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what does it take to crack a 9?

Started by wilson33 · 31 Dec 2009 · 103 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo. Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

wilson33Archived member
thats what i was staring to think. But i couldnt fins a single LS3 for sale, anywhere. Also 427ci is too big to legally swap. The LS3 is 383ci? standard i think and the biggest i can go is 411ci. I dont know if anyone even does a stroker for the LS3 to that particular size. anyone know if something like an LS3 is still a relatively light engine compared to say the 5L stroked to 355?
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MorgzArchived member
Who is going to check to see how many cubic inch your LS engine is? you can tell them anything, it all looks the same from the outside.
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WANKELArchived member
man, have you even driven a car with 10 second performance let alone 9?? a v8 making the power day in day out, you will kill youself on the way to the track with no experience, let alone on the track with slicks and a big stally...
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wilson33Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Morgz Who is going to check to see how many cubic inch your LS engine is? you can tell them anything, it all looks the same from the outside. well C.O.M.E do a 408ci stroker for the LS engines, so 3ci short of the max allowed, so sounds almost perfect.
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BONSVLArchived member
Like someone said before, who the f will be able to know how much cubic inch of displacement you have, other then stock, if you don't tell them? its not like they can just guess that ****. :P
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TheChadArchived member
you shouldnt write off the 2j, if you are intent on 9s it would probably cost less to get a good 2j dropped in than build a 26/30, since people are pushing 700rwhp+ out of a stock bottom end. also, nobody mentioned suspension? you will need the right suspension setup to run 10s, whilst not too expensive in the scheme of things (maybe ~1.5k installed) they will also make it more a c*** to drive on the street, 90/10s would be horrible for any kind of fast cornering. really if you havent started yet, there are a few cars coming up for sale that near completion/complete that could save you thousands, maybe even tens of thousands, you could add your own flavour to it as you finish and still have the car you want, at half the cost, i know you want to build your own car, coz it feels good etc, but at the end of the day, put two the same next to eachother and nobody cares when the finished product runs a 9, infact they seem more popular coz it keeps a known cars history alive...
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MorgzArchived member
you couldnt build a 9 second 2JZ for under 20k, even if you used a completely stock bottom end, turbo gear is very expensive, plus it's all EFI which makes things a lot more expensive compared to a carby v8. Gearbox, computer, fuel rail, injectors, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, exhaust, wastegate, turbo, cooler, piping, cams, oil pump.. plus being a 2JZ its not cheap gear. Having said that tho, the end result would be more streetable than a high hp na v8. A "RB26/30" is still a 20k-25k+ minimum excerise for the engine complete alone, and thats using a standard head with $800 rods and a normal A8 block.
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Red R VLArchived member
I built the engine in my GTR for 18K...runs 9.40's with only 29.6psi on radials and weighs 1470kg!. Turning the wick up today to shoot for 8's. With a 30 bottom end in RWD format in a VL it would work out a bit cheaper and with slicks be a little faster. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZPKs796tGA puts Boostn VL on the trailer at Compak Attak with a back off in the deep end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-GVeoMjXtQ A 26/30 would be the way to go in my opinion.
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INFLYTArchived member
I didn't realise TWO06L was that quick now! Is it still tuned by Godzilla Motorsports? Are you branching out into VL Turbo territory too?
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wilson33Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by TheChad really if you havent started yet, there are a few cars coming up for sale that near completion/complete that could save you thousands, maybe even tens of thousands, you could add your own flavour to it as you finish and still have the car you want, at half the cost, i know you want to build your own car, coz it feels good etc, but at the end of the day, put two the same next to eachother and nobody cares when the finished product runs a 9, infact they seem more popular coz it keeps a known cars history alive... Yes ive been considering buying an already done car. But i was worried about just buying into someone elses problems/already flogged out motor and then i have to deal with rebuilding it ect. If not a whole car i would even look at buying an already fully built driveline and drop it in to my shell.
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Red R VLArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by INFLYT I didn't realise TWO06L was that quick now! Is it still tuned by Godzilla Motorsports? Are you branching out into VL Turbo territory too? my wife own's a mint VL Berlina...grandma spec. We have just loaded the car in the trailer and are heading out to Willowbank. Yes Godzilla Motorsport is the tuner.
