Im no tuner but having a squiz between yours and std rb30et tune you have very low timing in middle load section of map from idle to full revs, have a look at std map shape. Also on map shape for fuel (ignoring injector size n maf) you have tons of fuel in high rpm across most of the load range but not much in high load areas of the mid to low rpm section. Maybe this is to do with your histall and you don't access these areas much. Anyways thats my 2c (don't forget i am def not a tuner but making observations that may be helpful) On a side note maybe ppl with nistune should post up their maps with car specs so we could have a library of different tunes to give ppl a starting point when starting to play. (I assume matt would agree to having his nistune binaries freely downloadable?) One other thing fuel cut maybe your throttle switch not coming on from memory you had to adjust it cos it was on too much, check a log and see if switch is coming on when backing off cos should cut instantly.

Bretts, great observations and thanks for the constructive comments! Quote: Originally Posted by Bretts Im no tuner but having a squiz between yours and std rb30et tune you have very low timing in middle load section of map from idle to full revs, have a look at std map shape. yep there's still heaps of work to be done on the timing map. I'll need to work out which columns equate to which columns in the stock map and copy accross part of the map, and make up the rest from there. Quote: Originally Posted by Bretts Also on map shape for fuel (ignoring injector size n maf) you have tons of fuel in high rpm across most of the load range but not much in high load areas of the mid to low rpm section. Maybe this is to do with your histall and you don't access these areas much. The top left (high rpm, low load) never gets accessed, and bottom right (low rpm, high load) also doesn't really get accessed. The boost transition happens just shy of half way across the load, from about 3500rpm onwards. Once I have the car runing happily across the accessed cells, I intend on smoothing out the rest of them accordingly in case they ever happen to be accessed. The 'dialled' AFR's are a bit whack, however this seems to be the happiest medium I could find for getting the right mixtures out the pipe. I've juggled the k val and latency around heaaps, and this seems to be where it's most happy. - I spoke to a guy who reckons there was a siemmens injector with a spray pattern that makes it very difficult to tune. Apparently they were similar in model, size, and date of production to the ones I'm running . I'm also having a bit of an issue with too rich while spooling, and too lean once spooled, for about half a second - before stabilising at a happy AFR. - it's just hard to track this on the street due to so many variables - and especially when you can't reliably put your foot down and hold it there (wheelspin, speed etc) so will be heading back to the dyno in the next week or two. Quote: Originally Posted by Bretts One other thing fuel cut maybe your throttle switch not coming on from memory you had to adjust it cos it was on too much, check a log and see if switch is coming on when backing off cos should cut instantly. I'm speaking to Matt about this via email - the TPS switch seems to be running ace at the moment, only switching when throttle is 100% off. Viewing the logs, it definately lights the 'TPS' light when i've backed off after a run, and regardless of fuel cut RPM, it still overfuels I don't have a speed signal plugged into the ecu at the moment, I'm trying to find out whether speed is a condition of fuel cut - if so, then it would explain the issue! I'm aiming to have these issues and the alternator issue sorted out by next weekend, hopefully in time to organise some dyno time!... or just handing it over to someone that knows what they're doing to have a crack at it before I blow something up Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

99% sure u need the speed sensor to activate fuel cut, so it only happens when u are moving and possibly above a certain speed

great write up, excellent input from everyone. what sized alt. you going? and what's it off?

Ok had a look at holden manual last night: Fuel cut dependant on rpm, speed, temp, idle contact. Will only get fuel cut if over 8km/h. Fuel cut table will reduce injector pulsewidth to minimum if engine rpm ABOVE the table line for that temp. Manuals have a higher cut & recover rpm. Fuel recover table brings fuel back online once engine rpm (for that temp) is BELOW the line. So definately gonna have to crawl under and fix ya vehicle speed sensor to get any cut. Interesting is manuals have a 2 stage cut (3 cyl after .3 sec then rest after another .3sec) whereas autos cut all after .6sec.

Quote: Originally Posted by Bretts Ok had a look at holden manual last night: Fuel cut dependant on rpm, speed, temp, idle contact. Will only get fuel cut if over 8km/h. Fuel cut table will reduce injector pulsewidth to minimum if engine rpm ABOVE the table line for that temp. Manuals have a higher cut & recover rpm. Fuel recover table brings fuel back online once engine rpm (for that temp) is BELOW the line. So definately gonna have to crawl under and fix ya vehicle speed sensor to get any cut. Interesting is manuals have a 2 stage cut (3 cyl after .3 sec then rest after another .3sec) whereas autos cut all after .6sec. Beat me to it! I fixed up the speed sender last night, and now getting fuel cut .... my fuel economy has just doubled! lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

whats it at now???

