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09-10-13, 19:30 GMT+10#41 Yeah I'm trying to chase two sedan ones in good condition and I'll use a berlina one I have out of a wagon as a template two make my ownni think, yeah I'm going to pull my looms apart this weekend hopefully and run my new interior loom get some stuff sorted again.. everytime I look I find something else I wanna touch up , never ending story. I think your doing great with the limited resources you have too..
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09-10-13, 21:36 GMT+10#42 Quote:
Originally Posted by 88wagon
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Yeah I'm trying to chase two sedan ones in good condition and I'll use a berlina one I have out of a wagon as a template two make my ownni think, yeah I'm going to pull my looms apart this weekend hopefully and run my new interior loom get some stuff sorted again.. everytime I look I find something else I wanna touch up , never ending story. I think your doing great with the limited resources you have too..
cheers bud.
I don't have a overly clear view of what I want the bay to look like. But what motivates me is how dirty it was and how well something in the rite hands comes up with some care, pride and elbow grease.
Other than that im just aiming for what iv never had before and that is...
A clean stock/ish vl turbo that in the end is a pleasure to drive.
Short story..
I bought a turbo when I was 21 and ignorant. I bought a project and ended up with a problem never getting a chance to be pulled over. As I pulled it off the road and fitted an gk-Teck cooler. she never ran again... still to this day I have a few theories but I had to sell up (living on a mates couch at the time lol those where the days lol)
I promised my self id return to the dream later on.
So basically im just out to proving a point to myself and the kid in me
There is no shame in having a go your self , it shows true character .
how's your knitting skills? iv stitched up a few Calais interiors and choosing the correct thread can be tricky lol use safety pins to keep every thing strait and yeah should look good as.
Thanks for the input.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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10-10-13, 10:14 GMT+10#43 re the sub ignore everyone at repco and on this forum. jump on a forum called mobileelectronicsaustralia.com or MEA for short. the guys really know their stuff and thats where the sound quality and sound pressue level (DB Drag) competitors hang out.
I purchased some top notch stuff at a very good price there and unlike audio gear from gumtree or the trading post it was very well cared for in its previous setups eg these guys use voltmetres to ensure they "run in" subs properly before turning them up for competitrion use. its mental.
i'd suggest a dd 10" sub in a sealed box. I had a 12" mtx thunder ported box and i smashed out 130.2db with the rear seat removed.
---------- Post added 10-10-13 at 11:35 ----------
btw i now run a DD2512. so its dd for digital designs, the 12 means 12" and the 25 refers to the series. the lowest is 15 and they do 95's aswell and a few in between.
i run my 2512 in a ported box in a vy wagon and i run it between -8 to -12db on the amp as it overpowers everything. I'd go sealed if i re-boxed it again. I havent had it tested but it'd be 140db+ and it cost me $400 + an alpine v12 amp to run it was $200 inc. delivery which is awesome. cheaper than getting some rubbish stuff from supercheap auto and the quality of build and sound trumps anything in the price range carried by mainstream retail stores.
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10-10-13, 13:40 GMT+10#44 Thanks for the heads up on the info,Sounds good. I'll defiantly check it out. I usually start at wiki to insure I'm not going in un armed.
Super cheap sell audio stuff now?:O More to the point who buys audio gear from a place called super cheap.
Wish we had a Jcar up here, I'm worse than a fat kid in a candy store in that place.
But jokes aside
Ill get something with a good kick in a ten like what you have listed above.
been following you thread. Well your on every wagon thread any way lol it's so clean and the work that you put into the wheels is pure dedication and Q/A. Good reading.
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10-10-13, 15:53 GMT+10#45 Looks amazing in comparison to before, best thing you did was piss off that abortion cooler piping. Once the rocker is painted, will look tops. I dislike the brush effect but overall its nice.
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10-10-13, 22:34 GMT+10#46 House Paint has its vices Mus. The cooler was a given, Most people don't show nearly as much attention to the interior and engine bay as they do to what they feel judged on. the exterior and wheels. The threat to their pride and status is there motivation. I don't see this as the mark of passion.
Nor do I see the point in buying 2,500 wheels, 6,000 paint job polished to perfection when the driver sits amongst rocks a maccas wrapping. In my opinion
I like to think The proof is in the attention to detail, the little things people don't see. I believe This is the mark of true pride.
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12-10-13, 19:51 GMT+10#47 Totally agree with you mate. Its the attention to detail which makes a a car look special and stand out.
