re use head bolts or not?

no,they are torque to yield bolts ---------- Post added 17-04-10 at 16:49 ---------- they are cheep to buy from repco

thanks Danny what is the std thickness of the 30e head gasket?

.8 from memory,someone could confirm tho,not 100% sure ---------- Post added 17-04-10 at 17:58 ---------- i have heard of people reusing head bolts so its up to you,but if you what a oppinion if a pro,just pm brent he will tell you everything you need to know

just wondering, my old motor shat itself(bottom end) and i now currently have a new engine in my vl with the old cam but minus the cometic head and stud kit. would i be able to take these out and chuck them on the new motor when the head goes, or should i buy a new head and stud kit?

hey guys just wondering if anyone who has a mini spool has experienced problems with their brakes. at the moment when i go on the brakes the pedal moves in and out slightly i first thought bent axle but have checked and its fine. im thinking its to do with a brake imbalance between left and right side on the diff now that its locked . im going to be upgradeing the front brakes shortly so that should eliminate them from the problem but yeah my guess at this stage is a brake imbalance. any help would be much apreciated

chances are that your disc's or drums are out of round or not sitting square against hub or axle,if problem has just happened recheck what you last did ie fitted ford diff have the axles stud pattern been changed to holden may be not centred

I have used ARP head and main studs for the last few years but prior to that I have reused the original headbolts several times over without an issue. When taking the head off, make a note of what studs are very hard to undo and do not reuse those ones as they are stressed in both directions. New stuff is always nice but if you are on a budget I would have no hesitation in reusing std RB30 headbolts. ---------- Post added 20-04-10 at 20:00 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by NZ VL com [View Post] what is the std thickness of the 30e head gasket? approx .045" compressed. (1.125mm) ---------- Post added 20-04-10 at 20:03 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by PSIWPN NZ [View Post] hey guys just wondering if anyone who has a mini spool has experienced problems with their brakes. at the moment when i go on the brakes the pedal moves in and out slightly i first thought bent axle but have checked and its fine. im thinking its to do with a brake imbalance between left and right side on the diff now that its locked . im going to be upgradeing the front brakes shortly so that should eliminate them from the problem but yeah my guess at this stage is a brake imbalance. any help would be much apreciated I would doubt it is a brake balance prob, they arent really an issue with locked diffs. its more likely to be a run out issue, have you clocked the rotors on the rear with the wheel nuts trqd?

Thanks Brent

My A/c has just in the last days just not worked at all....iv checked the fuses ect tick of one problem...what else can i do? done search but cant find..(waiting for someone to give me link and tell me of...lol) But yea...my a/c has been the best the last 4/5 months, it was working like super cold and perfect ...and then now it doesnt even get any sort of cold...what else do i check? and supposedly when i bought it it just got re gassed?

Hey guys, I'm a little confused with oil catch cans? I bought one - it has 2 ports on top + a drain port on the bottom. I bought it thinking that I connect each top port to the 2 on the rocker cover (as that's what I've seen on many cars before). But after doing a bit of research, some people seem to put the catch can in-line with only one of the rocker cover ports (ie hose from rocker cover to catch can - then a hose from catch can to inlet manifold. But I thought the whole idea of a catch can was to stop any crap (blow-by) going to the inlet manifold? Would those people mount it inline for emissions reasons (ie to me it would seem that the catch can in that situation would trap all the gunk, but the vapours would go back to the intake manifold?) And I've also read of people doing that setup because there is pressure/or vaccuum inside the rocker cover, and if you just ran 2 hoses from the rocker cover to a vented catch can then that pressure would be released to the atmosphere? I didnt think there was any sort of pressure/vaccuum at all in the rocker cover? And then some people were talking about doing something with the PCV valve when installing a catch can (bypassing it or something, I can't remember). Do you guys know what I should do? is it supposed to be that complicated, or do I just hook 2 hoses up from the rocker cover to the catch can and thats it? Also, my catch can doesn't have a breather filter on it, can I just drill a hole thru the lid and put a filter on? (The lid is removeable so I can take it off before drilling). cheers Sam

2 on rocker to top of can can drain back to sump can breather to filter of pcv to reburn any vapours the drain is there so that any oil will drain back, but on a new engine you shouldnt see much yes there can be pressure in the rocker as the engine oil heats/cools it expands/contracts

yea sam thats what i did on my 1st catch can,drilled a hole and put a filter on

cool thanks for clearing that up guys, Dave I'm still a bit confused about the pcv? do you mean I have to run a 3rd hose from the top of the can, back to the pcv? instead of putting a filter on the top of the can? sorry for being so dumb lol Quote: Originally Posted by NZ VL com [View Post] can breather to filter of pcv to reburn any vapours

*or can vent to atmosphere or plumb it back to the pcv for emissions purposes

Oh yup I got ya, thanks Dave

when simon went for cert they made him take the catch can off and run a pcv valve,but the guy passed mine with my catch can on

on my old car i did away with the pcv valve and just blanked it off i then ran one hose from the rocker cover to the catch can and had a breather on the other fitting of the catch can . the reason for only running one hose to catch can was that the second fitting on the rocker cover had to be blanked off due to the intercooler pipeing going right across it. but in your case just run the two hoses to the catchcan and yeah put a breather on it

ok awesome thanks guys

My 2 cents on catch cans... the design of the can/plumbing spec/engine mods to improve catch performance all depend on how much power and boost you run and how long you are on the throttle for. the crankcase of an RB turbo engine sees a fair amount of blowby gasses and if you dont set up a can appropriately it can be a real nightmare. One of the problems is due to the RB engine having quite small oil drain holes in the head and block. The combustion gasses that leak past the rings and into the crankcase have to get out of the engine and the breathing is done from the rocker cover so the air has to make its way up the oil drain back holes preventing the oil from draining back under gravity, this also applies to the drain back line from an external catch can to the sump, the oil wont drain back when the engine is under load. On the street and driving sedately you will never really have any problems no matter what can you fit or how you plumb it. but as you make more and more HP and either do lots of skids, race or 'Aaron style' street driving :P you will start to fill a catch can in a relatively short time. some of the mods you can do to get around this are: Drill the oil drain back holes in the block, gasket and head to 9mm from the std 7mm. Radius all oil drain holes in the head. Fit bigger breather fittings and lines to the rocker cover (dash 10 works well). Fit smaller oil restricters to the block or head (or fit drilled grub screws to the lifter blocks if the head is staying on). run either one or two big (minimum dash 12) lines from high on the sump to the rocker cover - this allows the air to come up effectively to the rocker cover and out the breather lines and leaves the oil drain back holes to do the job of oil returning to the sump. Run a big (minimum dash 12) return line from the catch can to the sump below oil level so the windage doesnt hold the oil up in the line. Mount the catch can so it has the best drain back angle to the sump. Baffle the catch can so the breather filter never sees oil splashes. Use a breather filter that has resonable size hole. Hope this helps someone someday, lol