Yeah all the bolts have snapped haha in the rear house. Rear housings even cracked at the waste gate hole.

Quote: Originally Posted by wandin54 Yeah all the bolts have snapped haha in the rear house. Rear housings even cracked at the waste gate hole. HEAPS of t3s have a crack across where the wastegate flap closes. Mine's had a small one since I got it, no issues. Getting those bolts out isn't going to be fun :|

Quote: Originally Posted by wandin54 no im not changing my headgasket. and im sure it will start if i leave it in too. im not tryin to pull 9's. we clear on that? i just want a turbo cause im over my na after a month of driving it. and all i asked was how long and wat was the hardest bit about it cause im doing it myself and i want everyones opinion on how they did things. jus so i could avoid problems when i got to them. the only problem so far is you. any ideas anyone? yeah im sure i will be spraying mine lots cause they look very old haha oh well. When i was a first year mechanic 4 years ago i went about a turbo conversion as i was over the na power. Where it all went wrong... Low wage = doing things on the cheap. The conversion itself is pretty simple. However i left the standard headgasket. The car was tunned at 12psi 6 months later i blew the headgasket. I left the standard diff. I blew that to peices in less than 3 months. And to top it off i blew a nA gearbox up as well. Lesson learnt... The expensive way is the cheapest in the end. I now own vl with tripple the power of my first one. Is a hell of a lot more reliable and sure it cost a hell of a lot more. Not trying to put you off but what other people are trying to tel lyou is based on past experience to try and prevent you a headache some of us have been through. You can use a decompression plate which arn't that crash hot either. Be using very low boost if i was you.

Quote: Originally Posted by rusty577 How is that the hardest part , The manifolds are easy to take on n off. Hardest part would be removing the dump pipe bolts if they havn't been off in yrs they snap in the turbo rear housing. Well, I didn't have to do that. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by dragme When i was a first year mechanic 4 years ago i went about a turbo conversion as i was over the na power. Where it all went wrong... Low wage = doing things on the cheap. The conversion itself is pretty simple. However i left the standard headgasket. The car was tunned at 12psi 6 months later i blew the headgasket. I left the standard diff. I blew that to peices in less than 3 months. And to top it off i blew a nA gearbox up as well. Lesson learnt... The expensive way is the cheapest in the end. I now own vl with tripple the power of my first one. Is a hell of a lot more reliable and sure it cost a hell of a lot more. Not trying to put you off but what other people are trying to tel lyou is based on past experience to try and prevent you a headache some of us have been through. You can use a decompression plate which arn't that crash hot either. Be using very low boost if i was you. yeah man i know what ya sayin. i will be running 12 psi hopefully. im not using the standard diff i got a lock diff. i dont know what ill do about the box though. cross that bridge when it comes around

Quote: Originally Posted by dragme However i left the standard headgasket. The car was tunned at 12psi 6 months later i blew the headgasket. 12psi on highcomp, and the standard gasket lasted 6months? Thats pretty good man! Howd you blow the diff?

Dragracing... Legally at the track Quote: Originally Posted by wandin54 yeah man i know what ya sayin. i will be running 12 psi hopefully. im not using the standard diff i got a lock diff. i dont know what ill do about the box though. cross that bridge when it comes around Yeh but what sort of diff is it?? IS it the standard 25 spline open wheeler that you have locked or is it a 28 spline diff? If its a 25 spline diff and its locked its a ticking time bomb also have fun in the wet. For your gearbox if its auto.. Regular auto filter and oil changes and invest in a tranny cooler to lower temps, last time i bought one they were around the $120-$150 mark. ECU should be changed along with your injectors. ECU is easily identified by a green sticker for NA and a orange sticker for turbo saying either 3tm or 3ta depending on gearbox.

yeah mate i got a vlturbo ecu and everything. i went and got a quote on a fully rebuilt and strengthend jatco, fully manualised. $2200 with a 2800 stall. i dont think its worth it. haha. if im gonna spend that much on a tranny i mayaswell go that much with everything. and the diff is a disc to disc 25spline.