Your build is coming along great because of that! But there will be a point where you will respray these bits with house paint because it all looks so immac other then the streaks!.
But I wont judge you, I ♥ the work you have done.
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12-10-13, 21:37 GMT+10#48 Heh what can I say thanks.
So today I tested the engine electrics as per R31 manual
All the major sensor with some surprising results...
The transistor near the CAS is suppose to read 0 ohms in all 8 combinations. But it has a massive resistance of 1,470 and does not read in any other instance. Thus it needs replacing.
The air regulator:
located near the CTS and having a 2 wire plug; reads 76 ohms at the unit. Which is fine as it's recommended approximate value is 70 ohms
But the plug ( black neg / violate bat voltage) accessories on)) has no power!!
The regulator act as a cold start function by speeding up the idle, this function decreases as the engine warms up.
This can only happen if power is supplied to the unit no power equals a sluggish rather laboured start up.
Note: I Have not ran it to operating temp yet as I'm unsure of the engine timing.
And lastly
The head unit had a very poor earth so I'm taking the negative from the light on the sugared lighter. As it's broken any way and running that. Hello white noise
So now it's time to run a separate wire to the regulator drone something along the lines neutral start switch maybe ?? (fitting an inline fuse of course) Or a fuel relay something that comes on with the accessories, also cutting the existing one just don't want to splice grime something miles away lol. Fit to the plug and away I go.
Also SIroller I had a look at that forum u mentioned now called caraudio.com.au good site but I have little to no ideas how to navigate that site (phone). Any way will take a more I depth look when I get time off on Monday or Tuesday what ever day I'm not working lol.
Thanks for the input
stay classy people!
---------- Post added 13-10-13 at 12:01 ----------
Xenon timing light on its way from Melbourne at a cost of $60 bucks, along with a new ignition module $90.
Bought a 3inch catalytic converter from a guy in Melbourne... It's taken over 3 months to get here so I can sadly say by by to $170 bucks. Dishonest people annoy me. But I have his details so I'll look into it further.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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28-10-13, 10:23 GMT+10#49 UPDATE...
Set the timing to 15 Deg. The dizzy is way out, looked at the timing belt and the timing bet is the cause. The white bar on the belt is 2 teeth left of the timing mark on the cam gear.
the revs are inconsistent when increasing revs (micro coughs that like it skips a beat lol) so I'm guessing timing and spark are to blame as she has plenty of fresh fuel.
Next little missions
replace timing belt with new t/b kit
Fit new water pump at the same time.
re-set timing
new spark plugs
test leads
Fit water temp gauge and sender pipe in top hose: I Didn't relay want to do this - as i dont like the look id rather it tapped into the or side of the rad but.
Need to Bleed the thing on flat ground as the radiator is above the lower bleed bolt trapping the air in the rad.
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29-10-13, 11:32 GMT+10#50 sucks about the cat. i've only been riped off on the led fuse rails so far. so i count myself pretty lucky. don't know if i've said it before but if you need any little bits and pieces hit me up i know its a pain to get parts and i've sent silly stuff like bumper bar mounts and centre console screw covers to nt and wa before. don't have much calais stuff but might be able to help out with those little fittings noone bothers to stock / advertise.
re all the elextrics good work. i sent mine to a guy who had all the gear to test it. error codes everywhere so pretty much everything was replaced. it runs perfectly now and i never have any issues.
also agree with yourself and MUS on attention to detail. the typical letdown is a car with tens of thousands of dollars spent on paint trim and engine but the rear upper bar moulds are broken because someone didn't have the eye for detil to go buy those end clips and screw the ends in. i see that all the time.
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31-10-13, 14:26 GMT+10#51 You sure the gearbox noise isn't just the throw out bearing? I reckon before you commit to an R33 box, maybe give the cogger that's in it now a fresh batch of oil and a new throwout bearing to see if that does the trick?
Given how much you've already done yourself, removing the box should be a cinch...
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31-10-13, 15:12 GMT+10#52 Worth a shot. I mean if the bearing has collapsed it would effect clutch pressure.
Iv read a thread on this forum about some one having simpler issues. The verdict was an input shaft was worn as the noise like a super charger was present until a gear was selected .
---------- Post added 31-10-13 at 15:15 ----------
Box has come up for $250 in good mic sound to good to be true but. It's out of a wreck. Owner said wants it gone needs the cash. But 250? R33det box Wtf
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31-10-13, 15:39 GMT+10#53 The input shaft problem is very common. If it makes a noise out of gear, but starts to go away the moment you touch the clutch pedal (not necessarily depress it) then there's a good chance that this is the case
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31-10-13, 22:53 GMT+10#54 Hope not
I have two problem one the obvious noise and two,
the failure of the clutch to separate from the engine peddle to the floor. Possibly: air in the line , faulty slave cylinder etc..
