recently purchased a stock genuine vlt motor, car is currently unable to be started due to the tapets not being on (one of the threads is stuffed) so im taking the head of and taking it in to be reco'd and if needed cam shaft tunnel welded, looking at aprox $500 less if not cracked, is there anything else i should get done while the head is being worked on?

Quote: Originally Posted by rb_inside [View Post] r33 rb25de 140+kw standard,pick them up for $400-600 trademe with loom computer then at some stage convert to turbo if wanted parts are easy as to get and cheap its been all discussed before but to be honest their is no cheap easy ways to go because as every one who has done something similar it will cost more than you think and alot more $$$$ than people will tell you totally true , any path you take involves $$$ and more $$$ . managed to get the spark plug out , fragments were dropped into cylinder .... so only way i could get them out was to crank her up and let her blow them out. while that was happening i could hear pinging noises and crap coming from the engine ....... do you think its harmed it in anyway ?? not sure if i might of damaged it. still missing under idle tho , it more sputters lightly now and then. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by 0C1876 [View Post] ok here's a half stupid question. would it be better to convert a RB30e to et ? or would it be better to convert it to a RB30de ? then maybe turbo it later down the track. Talk to HSVSMURF. He did a DET conversion. I think he will steer you away from it, unless you have a bottomless wallet!!! LOL

pretty goood point there , i dont quite gota bottomless wallet LOL !! or i could just bump it up 2 cylinders ....... hahha Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by 0C1876 [View Post] or i could just bump it up 2 cylinders ....... hahha Now theres a fantastic idea... Then you will wonder why you ever thought an RB30e sounded so good!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Rollin [View Post] Talk to HSVSMURF Ahahahaha smurf Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by VL-EXEC [View Post] recently purchased a stock genuine vlt motor, car is currently unable to be started due to the tapets not being on (one of the threads is stuffed) so im taking the head of and taking it in to be reco'd and if needed cam shaft tunnel welded, looking at aprox $500 less if not cracked, is there anything else i should get done while the head is being worked on? port and polish, lumpy cam, stiffer valve springs... where do ya stop Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

[QUOTE=0C1876;2576498]pretty goood point there , i dont quite gota bottomless wallet LOL ! so in short, run it as is even if you have to take head off, fix it up bolt back on and run it till she stops again,in the mean time build up a spare good one and when you have all the bits then drop it into a good project vl, by then youll be married with 4 kids and one on the way and will need a van and have too sell your project Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

has any one ever fitted higher powered bulbs to thier head lights ?? finding standard ones to be crap.

Quote: Originally Posted by 4sakenvl [View Post] has any one ever fitted higher powered bulbs to thier head lights ?? finding standard ones to be crap. don't do it I can hear your fuserail screaming Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

their was a kit on tm or ebay a while back to make them brighter wasnt there?

Quote: Originally Posted by 4sakenvl [View Post] has any one ever fitted higher powered bulbs to thier head lights ?? finding standard ones to be crap. can be done you just need to fit/add afew relays near your headlights will take some pictures of mine real easy to do took about an hour definately takes the load off the fuses

Quote: so in short, run it as is even if you have to take head off, fix it up bolt back on and run it till she stops again,in the mean time build up a spare good one and when you have all the bits then drop it into a good project vl, by then youll be married with 4 kids and one on the way and will need a van and have too sell your project Yeah you got that right down to the T! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by 4sakenvl [View Post] has any one ever fitted higher powered bulbs to thier head lights ?? finding standard ones to be crap. dont do it you will burn out the reflectors super quick, chances are you reflectors are shot any way, those HID kits are a good idea but not sure if they are legal

I had bigger bulbs fitted when my car was serviced (not exactly sure what they did), but they made a massive improvement and were in there for 4-5 years before I sold it no problems

What about globes like these: http://www.narva.com.au/products/bro...ormance-globes (http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/performance-globes) VL High/Low Beam: http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h4 VL High Beam: http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h3 They are brighter than standard bulbs but the power output of them is the same, so I can't see them having any different effect on the fuserail. And here's some info on what's legal/illegal to get better performance from your headlights: http://www.hella.co.nz/?t=46

on the relays theres 4 terminals that you use,30=main power supply from battery(run a suitable sized wire direct from battery through a fuse link) 85=earth(run a wire from 85 to body),87=wire TO either high or low beam(cut the wire that goes to the high or low beam and crimp on a terminal,86=wire FROM fuse block(this is the other half of the wire you cut) So basically what should happen now is, the power that used to power the lights now only turns the relays on/off which in turn the relays now sends battery power direct to the head light high or low.In this example i used relays for both high and low as my fuse block was shot so 4 in total 2 each side ---------- Post added 04-09-10 at 13:50 ---------- the main power supply wire was looped/spliced to supply power to both relays on the left hand side and was wraped with some protector wrap and tucked under the plastic molding in front of radiator the right side power wire was also looped/spliced to power both relays, Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

cheers for the help and info guys , will look into it

Ok here it goes - Recently brought a new ECU for the wag, its retuneable and all, plug and play setup. It has a usb port on the side of it to plug into a laptop. My question is, should I get a USB port installed somewhere by my radio or something for easy access ? Where would you guys put one ?

ive got mine in the glovebox so it doesnt look mesy and its still easily accessible