20/21psi spike, then down to about 18psi (figures are approx - it's very difficult to look at the boost gauge while trying to keep the car straight), 13 deg timing, running BP ultimate 98. Hoping for some dyno time next week/weekend to get some power figures and get the tune spot on, getting a lean spike (13.x:1) just as it comes onto boost. I doubt it will happen - but i REALLY want to crack the 300rwkw mark on a dead stock bolt on motor and pump fuel. - I think valve springs and such will let me down though.... Hopefully I'm wrong. Maybe I should BYO mop, bucket and tarp to the dyno Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

very nice write up..

got any pics of your setup? sounds pretty good

going very well so far mate. keep up the good work

Quote: I doubt it will happen - but i REALLY want to crack the 300rwkw mark on a dead stock bolt on motor and pump fuel. - I think valve springs and such will let me down though.... Hopefully I'm wrong. Hrmm, with my old standard turbo bottom end, we pushed it with dead standard head, wade cam, standard springs to run 11.1@121mph on straight pump fuel, however... it made 360rwhp to run that time on that particular dyno. When i finally broke that engine after thrashing it for so long, when i took the cam out, 4 of the lifters were smashed to bits on the tops where the rocker arms contact, the metal was thru the sump, thru the oil pump and more than likely everywhere else it shouldnt have been and i cant think of any other reason other than not having springs for this. The car never ever had noisy lifters, but when i broke that engine, other than the rings falling out of #5 piston cause they were broken, it was the next most significant thing that I have no idea how long it must have been like that for. Apparently changing the springs is not even very expensive and u can get a tool to do it urself.. on the car.. so may pay to give that a go before goin all out to make the big numbers.. best of luck mate !!

Great to see such good results with std n/a motor! any pics of the setup/updates :]

You can change springs in the car, need to take out plugs though and fill the bores with compressed air, do it one by one cheers darren

quick update getting all the little bits and pieces sorted out, and have booked some dyno time for october 4th @ status tuning in dandenong (who are familiar with nistune! - yay) - the guys there seem quite happy to crank up the boost on a stock motor and seeing what happens! lol but they seem to tune drift cars and seem to do a respectable job! so at the moment 1) sorting out the speed sender signal (i need to divide the pulses that are coming from the box - ecu cuts fuel when it hits 500km/h lol) 2) waiting for an R33 alternator to arrive in the mail, hopefully it'll fix my fuel pump + thermos issue 3) replacing valve-springs with brand new stock ones, to keep with the stock engine theme - plus i have a banger engine almost ready to go on the stand so i'm not wasting cash on two sets of decent springs. 4) as per exchaser's advice I'll check the lifters and stuff while i'm doing the valve springs - will take some happy snaps if i find any fun damage and a pic of the setup: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ohhhh the motors in a vp, i didnt even realise till now haha, looks f n sexy under the bonnet! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

woah nice man setup looks mint. wouldnt expect that under the bonnet. was it hard to fit the motor in there????

cheers guys! the bay might look pretty but the outside is ****ty old faded phoenix red lol! - one day I'll paint the rest of the car candy, but until it runs a 10 I have more important things to spend money on engine and trans went in no problem - even the trans x member lines up! ... same with the exhaust! the stock VL n/a extractors bolt right up to the stock position of the VN cat converter!!! tailshaft was a front/rear half join operation.. and it was done! no engineers cert. required to get it regged either! - all bolt in, no welding/alterations to sub frame, similar powered motor.. and they meet the same ADR emissions requirements! the only small catch is that it gets a bit tight around the back of the head against the firewall - i don't think I'll be able to run head studs on the good motor, unless i'm willing to pull the motor to do a headgasket if it ever happens. Thinking about it - it would be just as easy to bolt in an rb25 or rb26!... and it would be legal too (so long as the engine was stock)! - would be a good project for anyone that's bored and has a front-cut lying around. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i thought older motors in newer cars was a no no, but as you said if they both meet the same ADR emissions then it should be fine? Quote: Originally Posted by vp_luke cheers guys! the bay might look pretty but the outside is ****ty old faded phoenix red lol! - one day I'll paint the rest of the car candy, but until it runs a 10 I have more important things to spend money on engine and trans went in no problem - even the trans x member lines up! ... same with the exhaust! the stock VL n/a extractors bolt right up to the stock position of the VN cat converter!!! tailshaft was a front/rear half join operation.. and it was done! no engineers cert. required to get it regged either! - all bolt in, no welding/alterations to sub frame, similar powered motor.. and they meet the same ADR emissions requirements! the only small catch is that it gets a bit tight around the back of the head against the firewall - i don't think I'll be able to run head studs on the good motor, unless i'm willing to pull the motor to do a headgasket if it ever happens. Thinking about it - it would be just as easy to bolt in an rb25 or rb26!... and it would be legal too (so long as the engine was stock)! - would be a good project for anyone that's bored and has a front-cut lying around. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

vp luke, was this at c4c?