so u replaced the whole dizzy? looks like i wont laugh...

Quote: Originally Posted by Blu3-Vl I see, so it connected to the alternator / starter motor loom? This bad boy? I got a loom off ebay the other day, the one in the pic ^^ Ill check for power to that relay tomorrow morning, will i need to replace the actual relay itself too to complete the circuit again? If its broken that is Yes, thats it. The relay must be in and it must be a changeover type relay. In it's normal state with the battery connected the right way, the relay is off. But power flows through the normally closed contacts of the relay to the injectors and ecu.

Well, i was reading a post about fusible links, AND if the injectos arent working, the orange cable wont be getting any electricity. BUT they are, and the reverse polarity relay thing has power going to it also, puzzled =[ thought it was my injectors not firing, but nope

Was following this, need to cancel out the ecu now. Quote: Originally Posted by someguy check that the injectors hav constant 12 valts going to them even when the car is turned off it is the orange wire if it doesnt then the fusable link has probly burnt out or something like that if it has then check that the ecu is giving the injectors a negative palse this is done by conecting a light to one of the injector plugs and cranking it over if it flickers then it is fine and it cancils the injector problem Does this mean a timing light gun thing?

let me kno how you go i would like to know the cause

Today i went over all the fusible links, and re did some connections as 2 wires where a bit fray. Injectors have cosntant 12v going to them All accesorries getting 12v. Im getting no spark now.... Tried putting in the whole other dizzy, no luck, changed coils over again, no luck. Tried plug 1 and 2, both no spark =[. Shatteredddddddddd When i go to crank the car im getting 10.3v going to the coil, then when i stop cranking she goes til 12v untill i turn her off. Something is wrong here right? Cas plug? as i should have rulled out cas with whole other dizzy Quote: Originally Posted by vl-nitron i relocated my battery to the boot in my vl turbo recently and tidied the wiring in the bay a bit and once i finished it all went to start it and no go so i stuffed around for a bit looking at wiring diagrams in the workshop manual and found out that the reverse polarity relay was hooked up wrong, well it was hooked up right to what the manual said but when i connected the earth of the relay to the body it wont start but when i disconnect the earth for the relay the car starts and runs fine has anyone had this problem before??? Would that stop me getting spark????? Where did my spark go =[ bad spark

well my car did exactly the same thing and it was an engine earthing prob sometimes it gets spark and other times none if u still have ur batt tray in the engine bay try put it bak to see if its ok again

Nah there was no tray when i got her thats why i got it relocated to begin with. Guess ill attack the earths tommorow. thanks for your help btw

ah fair enough and its all good man i love tackling probs lol

run a 0 gauge earth from the -tv battery to the block???? sounds lyke bad earth??? kaino!!

To create a better connection, what i have done is clean the **** out of the rail, and bolted a 0 gauge basicly to where the panhard rod is so its a nice earth through the entire chassis, i then connected the existing -tv terminals to that, leaving the start motor loom earthed to the block. STILL NO SPARK No luck, my mate is certain its the coil, but whats the chances of 2 coils not working? Can you test the coil by disconencting the dizzy plug that connectos to it from the dizzy and seeing if it sparks? Also tried another ECU, no differnece. Spark is lostttt Went and got a new reverse polarity relay thing today, REPCO didnt have it, and Penfold parts in burwood, are lets say RETATED, they're not even sure if they sold me the right part (althoough i can return it if its not) Once again, what are the chances of my alarm causing the problem? Have tried starting it with alarm on and off, same ****. (ummm immobolizer should not let it crank when alarm is on right?)

immobiliser usually stops ur fuel pump and yes thats how u check ur coil well thats how i checked mine im certian this is an earth prob so to get this right u have your negative of the batt to the body in the boot and wat do u mean by rail u should have earthed it on one of thr engine mount bolts then a clean rust free spot on the body in the bay area keep me updated if its easier for u i can giv u a call easier to explain then

