just some thing to think about, the standard vl brake pads are the same as the turbo ones, cheack up on that one if u want, i am 100% sure. also have a good look at the vt brake pads, the area which makes contact, with the disk, looks very much the same size, as the vl n/a i would be looking at cross drilled, just easing up on the heavy braking

Okay, the car is booked in tomorrow for new bendix heavy duty pads and getting the disc's machined. I'm guessing they are changing over the fluid too, and they are checking out the drums for me. I'll see how that goes for now, gotta be better than the metal on metal we currently have, geeze that sounds good......

Take along your own brake fluid, the crap that most places stock is rubish, and the main cause of brake fade. find some race quality stuff before you go, it will be worth it.

HSVSUX - you've done some track work before, do you know much about balance bar brake systems? I'm thinking of fitting a twin master cylinder balance bar brake system to my EH, with this set-up you dont need to run a booster/s? Do they work?

No you dont need to run a booster with an aftermarket Pedal box set up, they have two master cylinders (1 front, 1 rear) and the bance bar set up changes the pivot point between them. The reason they dont need a booster is the pedal pivot ratio is very different and they take less pedal effort but more pedal travel to move a given distance at the masters. My brother and I set up and ran this system on his race car. I have been putting off fitting this type of set up to my car, because they are a pain to mount. and I dont have much spare cash. There are about 5 or 6 different size masters, so you can use them on any car / brake combo. pedal box's (clutch and brake) are around $300, master are $100 each. (need 3) generally you can use the stock gas pedal setup. I have lost the brakes once in my car at the track, I was doing about 200 and went to brake for a haipin corner and the pedal went to the floor, turns out the seal in the std master failed. the rear circuit was kind of working so it locked the rear and went into a slide, just kept the car off the tyre wall. Also while I'm boring everyone, the other reason I should get rid of the std master / booster set up, is, when goind along the straights, most drivers give the brake pedal a couple of jabs to make sure shes all o.k, try this in a turbo car when you have your foot hard on the gas, the brake pedal goes rock hard (because all the vacuum is gone) and you hope the non-return valve in the booster will work and let vacuum in when you take your foot off the gas. every lap thats in the back of my mind. Back to your question, they work really well. but on a road car they have quite a firm feel (I like that)

Thanks HSVSUX, I talked to a brake guy whom I brought my VT front brake conversion for the EH off, he said that he knows of a couple of people who tried it with very similar brake set-up to mine but only ended up with a soft pedal? Would this be because they are using the wrong size master cylinders? Maybe you need to use race brake fluid and braided lines with this set-up to get a good pedal feel? Anyhow I think I will go talk to a race brake place and see what they think.

It sounds like they used to smaller masters for there particular calipers. You will find most brake places will try to talk you out of using a pedal box, because they dont hnow enough to get the system working correctly. If you can find someone that has done lots of pedal box conversions and they get it right.........you will be very impressed at the result. Even if you do it yourself and guess wrong with master sizes, its just a case of using another size and they are easy to sell 2nd hand as most racecars use them and they are all interchangable (mounting). alot of cars that I have seen use a proportioning valve as well (which you should not have to do because of the balace adjustment in the box itself) shows that the master size choice is also incorrect. its better to change the front to rear balance with volume, not pressure. I dont think that braided lines would have helped much, new rubber lines dont expand much at all, only old ones. (I run braided lines more for saftey - if the lines get hit by something etc, but you need to replace them every couple of years) Hope this helps. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.