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vlt cam choices

Started by NASTY1 · 10 Sept 2009 · 147 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts. View original archive ↗

i have a wade 818b in mine... 300rwkw on 22psi with a 5500 converter($1750 worth).
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Mine Where From Camtech And They Where Kelford Billet Cams......
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Sorry to butt in on your thread mate. But im just curious what people are paying for cams and when doing your cams are you changing all the head components to suit the cam or just lifter blocks?
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ive got a wade 818 in mine but its damaged from previous owner, and the lifters are worn out. im getting a crow tx2 sometime this week and new lifters to suit, but is it necessary to machine the lifter blocks to suit the cam?
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ask crow
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pmacArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by Munro- Sorry to butt in on your thread mate. But im just curious what people are paying for cams and when doing your cams are you changing all the head components to suit the cam or just lifter blocks? I have a wade 818b, machined lifter blocks, standard lifters and crow heavy duty double valve springs. The springs aren't a necessity but for high boost the bloke at wade said it wouldn't be a bad idea. Cam was $132 regrind, lifter blocks were $88 both items on an exchange basis. Valve springs were about $120 from memory
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RB30-POWERArchived member
highflow, standard turbo cam, 116mph in 1450kg car, lighter berlina or exec would be 120mph or so easy. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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_vendettaArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER highflow, standard turbo cam, 116mph in 1450kg car, lighter berlina or exec would be 120mph or so easy. wat other supporting mods does it have? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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RB30-POWERArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by _vendetta wat other supporting mods does it have? gtr injectors, 984 pump + surge, nistune + z32, avo stage 2 ic
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GRN-747Archived member
I've got the stage 3 crow cam, Is your head off? how far do you want to go with your head, if you want improvement i suggest you get some head work before you start throwing a cam in. Those cam retail for $300 to $350 some one quote on this, you'll also need a set of valve springs to suit, to get your seat pressure right, last thing you want is to pulling off heads again, valve spring set is round about $120 mark. you will need to face your lifter housing to suit. You can do all this without taking the head off, but again if you want improvement porting is the way to go.
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CotchArchived member
and out come the die grinders..
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theVLguyArchived member
Asif port work before a cam. a cam and springs will run you 10s easy without headwork
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NASTY1Archived member
yeah my motor is all out and in peices.at the moment i just wana get it back on the road ive just had a couple of set backs but slowly moving forward now found a new block.not keen on spending mega $$$$ on it just putting some forgies in it,reco head with a cam most probly the tighe cam seing i dont need valve springs etc but i still wana get a cam at a decent price and hopefully i dont run into any more dramas.
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CotchArchived member
Quote: Originally Posted by theVLguy Asif port work before a cam. a cam and springs will run you 10s easy without headwork asif you wouldnt want a ported head over a non ported, especially how its all ripped apart atm
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GRN-747Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by theVLguy Asif port work before a cam. a cam and springs will run you 10s easy without headwork That's your choice, on a way you go about your engine work. porting helps alot. Quote: Originally Posted by NASTY1 yeah my motor is all out and in peices.at the moment i just wana get it back on the road ive just had a couple of set backs but slowly moving forward now found a new block.not keen on spending mega $$$$ on it just putting some forgies in it,reco head with a cam most probly the tighe cam seing i dont need valve springs etc but i still wana get a cam at a decent price and hopefully i dont run into any more dramas. You did well, it's taking me 5 months for my head to come back from the engineers and I'm still waiting, or though i can't go whinging to them as I'm not paying for all the work I'm getting done. I only paid for for the studs and cam and valve springs. I even ported my exhaust manifold the flow rate on it now will make a huge improvement.
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MICK86VLArchived member
porting costs heaps, is hard to do yourself properly.....std heads flow pretty good, it's not an old holden ****ty cast iron head but each to their own.... good to see the power you made RB-30 POWER with a highflow, std cam, z32 nistune,gtr injectors, etc gives me some hope i'll be in the 250rwkw mark easy what psi was that? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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CotchArchived member
[QUOTE=MICK86VL]std heads flow pretty goodQUOTE] std heads flow around 120 - 125cfm i believe off top of my head. im not saying to go get a die grinder and start taking out chunks but even a half assed job will get you flowing around the 150-160cfm mark aslong as you kinda understand what your doing..
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GRN-747Archived member
You have to be very careful with rb30 head's if someone knows what there doing, water jackets are very close to both exhaust and inlet ports.
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CotchArchived member
thats true but before you get to the water jackets ud almost garuntee that the port will look like ****. bigger doesnt nesceraly mean better
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GRN-747Archived member
Quote: Originally Posted by MonsterGM thats true but before you get to the water jackets ud almost garuntee that the port will look like ****. bigger doesnt nesceraly mean better That's true too. i went to go see how my heads going i must say the throats on both exhaust and inlet are a big improvement, just wish they would hurry the **** up. I'm pretty sure if your doing home made jobs with a pencil grinder you'll end up making ports un even the flow rate will be up to ****.
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