To paint it black cost me $45. It really does set of the engine (which I droped in the other day). To paint it xirillic red I was quoted $500-700 depending on his labour. Black it was.

pics to prove it looks good!!! not usually the biggest fan of differing colour engine bays. hearing ya on the $$ difference between colour coding and black tho. at that big of a difference its hard to justify the extra $$, especially if you are happy with it just had another look over your engine pics, i reckon should look pretty good given the colour combination

went to connect the gearbox cross member today and i cant lift the gearbox high enough. Ihavent massaged the drive tunnel enough. spent the whole morning dropping the subframe while supporting the engine, then lifting the engine while dropping the box. just finished massging the tunnel some more. should be plenty of clearance now (used a bigger hammer). just about to start teh revese order to get it all back in. did it that way as i dont have to take the extractors off and ruin a gasket set. its like ross off friend "Pivot""Pivot" and everythign clears. Q

What a mission. The engine and gearbox are now supported under there own weight and the car is back on all 4 tyres. yay Next plan is to start of the wiring loom and decide if i can be bothered uprating the brakes or just coughing out for better pads. Its just a cruiser and Im thinking do i really need to spend close to 1k on the vt/vl adapter, vt valipers, pads and master syl and vs booster. so watch this space as i get ready to turn it over. Q

Good work mate, glad the engines in! I hear what your saying with the $$$ difference with painting the bay. I personally don't like different color bays and would of just been patient and saved the extra coin for painting the original color. But hey!! It's your car, as long as your happy champ that's all that matters. Once again good work, keep the updates coming! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i don't think that photo does it any justice, would really want to see it complete i was going to suggest maybe having some bits painted similar to the exterior, but it doesn't look like there is too much more you could possibly some hectic red leads?!!

Spoke to the cert man today to get the low down on brakes and what he is happy with. The Calais 270mm rotors will have to go. He said even with decent pads they just get too spongy when you use big rims. He is happy for me to upgrade to the 290mm v8 rotor and a vn v8 caliper but would prefer the rotor be slotted to aid in braking (though not required). quick look into new rotors, pads and some second hand calipers it would set me back about $400 (or $500 for the slotted option). When I asked him about the 323mm ve upgrade option he said great idea if you can afford it. so far I found a post on here for about 800 AUD but waiting to see if he ships to nz. probably a bit of overkill really but man those twin spots would look good under my rims. Time to be nice to the wife i guess. Also sorted out the speedo cable and accelerator cable today. Took the speedo into Robinson Instruments Onehunga and they are going to run a new cable inside the factory pipe to give me the correct fitting for the t700 box and vl cluster. Should cost about $75-$100. Took the rb30 accelerator cable into Autostop Takanini and for $30 im getting it shortened about 65mm. This should allow the cable to wind on the throttle plate and connect to the bracket without any other mods. Q

Friday the 13th might be unlucky for some but I dont beleive in black cats or ladders so why should today bother me, infact it hasn't. Got back my modified speedo cable and mounted it up first pop. Now the T700 trans will work the vl speedo drive and at $45 to mod the old one it couldnt be cheaper if I did it myself. Also just picked up the shortened speedo cable which ill fit tomorrow (damn night shifts). As for the brakes front have the best possible solution at the cheapest price ever .... Didnt just want vn v8 single pots on the 290x22mm rotors and was contemplaing using the 28mm vt twinpots and making up some 3mm spacers to put behind the pads (increasing the pad thickness to match the rotor size) but wasnt overly convinced. Had almost decided to import the vl/vt hub adapters ($350 landed) then upgrade to the 296mm VT rotors ($220) and VT twinpot calipers ($200) which wouldnt leave much change from $750 before pads and brake lines but then .... Then I found someone in NZ that does a 290mmx28mm rotor for the vl commodore (ie disc with built in hub for the vl spindle). It comes complete with a set of twinpot VT calipers and the best part was that it only cost me $350 plus freight. Boom ... how do you like them apples Q ---------- Post added 13-09-13 at 16:53 ---------- Stoopid shop lied. They are only 22mm wide. grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. time to talk to the certer. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