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richie$$Archived member
Mate if I was you and wanted to stay N/A , I'd look at a Ls2 L98. Cam , springs and tune only they are pulling 10's! If you dont believe me watch this..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tgNgqtrJNA Thats in a full weighted VE SS , how would it go in a VL , it can only go better and faster.
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wilson33Archived member
that is really what im thinking. Also an LS2/3 would come in cheaper than a fully built 355. that 355 morgz mentioned would cost me about $20K after gst + freighting the engine around. Can a powerglide be adapted to the LS engines? Or are the standard boxes out of the HSV's strong enough for what i want to do? heres a brand new LS2 for $5600, just need to find a HSV wreck or something and pull out a cheap 2nd hand one. http://holmart.com.au/online/prod1823.htm
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richie$$Archived member
I would go a Ls2 over the cost of a Ls3. Powerglide's bolt right up to the Ls motor. If you want auto , I would go a glide or if you want manual go the T56 box they are well price box. With the gilde it has to be a V8 glide , they are rare to find out there , but they are out there if people want to part with them. Yes a Ls2 would be a hole lot cheaper adn heaps heaps streetable. Have a look at the GM Motorsport YouTube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/GMMotorsport There is heaps of fast Ls2's. Also they are 6 speeds running these times as the new Auto is not strong enough yet. So To push a N/A 9 I'd look at a 2 speed glide with a nice convertor with transbrake. You would just about be there..... Also saving money by going a 26/30 & 2jz. Worse comes to worse if you dont hit a 9 you would be knocking right on the door of one!!
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wilson33Archived member
Has anyone done an LS2 into a VL before? Would be good to know before hand what need to be done to get it to fit, especially the trans. Are the LS2 any bigger than the LS1, how did you go getting the LS1 into the bay, much trouble fitting?
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richie$$Archived member
No Trouble at all. But I was turboing mine so it didnt matter. Best thing to do is call EFI Performance , Cammo who as a Turbo'd Monaro who works there dropped mine inn. But If I was you I would get custom engine mounts made. Coz off the shelf ones are **** house. For me I didnt care about off the shelf as I was running a front cross over pipe. It took like half a day to drop mine inn. Cammo has dropped them into a couple of VL's and VK's. So he know what he's doing.
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MICKYYYYArchived member
Some threads u should read and places where u can buy ur stuff from http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...&highlight=ls1 (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=142541&highlight=ls1) http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...&highlight=ls1 (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=142211&highlight=ls1) http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...&highlight=ls1 (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=179296&highlight=ls1) http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=162394 http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...ight=LS1+VB+VL (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=41307&highlight=LS1+VB+VL) http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbas...bGxzZWFy Y2g= (http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbase/format_search.php?Y2FfY2F0YWxvZ3VlLmluaSthbGxzZWFyY2g=) http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbas...bHNl YXJjaA== (http://www.castleauto.com.au/hs_dbase/format_search.php?ZWZpX2NvbXBvbmVudHMuaW5pK2FsbHNlYXJjaA==)
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richie$$Archived member
Just remember , Dont buy off the shelf engine mounts. Pay extra and get custom ones made up. It will make it so much easyier to run pipes past the steering rack!
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scaryrideArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Red R VL I built the engine in my GTR for 18K...runs 9.40's with only 29.6psi on radials and weighs 1470kg!. Turning the wick up today to shoot for 8's. With a 30 bottom end in RWD format in a VL it would work out a bit cheaper and with slicks be a little faster. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZPKs796tGA puts Boostn VL on the trailer at Compak Attak with a back off in the deep end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-GVeoMjXtQ A 26/30 would be the way to go in my opinion. Wow ! I love that 32 ! Exhaust and radials for a 9, that is jizz material right there !
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wilson33Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by richie$$ Just remember , Dont buy off the shelf engine mounts. Pay extra and get custom ones made up. It will make it so much easyier to run pipes past the steering rack! yeah thanks mate ill keep it in mind. I noticed you are in QLD, where would you recommend i get these custom engine mounts? Also what diff are you running with a turbo LS1? Would a VLT disc brake diff with full spool hole up to what i want?
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