Can build a tough 4 speed if you speak to the right person Quote: Originally Posted by cava454 [View Post] U mean 3.9 manual, 3.7 auto. Jaycar Speedo Corrector kit fixes speedo issue. No, i mean what i said. Manuals have a slightly shorter overdrive. 3.73 for manual, 3.89 for auto.

In the book is there a difference between the 2 engines? VL and VS engine codes. So putting that manifold on it. I would then need to improve injectors, fuel pump ect.. From my understanding when you put boost threw a manifold doesn't really matter if its a std 1 or aftermarket. Due to the velocity the air is flowing threw. So I want really lose that much pwr.

Funny you said that I had 1 yrs ago n gave it to a mate. Never to be seen again.lol I will get another 1. Cheers

I owned a vs grange, same engine.. Beautiful car to drive. Went hard for what it was, had a fresh auto and all i did was reco the diff. When i did that it was a totally different car, chriping through 1st and 2nd and chirping when turning the wheel at low speed like a locker.

I know most of its covered in here in a few posts ill tie it up in one Differences are Harrop crank, Pistons, factory clearanced block for crank, blue top injectors and dark grey engine and rocker covers they made pretty much spot on there 215kw from factory Ie. around 215rwhp. I have done extractors twin 2.5 exhaust stock cats roller rockers and 70mm throttle and tune it made 231rwhp @ 5000rpm and 572Nm the 70mm throttle did stuff all up top but i felt a very small gain midrange very small wouldnt have bothered with it if it didnt cost me $10. If you saw my power curve you can see the manifold stops it making much more power past 4400rpm from there to 5000rpm the engine makes 3.5hp and is almost a flat line from 4400 till about 5400rpm goes to show the manifold is killing it big time as soon as your in the 4000rpm range you can even feel it on the road/track there is no point to me reving it out to 5500rpm when you can feel you go quicker shifting in the high 4000rpm range. It has been said by many of the tuners I have talked to that the factory tune is pretty good how ever when I got a tune done (Greenfoam tune) we couldnt get a gain up top but I felt a big gain down low from around 2000rpm to 3500rpm range by adding more timing the whole way through the rev range and we pushed it a little knowing I had the knock sensor and a spare chip to swap back to if it pinged results where more power right where you want it for road use and altered the lean cruise and overall got 50-70km more from a tank. The factory manifold is restricting that motor with zero mods using the right manifold has seen people gain 15-20% more power problem is there are few manifolds that cater to the low to mid range power person your main choices are the group A manifold or as Cava said a Torque power dual plane or if you can find a flowcraft manifold the torque power been the cheapest option unless you are super super lucky. Adding boost will help the issue and cover up the top end issues having said that you will still get a gain from a manifold change when its boosted. The pistons seem to not be the strongest in these when adding boost ive seen a few smash a piston or 2 with modest boost so id look at that when looking to boost it how ever the crank seems to do ok look on streetcommo for a VS GTS plates HAVIC stock harrop crank and making good power with a Vortech blower. The diff will be a Hydratrack if its factory stroker and its posibly already stuffed or be not far from it there not known for there high hp performance, there a luxury LSD and it operates by fluid been forced through it and once there stuffed there only good in the bin they frequently go one wheeler on corners (there designed like that) there used by alot of luxury car models helps 50 year old doctors not drift there astin martin when cornering in the wet, not fun in a performance setup when you need 2 wheel grip/drive when you need it. When there stuffed they will tend to single wheel all the time be carfull if you change the fluid in it there is a special fluid/oil for the hydratrack if you use normal oil they tend to single wheel instantly if there still any good. With the auto if your handy with tools and a little knowledge you can add a corvette servo and a higher boost valve around $100 in parts about a hour job and will firm it up alot will also see it chirp second with the extra apply area of the bigger piston makes a adverage auto feel fresh and tight again and hits that second gear harder

Out of curiosity what do these motors go for second hand?

Quote: Originally Posted by Ajvx01 [View Post] Out of curiosity what do these motors go for second hand? There is one on eBay at the moment going for $3800 but the range from 3-5K depending on Km's, condition and accessories included.

Quote: Originally Posted by Ajvx01 [View Post] Out of curiosity what do these motors go for second hand? you can have my vt gts engine for 2000 no accesories Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by GTS-213 [View Post] There is one on eBay at the moment going for $3800 but the range from 3-5K depending on Km's, condition and accessories included. Fark that. For that price buy my built long motor

Go 3.9's not 3.7's. I had mine done not long ago and it's HEAPS better. RPM's @ 100 went from about 1800 to 2100.

Well it's currently on the market for the last time on eBay. Will let it go for 5k no wheels. It's on eBay n the only stroker on there.

Quote: Originally Posted by NASTY1 [View Post] you can have my vt gts engine for 2000 no accesories I wasn't planning on buying anytime in the next 6 months sorry.. House first. But damn wish I could!! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.