used to have it, and yer it is probably the best aftermarket ecu, besides motec, on the market. It gives u a heap of warning features etc, (like wont start if the engines too hot, lets the thermo's on for ... amout of time.) however autronics is a full-racing ecu, and is used in boats, v8's, race cars etc, and therefore all this is necessary. Whereas in a streetcar, where all this aint necessary it does create a fue problems, the main one being cold starts. Due to the car being tuned on a certain degree/climate, if the weather became colder, or even warmer, itd have big problems starting, and even idling. Now as i see it, (no im not a unichip dealer) but something across those lines, such as a piggyback, where the standard ecu is retained, and allows perfect idles, coldstarts, has proven to be much better in my case. Unichip is based along the same lines as autronics, however does not have all the fancy warnings/options, and therefore is much cheaper, and still allows the fine tuning of fuel mixtures. Just thought i'd shed a different point of view, Cheers

on my RB20DET i got a old[5 years]link interceptor that goes between the AFM and the ecu.modifies the air intake signal. I am happy with this but is very basic.but ive tried it on another car and you had to change primary settings when you changed the load in the car,ie: dropped off passengers.

i was under the impression thet piggyback ecu's only allowed a small amount of change from the stock mapping, is this correct? I can't really use the std ecu + piggyback ecu anyway as the RB30 ecu has no provision for twin cams and multi coils etc... and the RB25 ecu wouldnt work on a 3L engine. Is this correct or would a piggyback ecu make it possible to use one of the std computers.????

hrmmm good question about the rb25/30 ecu, il find out 4 ya and get bak 2 ya. As u said, some piggyback such as microfuellers, really done allow u to fine tune the car, and playing with extra injectors is extremely risky when playing with big boost. However unichip is quite different to a microfueller, it allows you to select mixtures just like u would in an autronics, or motec ecu, however the standard ecu still takes care of the rest. The unichip dealer smirked at me when i told him i used to use autronics, and asked, 'Why would u scrap an ecu which holden/nissan have put millions of dollars into, in order to fine tune cold starts and idles, when instead of tossing it out the window, u could just change what was necessary?' good question huh...

yeah good question. Do you know how much a unichip sells for and who can tune them ????????? - only unichip dealers??????

Yep only unichip dealerz, dont quote me on this but i think they retail for just under a grand,

I seriously doubt that a piggy back ecu is a viable option in this case, as it would be to much of a pain in the arse to interface with the Rb25 coil packs and CAS etc. IF at all possible. Better to get full aftermarket easier to set up and almost all of them have facilitys to aid in cold starting. The only other thing is aftermarket ecu's generally have more mapping points so you will get better fuel consumption if tuned correctly compared to the 15 year old stock vl ecu. Mick

Still half thinking about the autronic but the microtech is looking good too. With the microtech they set it up to work with all the sensors on your motor so you dont need to change any of them and it comes programmed with a base map to get the thing running so you can drive it to get it tuned instead of having to float it

Has anyone used EMS on a VL yet?

MOTEC all the way!! watch out for mail order chips, all they do is dump excessive amounts of fuel in. had one on my car, it was running enough fuel at idle to fuel it at full boost :? waste of money and what is it with near stock vl turbo owners usin hi flow injectors and massive fuel pumps when the stock set up would flow enough fuel anyway??? spend your money wisely. engine management-MOTEC get one Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

While Link might not be one of the best ecu's available, i run a link ecu with no problems. I only bought it because of cost cause i didn't have a lot of money to spend. I believe it's all up to the tuner to how well it runs. Mines been tuned well and with simple bolt on's ran 12.48 @ 111mph on Friday at Calder full street trim and Optimax. Drove there and 2 1/2 hours home after no problems. Cheers.

Again, First thing it comes down to is $$$. Work out what you can afford. Second: Figure out what you want the ECU to do. E.g. Race, street performance, economy etc.... Third: Figure out with what unit you can afford for what you want it to do, then ring the manufacturer and ask who they recommend as a preferred installer in you area. This makes a big difference! Getting it installed is one thing, getting it to work it's full potential is another! E.g. I had a Haltec E6K installed (cost around $1800 for the main unit and about another $400-$500 for extra sensors (map, coolant, air etc...) In the end after tuning, it cost around $3000. After a year of back and forth, I still was not happy. Rang Haltech and asked who their preferred tuner was, went there, never been happier! Do you research and phoning around first!

I ran link from AVO on a VL with nizpro cooler, hi-flow turbo, exhust and made 200kw at the wheels, it ran really nice and much more responive than the standard computer Link can run bigger injectors also has settings were you can shut down fuel pupms etc. so no-one can steal your car unless they have your hand-controller, I know a lot of people dont like AVO but they really know a lot about this computer and only takes half a day to fit including dyno All i needed was bigger injectors and fuel pump and I would have been near the 230-240 rwkw.

On the subject of microtech, how would a MT8 go running a VLT? I can get one cheap if i want it, just wondering if it will run bigger injectors ok? or is it more suited for 4cyl cars...? And do u need new sensors at all for it?

If your autronic will not cold start properly take it back tothe dealer and ask him (pay him) to do the job properly. As far a the engine not starting when too hot you would have to set this specifically in the rev limit screen. Also the fans can be set not to stay on so long. Chris Quote: Originally Posted by YelLO-ChAsRr Hey guyz, Now i aint starting any trouble here, and i aint having a go at aftermarket ecu's, but id just like to say the disadvantages of autronics, etc. Now i used to have it, and yer it is probably the best aftermarket ecu, besides motec, on the market. It gives u a heap of warning features etc, (like wont start if the engines too hot, lets the thermo's on for ... amout of time.) however autronics is a full-racing ecu, and is used in boats, v8's, race cars etc, and therefore all this is necessary. Whereas in a streetcar, where all this aint necessary it does create a fue problems, the main one being cold starts. Due to the car being tuned on a certain degree/climate, if the weather became colder, or even warmer, itd have big problems starting, and even idling. Now as i see it, (no im not a unichip dealer) but something across those lines, such as a piggyback, where the standard ecu is retained, and allows perfect idles, coldstarts, has proven to be much better in my case. Unichip is based along the same lines as autronics, however does not have all the fancy warnings/options, and therefore is much cheaper, and still allows the fine tuning of fuel mixtures. Just thought i'd shed a different point of view, Cheers

Hey Chris, have you got a wiring diagram i can have a look at to see if i think that i can wire it myself???? FASTVL - yeah an MT8 will run it - i was talking to microtech and they said that they would set the computer up to use all the standard sensors but if you get a second hand one i dont know if they will work, would probably depend on what type of car it was set up for.

87CALAIS: Would it matter what car it was off? As I would only be buying the computer and hand controller, so couldn't you just reset the thing? I'd have to buy the loom and other required sensors seperatley...