heres some pics of my thing my old man did it in the backyard he does backyarders so if any one needs work done let me know mainly repairs http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4308/img0161l.jpg http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9366/img0102ppc.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/4830/img0105n.jpg http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1994/img0106s.jpg

Quote: Originally Posted by Stelios heres some pics of my thing my old man did it in the backyard he does backyarders so if any one needs work done let me know mainly repairs http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4308/img0161l.jpg http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9366/img0102ppc.jpg http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/4830/img0105n.jpg http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1994/img0106s.jpg is that acrylic or 2pac FATPSI is this what the buffer looks like http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ryobi-Car-Pol...7C240%3A131 8 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ryobi-Car-Polisher-ECP-130-Hardly-used_W0QQitemZ290302733584QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Power_Tools?hash=item290302733584&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)

nah, those buffs are pretty ****ty, they look like a grinder but are an adjustable buff, thats why i made the statement about the grinder

2 pac.....

Quote: Originally Posted by FATPSI nah, those buffs are pretty ****ty, they look like a grinder but are an adjustable buff, thats why i made the statement about the grinder ah ok i got ya , ill have a look at bunnings tommorow cheers mate to paint 2 pack in a garage what needs to be done to prepare it i was going to get plastic drop sheets and vacaum the whole garage im doing a colour change so i was going to paint doors. boot. bonnet and guards seprate

http://www.ryobi.com.au/Products/Pow...isher-Kit.aspx (http://www.ryobi.com.au/Products/Power-Tools/Corded/Grinders/Angle-Grinder-Sander-Polisher-Kit.aspx) thats the one i have

sweet as dude thanks

putting down wet blankets on the floor will help with dust n **** if spraying in a shed, but will till be a good chance of getting dust n **** in the paint you'll get mixed responses with home paint jobs... alot of ppl will say its very possible to get a good result with a few basic guidlines to follow, others will say no chance and dont bother as it will just end up costing more lol only way to know if it will workout forsure for you is start painting scrap metal and see how it goes. if your happy with the results your getting on the smaller ****, go for it. but do ALOT of reading, then do some more lol

i've done a few jobs at home, ask at your local paint shop, they will know who hires booth's in your area they generally charge about $150 for 3 hrs so that may be another option. You don't want to fully seal the area your painting in or the overspray can't escape and it will settle on the roof boot and bonnet. use duct tape and tarps to make your booth or if you use platic buy a poly roll (like drop sheets but in a big roll) with the special backing that overspray sticks too. They come in a box are 100m long and 4.8m wide, there about $50 but a million times better than drop sheets. GPI and blackline make good ones. Wet the floors roof walls etc with a hose to get rid of dust i the area, then set up the booth. Just before you paint wet down the floor to reduce dust and the overspray that settles on the floor will be easier to remove. If you have a roller door leave it up about 20cm to give you some air and to help suck out the overspray, as it only open a bit anything that blows in if at all is quite low and shouldn't get in the job. Paint in the middle of the day, not in the evening when bugs are around, and do it on a nice still day so things don't blow around onto the job. Buy a air blower and blow over the car before you paint and between each coat. Oh and buy a few tack cloths and tack between every coat (after each coat let flash off for 20 mins or so then run the tack cloth over the whole lot) then do another coat. Lastly, buy a air water seperator, you can get wall mounted ones for about $75 or ones for the airline for about $10, any condensation in the compressor should be picked up by these and not come out thru the gun

lol you make it sound easy dave

thanks for the info . very helpful ill give it a go with some test panels and take it from there

it comes from explaining it on a daily basis lol. The trick is to not over think it, i usually have a beer or two before i paint something big, helps if its been a while since i waved the gun around so i don't over think it settles any nerves. Trick is to relax if your rushing to get something painted by a certain time thats when you usually muck something up, take your time