I'm guessing that who ever put this car to gather is not the sharpest tool in the shed.
It's a possibility. Iv heard and read tons of stuff on this and it's really hit and miss. One youtube video in particular, in which a you can hear the exact same noise mine makes
Link
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YWlK3sV...DYWl K3sVXPyk (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YWlK3sVXPyk&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DYWlK3sVXPyk)
(Ended up being the "TOB" throwout bearing)
In any case I think the idea you suggested is a good first step. Although twisting boxes under cars is a risky business especially in this climate.
I'm going to drop the box replace the clutch and TOB at the same time and see if that fixes it.
If the TOB is the problem then it will save me dropping the box to replace the clutch in the in the near future.
If the input is the cause then I'll drop the box and sell it and the clutch
---------- Post added 31-10-13 at 22:58 ----------
It Will be an honest sale. I don't sell dodgy stuff to people.
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01-11-13, 08:14 GMT+10#55 Clutch hydraulics is another fun one! If either hydraulic cylinder (slave or master) is busted then make sure you replace them both, anyway...
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01-11-13, 09:14 GMT+10#56 Yeah I love playing with peddle boxes there the best ! God hours of there.
See how it sounds after it's all fresh n back together
Items That will be replaced
New oil
spigot bush
Machined fly
Clutch and assembly
Throwout bearing with a little h/t grease
Now... If only I can get time of work. Got 7 days on 1 day off, then another two 12's.
Lots of thinking time...
---------- Post added 01-11-13 at 11:22 ----------
Was thinking could I replace the input shaft bearing, the one that sits behind the front bearing retainer plate (front of box)
I have both Gregorio's and Max Ellery's reaper manuals
Is this possible to do with out removing bell housing?
I have a healthy amount of tools, inc snap ring removers etc..
I'll post this question in a thread Im about to bump
Cheers
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14-12-13, 12:01 GMT+10#57 Update
Well been a while.
I finally got the timing correct after to attempts. Problem being the cam gear was retarded by the previous owner. Explaining why the dozy was so far advanced
Any way
Corrected that an reset the dizzy and it runs beautifully! No noise nice and quiet
As I'm in Perth I Picked up a boot lid, bonnet and nose cone for $200 in good condition so I'll be rocking the exec look in a few weeks when I ship the lot back home.
Iv cover the Interior door trim speaker holes with a custom stained pinewood cover over the carpet. Looks better and suits the blue dash.
Installed a water temp gauge (top hose probe) didn't want to as I like the factory look.guage reads 82 so happy days.
Next is front bars and gear box.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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03-01-14, 13:51 GMT+10#58 hey mate hope u all ok over there from the weather,
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01-02-14, 14:09 GMT+10#59 Quote:
Originally Posted by dougall83
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hey mate hope u all ok over there from the weather,
Yeah all good I was in Melbourn and Perth over new years but we left before the cyclone formed so no preparation for us .
It beat the hell out of the place.
We had the only two trees at our place come down in the front yard and over the back fence they had 2 trees uprooted as well.
the VL was sitting peacefully under a car cover below a shade-cloth car port. the cloth being suspended by long wooden rafters. lucky the shire had the car port completely rebuilt a few weeks before the cyclone hit or the old wooden beams would have come down for sure.
The car cover was still on the car lol
but all good lots of trees down and flying Kangaroos.
Seems your cars coming along nicely, sucks you had to take the box out to work your way round to finding the fault with the turbo. but its looking very good otherwise.
In other news I picked up a white boot lid, bonnet and exec nose cone for $250 in good condition need a clean and polish. the painfull part is that every freighting company wants over $700 to ship it up lol put the figures together and thats around $1000 and what is essential the price of a full donor car. still working on getting the numbers down.
also working on ways to bleed the car, but thats the way its always been with me n vl's.
I think i hold the record for most threads created in regards to bleeding vl cooling systems. I know far more than i should know on the subject.
look forward to seeing you throw that turbo in the mix soon.
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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01-02-14, 16:04 GMT+10#60 yeah mate, ill keep throwing photos up as I get more done. always hard to keep up progress with house payments, work n kids, blah blah , usual stuff,
are u gunna paint the whole car when its together? or just replace with same colour panels?
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