nice project mate loving the build and the colour is perfect. keep it up

Thanks vlwagz As for my brakes ... DO NOT run the vt twinpot caliper on the 290x22 rotors (like 2 posts ago). There is a place in NZ that sells it as a viable upgrade but if you value your life i wouldnt. I managed to scab up a caliper today and have a play on my spare stuts. It would work and all you would need to do is pack the back of the pads with some 3mm spacers to allow the caliper to work fully as intended. With full brake pads everything would be fine but if you got the outter pad down to the metal it could and most likely would just spin straight out through the 6mm gap and that would be a problem the first time you hit the stoppers. Going to look at some 4 pot rx7 calipers on monday. They normally run a 296x22mm rotor but have a 140/150mm bolt spacing. It will require some sort of adapter plate but then you can still run the factory 290x22 rotors ($100) and some 4 pots ($250). watch this space. Failing that I have rulled out the first option - $500-$550 for the 290x22 slotted with VN V8 singlepot calliper as I would rather spend $700-$750for the full VL-VT + adapter upgrade or $1000 for the full VL-VE upgrade will be on the cards. (already broken to the wife). Q

As I have mentioned recently I finally got a chance to reinstall the engine and box into the engine bay. It is all starting to take shape now. Since then I have connected the engine wiring loom and have been working on the accelerator and speedo cables options at cost effective prices. ACCELERATOR: Take the factory VL 3.0L cable to Autostop and have them shorten the inside core 60mm at the throttle end. While still a little long overal the cable will now fit between the pedal and the throttle body and throttle bracket perfectly. Cost $25. SPEEDO: For the turbo 700 box remove the factory speedo sensor unit and stow in a safe place. Take your factory VL 3.0L speedo cable into Robinson Instruments and get them to recore it adding the adapter to suit a T700 box. Go home and install into speedometer unit and gear box. Cost $45 --------------- BIG BRAKE UPGRADE: I may have also mentioned that I have started workign on the brake upgrade. I beleive that I have found the cheapest and best stopping option by far with minimal mods or larger purchases. I expect my upgrade to cost $450 once completed. Parts required - VL 290x22mm Rotors. Wheel bearing kit. Mazda RX7 FD3S Series 5/6 4 pot calipers. Mazda pads. This shows the Mazda caliper would fit perfectly to the Holdens strut if the bolt spacings were the same but they arent (Holden is 80mm caliper spacing while the Mazda is 150mm) as shown this pic. To connect the two all you need to do is get some 200x50x8mm steel plate and drill 4 holes in it (2 for the strut, 2 for the caliper). Next you need to make some spacers to place under the Holdens mounting point which can be tacked in place. Then all you need are some high tensile bolts to go through an the caliper and the plate to hold it on. More pics to come as I start assembling myself. This last pic is just to show the depth of the caliper and that you can still run your sweet rims ---------- Post added 16-09-13 at 21:52 ---------- Nothing to do tonight so I got back into it. Brake booster and master re fitted. Booster line to engine connected (once I found it). Drive shaft reconnected. First driveshaft hoop installed. Alternator bracket and alternator refitted Powersteering pump and bracket repainted. (fit tomorrow) Q Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

slow but steady today. Fitted the alternator, bracket and belt. Fitted the p/steer pump and bracket. Had issues with teh power steering lines (which I forgot to install before the extractors. will attack that again tomorrow). Picked up the new 290mm rotors Picked up the Mazda RX7 FD3S Series 6 4 pot calipers Ordered the new wheel bearings. Finally watched summerslam 2013 and are now off to work. Q Picked up the Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Finally crancked it over for the first time the other night. Was a couple of teeth out on the dizzy alignment but once I sorted that and the loose battery connection she purred into life first pop ::: PLEASE NOTE ::: At about 30 seconds the exhaust is very loud due to phone camera and straight off the headers. You have been warned. Video can be found at THIS LINK HERE (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=568365086532656&l=7965923144026469948) ... Q Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