Quote: Originally Posted by FATPSI it needs to be blocked down afterwards with 1500 or 2000 wet or dry then machine buffed. Another benifit of acrylic is you can put on heaps of clear as it dries very quickly. don't spray to dry it creates more work when rubbing it back, and if its to dry you'll never get a good shine out of it. When using acrylic a good cutters is as important as the quality of the paint, i'd suggest using farecla G3. Use a WHITE foam buff pad, the yellow pads are to course and can easily bite in or burn the paint. Let it cure for a week or 2 minimum before cutting as this gives it more curing time. Mist the panel with a water spray bottle like hair dressers use, reduces heat in the panel and decreases the risk of burning the paint. Also use a variable speed buff, bunnings sell the ryobi ones for about $110, great buffs for the money and have a 3yr warrenty (i have one myself as do alot of customers of mine), start off on speed one and move up, don,t go past about speed 3 or 4 at the worst. NEVER USE AN ANGLE GRINDER THEY SPIN WAY TO FAST! Then finish it off with a nice finishing wax/ pad glaze. I use 3m 05996 foam pad glaze or Malco flash wax, both great finishing products i went to a guy that buffs cars for a living, he said if i can live with it, dont buff it for upto 6 months? what do you think of that, my car was painted in JAN and still hasnt been buffed... getting close though.... its got SFA shine, and you cant see the pearl in it... will it become more distinct and be able to see it better after it gets buffed? i want the car to chagne color

Quote: Originally Posted by MaD_WoG i went to a guy that buffs cars for a living, he said if i can live with it, dont buff it for upto 6 months? what do you think of that, my car was painted in JAN and still hasnt been buffed... getting close though.... its got SFA shine, and you cant see the pearl in it... will it become more distinct and be able to see it better after it gets buffed? i want the car to chagne color he's spot on, acrylic releases solvents for up to 6 months after painting, most people can't wait that long, 2 weeks is the minimum i'd leave it. Alot of people block it down after a few weeks give it a light buff, then rebuff it properly after 6 months or so. And yes when its buffed the pearl should be more noticable (you went pearl over the top of the std colour yeah?) if not i'd say he didn't use enough, to fix that you just flatten the clear again with grey scotchbrite and add more then reclear it, effectively like flow coating the job

Quote: Originally Posted by FATPSI he's spot on, acrylic releases solvents for up to 6 months after painting, most people can't wait that long, 2 weeks is the minimum i'd leave it. Alot of people block it down after a few weeks give it a light buff, then rebuff it properly after 6 months or so. And yes when its buffed the pearl should be more noticable (you went pearl over the top of the std colour yeah?) if not i'd say he didn't use enough, to fix that you just flatten the clear again with grey scotchbrite and add more then reclear it, effectively like flow coating the job the whole car had 2 layers of pearl (straight pearl mixed with thinners) then had clear over the top... on the curves (wheel arches, calais front and edges) it had an extra 3 layers...

Quote: Originally Posted by FATPSI it comes from explaining it on a daily basis lol. The trick is to not over think it, i usually have a beer or two before i paint something big, helps if its been a while since i waved the gun around so i don't over think it settles any nerves. Trick is to relax if your rushing to get something painted by a certain time thats when you usually muck something up, take your time well with taking time im giving my self around 3-4 months to have it compelte its not great rush as ive got a daily to get to work and back oh i spotted that polisher you were talking about $118, so ill be grapping that when the rudd money comes thru and one other thing should i need to clear. if im using a solid colour

no its not essential but as its a red, i would, it will protect the colour from fading quicker and at about $50 for 4 litres it won't break the bank

im doing a colour change from red to yellow. but im guessing samr things applys ??? you were explaning you can buy special plastic sheets??. do you know of anywhere in the bayswater area that might sell this ??? and the door hinge kit. you said you sell at your work where are you located cheers Allan

I work at body shop in thomastown, live in north balwyn near doncaster, i can organise it for you to pick up from my house after work, i give discounts to all ct members. There is also a bodyshop in dorset rd bayswater, speak to ozzy, say you know dave from bodyshop thomo he should look afer you, they sell the same stuff there just ask for the blackline poly roll in the box and a door pin removal tool

ok great is the paint shop in bayswater near enzed ???