While cranking

had a auto elec come out over the weekend and spend 6 hours testing/playing with it no luck in getting it to run though tested all the computer and what not following the factory ECCS test guide all was fine excpet the computer was only getting 7.8>8V when cranking not cranking it was at the usual 12.8>13V the car was also cranking slow so he tested the power on the starter system and there was no prob there so thinking it was possibly the engine could have been semi seized or enough to cause the engine to be too tight we tryed tow starting it behind my mates vyss to remove the starter from the equasion but it wouldnt run the engine does turn over a little easyer now, there is no injector pulse when its cranking as the power is getting drained we proved also by getting it to run on start ya ******* for a few secs tryed 3 batterys on the system at once, one on the starter, one for the igniton and one jumping but still the power drained any more ideas?????? its really getting too me now, so frustrating and its hard trying to do this on a apprentices wage GRRRR!!!

hey man as you might / might not know i've been chasing the same problem, but no quite as bad as yours. I changed the starter motor yesturday to try it and its started everytime so far. it's like it's drawing out all the amps on crank and its cutting out the injectors so it wont flood engine with fuel on a low voltage. something like that anyway lol give it a go if you got a spare just reread your post. i changed the battery harness with one without the metal reverse relay and it made no difference.

Quote: Originally Posted by vltnitron hey man as you might / might not know i've been chasing the same problem, but no quite as bad as yours. I changed the starter motor yesturday to try it and its started everytime so far. it's like it's drawing out all the amps on crank and its cutting out the injectors so it wont flood engine with fuel on a low voltage. something like that anyway lol give it a go if you got a spare just reread your post. i changed the battery harness with one without the metal reverse relay and it made no difference. Cheers for the help mate, any help is a plus yer i have got a spare starter, a genuine bosch one and a new aftermarket one from u pull it swapped them many times but no luck infact the starter was getting really hot after a few long cranks in with in a few minutes would a NA computer run Turbo injectors??? ive swapped the computers (old comp) too see if it wasnt my turbo comp that is stuffed didnt run or would that be because it cant physically do it? the reverse relay in the loom, i noticed in u pull it that a few cars didnt have it where it was ment too be is there two diffrent looms?? any reason why Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

will still run with turbo injectors on na ecu just run rich

there is 2 looms but i have no idea why. if mine starts playing up again i'll be changing the loom

Quote: Originally Posted by legal6 had a auto elec come out over the weekend and spend 6 hours testing/playing with it no luck in getting it to run though tested all the computer and what not following the factory ECCS test guide all was fine excpet the computer was only getting 7.8>8V when cranking not cranking it was at the usual 12.8>13V the car was also cranking slow so he tested the power on the starter system and there was no prob there so thinking it was possibly the engine could have been semi seized or enough to cause the engine to be too tight we tryed tow starting it behind my mates vyss to remove the starter from the equasion but it wouldnt run the engine does turn over a little easyer now, there is no injector pulse when its cranking as the power is getting drained we proved also by getting it to run on start ya ******* for a few secs tryed 3 batterys on the system at once, one on the starter, one for the igniton and one jumping but still the power drained any more ideas?????? its really getting too me now, so frustrating and its hard trying to do this on a apprentices wage GRRRR!!! If the voltage is being pulled down only when cranking, then it HAS to be either: faulty batteries, poor power/earth cables or connections to the starter, faulty starter motor. I'm interested to know how he "tested the power on the starter system and there was no prob there". If you've got the battery in the boot, i'd bet your left nut that it's a poor earth connection.

Have you gone back to the easy stuff like checking for air intake or exhaust blockages. you havn't had a rag or something stuffed in the intercooler then forgot about it or something like that?? put the afm straight onto the throttle body and try it. It seems that if it was electrical you would have found it by now. but i would also run good new earths averywhere.

scrap my comments up above, it was back to it's old tricks again this morning. I'm sure its something to do with low voltage at the ecu. might be in fuse box, ignition relay wiring

well been a while since ive looked here so a little update car went down and saw John Keen at hi tech and he came too the conclusion the motor was siezed so ended up getting a vl wagon which was running and took the motor out of that when i removed the flywheel on my engine i didnt need too stop the crank from turning, i could undo the bolts with a big breaker bar but when i put it on the new engine the crank turned over so just need to fit a few more things on the car and should be ready too try starting again Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

car runs now, need to get timing set to run perfect, although have a oil leak from the oil feed