been hell busy but here is an update for you all. The 4pot big brake upgrade (for $450) is all but complete and I have done some wiring modifiactions to the factory speedo warning lamp area. ------ Got the new Turbo 700 trans speedo drive bracket today ($25) so now I can put that back together. Figured out the original nissan/holden box had a 17 spline driven gear though I am still on the hunt to find out how many teeth are on the drive gear (so i can figure out the ratio). Have been told that it is part of the output shaft on the autobox and not a seperate drive gear like the t700 is. --------------------- Dash cluster. I decided that because I will no longer be using the power button from the original trans that I would remove the image in the warning panel and insert the engine check lamp in its place. This was quite easily done (about 30-40mins) and simply involved cutting the engine check from the VN dash I had at home and connecting the ecu engine check lamp wire to the old trans button. While I was at it I used the spare lamp on the left hand side of the warning panel and with a bit of rewiring added the engine oil check lamp to it. (you can just see the green trace wire leading to it as a little soldering was required for that one --------------------- Big Brake upgrade As previously mentioned I decided not to spend $1000 - $1200 on the VT (or more for the VE brake upgrade) kit. One day (money allowing) I will buy the VE kit but for now funds are getting tight. So I come up with a new solution for you all that only cost me $450 which included new VL 290x22mm Rotors, Mazda RX7 FD3S Series 6 4 pot calipers, New Mazda pads. The Mazda caliper would bolt directly up if the Holdens spacing was wide enough but its not, the Holden is 78mm while the Mazda is 160mm Here is the difference in the VL Commodore caliper (left) and the Mazda RX7 Caliper (right). As you can see the bolt spacing is miles out. To remedy this you need to make up two plates from some 200mm x 30mm x 6mm (or 40mm wide if thats all you have like I did). Next drill the 4 holes as shown remembering to offset the inner holes down 4mm from the outer holes (6mm would be fine as well as this only aids to push the brake pad closer to the edge of the caliper). Next use the original bolts that held the caliper to the strut and reverse mount them as such using nuts to tighten. The tricky part is next as you need to somehow insert the spacers under the plate to take up the space between the caliper and strut. Once done tighten up with some new bolts into the factory strut mount position. If you dont mind the word Mazda on the caliper then your big brake 4 pot upgrade is complete for about $400-$450. Note: I have been told you can mill the Mazda lettering off as long as you leave the ridge there as the ridge is the fluid channel between the outer two pistons. I have not tried this but googling does show it to be a common practice ------ So there you go. A 4 pot caliper 290mm rotor setup for $450. I havent tested the stopping ability yet but the factory Holden master cylinder is 15/16 and the Mazda one is 13/16 so it should actually make a harder pedal as well. guess time will tell Q Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

coming along nice bud! very clever with "chek engine" light too

Thanks Dougall Todays list of things completed * 2nd driveshaft loop fitted * driveshaft refitted * Speedo sender refitted * gear lever riveted down * gear linkage connected to the box Cant quite get the shifter into park so I dont think I have the shifter to gearbox lever connected correctly. Will look at it some more tomorrow then lift the front up and actually start on instaling the front brakes. Q

front brakes are all installed now (rather than just on the test strut). got in and sorted out the front brake lines as well which was remarkedly easy. Basically the old Holden single claw was a banjo style fitting to the caliper while the Mazda RX7 4 pot was a screw in fitting. I ended up down the local pick-a-part where I scavenged up the top and lower front pipes from any mid 90s Mitzi. (mine were from an RVR but they all apear to run the same setup). Then I went to the local brake shop and had them make me up a joiner and I had a replacememnt set of brake pipes for $22. There was a little modding to the front mount point on the strut but it was straight foward and the pics I took should explain it (when I get them off my phone) Q ---------- Post added 27-10-13 at 12:11 ---------- list of things to complete before its legal Bleed the brakes Fix the shifter linkage rod Install a radiator and fluid Tidy up wiring on passenger floor. Install speedo cable. Not long now. Q

little closer over the last few days radiator and fan mounted and filled with antifreeze/water mix. Mounted oil cooler for the trans. sorted the gear shift linkage running the inside of the trans. Got the reworked odometer back with the tacho configured for 8cyl now. ordered a 90 degree 1:1 bend from ebay for the speedo linkage. bled the brakes (nice hard pedal) not much left now .... fix exhaust bleeding p/steer rack install the speedo cable tidy the wiring cert time yay

Great build so far mate