Battery +ve bolted to the starter motor -ve bolted to the right wheel arch (yes to metal) Existing terminals from battery in the engine bay +ve to a solandoid which is then connected to the starter motor. -ve Connected to a 0 gauge wire which is bolted to the rail under the car, on the panhard rod bracket. (nicely cleaned connection, to metal) Starter motor loom +ve obviously to the starter motor and alternator -ve Bolted to the engine mount (nicely cleaned connection to metal) Quote: Originally Posted by MonstaS4 Yes, the body is earthed but the quality of the earth is poor. Most of the body is joined together with small spot welds with heaps of joint sealer in and around it. In low voltage, high current applications, a small increase in resistance is multiplied into a large voltage drop.....do the maths using the voltage divider rule: Vout = Vin x R2/(R1+R2) where- Vout = voltage measured from the earth point at the block, to the battery -ve Vin = battery voltage = 12v R1 = starter motor resistance = 0.15 for an average starter motor R2 = resistance of earth cable & connections. Firstly, assume perfect earth cable & connections = 0 ohms Vout = 12 x 0/(0.15+0) Vout = 0, therefore the full battery voltage of 12v is seen across the starter motor. Now assume we have a poor earth connection = 1 ohm Vout = 12 x 1/(0.15+1) Vout = 10.43v So this means 10.43v is dropped across the earth cable which leaves only 1.57v across the starter motor!! Any wonder it won't turn over!! Still think a good earth is pointless and a waste of money........ Spot on with explanation i think with the **** earths. When i try to crank the car i only get 10.6v on the coil, then when i stop trying to crank will go to twelve. I re-did alot of connections yesterday incase it was getting steady connection anywhere, one fusible link connection was pritty ****ed.

hmmm so maybe try run a straight negative wire to the block????

alright dude if you've got no spark and you've ruled out the immobilizer it can only be one/some of these things CAS / CAS connection PT (power transistor) which is rare to fail however i've had 2 fail on me ECU Plugs / leads (u'd need all to fail at the same time so i doubt it) Wiring Harness (Dude good luck) include's earthing's fuses and relays Coil (fail fairly often) Fusible links (as already said) and lastly power from the battery If u need an entire diagnostic procedure msg me and i'll send u one hope this helps *NOTE* i once saw a vl that had no spark till the afm was changed then it had spark i'm still not exactly sure how that worked.

Yeah send it too me, may aswell. But as you can see I've replaced the majority of those things listed. Guess ill have to pick up some 0 gauge to run to the block from the battery, no time till the weekend though =[ Got a mate coming past tomorrow while im at work, to have a look. And another coil is coming past tommrow night too, wait and see. Quote: Originally Posted by Kursed alright dude if you've got no spark and you've ruled out the immobilizer it can only be one/some of these things CAS / CAS connection - DONE PT (power transistor) which is rare to fail however i've had 2 fail on me - Done, swapped both transistors and tried with each dizzy ECU - Done Plugs / leads (u'd need all to fail at the same time so i doubt it) - All new, spark doesnt make it to here though so not the problem Wiring Harness (Dude good luck) include's earthing's fuses and relays - CRIES =[ Coil (fail fairly often) - Tried both the coils on the calais, both work Fusible links (as already said) - redid some connections on existing loom, getting mechanic to swap it tommorow with a GREAT conidion one tommrow and lastly power from the battery - New battery AFM - Changed Reverse polarity relay - New one, and the one from the new starter motor wiring harness i got ALARM / Immobilizer - PUT IN a week before the relocation - Cranks when alarm is off, once alarm is on, no crack so immobolizer is working correctly. I've had enough, called the guy up today and hes organising to have it picked up tommrow, reallly wondering WHAT THE ****KKKKKKK it is.

Where were you measuring the voltage at the coil? Straight across the 2 coil terminals or from 1 of the terminals to earth? If you were measuring straight across the coil terminals, 10.3v is probably about right. The remaining 1.7v would be dropped across the power transistor as it is in series with the coil. Go back to basics. Put a screwdriver against an injector and against your ear while someone cranks it over. You should hear a definate 'click, click, click' if the injectors are pulsing. If not, either you have no signal from the CAS or the ECU is faulty. If the injectors are pulsing, you have a coil, power transistor, wiring or ECU fault.

pluged a multimeter into the top pin of the coil plug, and earthed it on the 0 gauge connected to the rail, cranked it and she was hitting 10.3 ima say wiring issue as ive replaced everything else you have mentioned.

I'd be interested to see what voltage you get if you ran a 'trailing lead' from battery -ve to the multimeter earth lead while checking the coil. This will tell you straight up if you have an earth problem.

lol but now they're on complete oppisote ends of the car =[