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How To Recondition Power Window Motors.

Started by VL 88 WA vbmenu_register("postmenu_1466362", true); · 4 July 2007 · 68 replies

Preserved from CalaisTurbo (partial recovery). Original authors and dates are shown; archived members are not current Holdcom accounts.

Sure. I charge $50 per pulley. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Quote: Originally Posted by Niche This is an excellent thread, I've been living with a stuck rear window on my VLCT for ages, I cant repair mine yet as the steel cable has broken so was going to cut a thread for a grub screw so I could clamp the end in and take it from there. Might have to move one of the idle wheels as my cable is now shorter but will give it a go next week when I have the time, its been on my longer todo list for so long now and yeah recon the motors is a great thing, I would suggest also using some of the Lucas thickener stuff as well for long term lubrication. But I will take a closer look at it when my projects for the week are done, got to get it fixed as my two boys think I have a screw loose that I can do other things but not fix my f.arking window ! Thanks for the reminder, more later Can you expand more on the Lucas thickener ? The only thing I could find online was their red and tacky grease, any good ?
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hey peeps just wana know, do the power windows fit into EXEC doors?? or do i need to put the whole doors on as i bought doors with power windows in e, i wana know if its better to just put the whole doors on and paint etc if the exec doors are diff
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The doors are all identical. However, if your VL was built without power options, it will not have the holes necessary in the doors and chassis to pass the wiring between them. This can be an extremely arduous task (believe me, I did it) - you'll need to take your front guards off to be able to drill the holes, and you'll need a decent hammer drill to get through the steel of the chassis (and a large drill bit, like 20mm). Either way, you need to drill holes in the chassis.
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Great thread, my windows are showing thier age so might be a good time while the car is in the shed for some time to hook in. Got some chrome outer handles coming so will be stripping the doors to do that. I also noticed a certain magazine has done an article on this, the second part in the current issue, haven't had a good look but wonder if there's any credit to this threads creator as I'm sure most of the info came from here. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl The doors are all identical. However, if your VL was built without power options, it will not have the holes necessary in the doors and chassis to pass the wiring between them. This can be an extremely arduous task (believe me, I did it) - you'll need to take your front guards off to be able to drill the holes, and you'll need a decent hammer drill to get through the steel of the chassis (and a large drill bit, like 20mm). Either way, you need to drill holes in the chassis. spot on... i'd fully recondition all of the power window gear anyway (so you may aswell just put it into the exec doors, same diff as putting it back in the clais ones.) the drilling is a pain but i think grk-wpn is qualified. just have to make sure you insulate the wire properly... if window wires arc out on the chassis you can very easily start a fire... (circuit breakers are your friend) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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the bloke who posted all those pics about the rear windows is an absolute legand does calaisturbo have a wall of fame that has helped me so much man i had all my elec window motors outa the car got them rebuilt and im puttin them back in i got the front no worries i got the drivers rear no worries (i fluked it lol) but man its takin me hours and hours of frustration trying to get the last one in i didnt even know you had to wound it twice before you can start connecting it lol it kept springing of i was like lol thank you again Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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i pulled 2 motors apart and both the copper bushes were stuck to the shaft and pulled out of the bush retainer. the bush has no chance of going back in so i just pulled the retainer out and continued to put it back together. anyone else have this problem? how did you over come it? 5spdvl, how does your motor run, seems you had the same problem? mine works but is noisy... also, all the damn tabs broke off once i popped the cover off the gearset, so drilling them out and riveting it back together worked for me.
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My driver's motor was the only one wear the bearing pulled out of its retainer by sticking to the shaft. I cleaned it up as much as I could, and put the bearing back in placed. Then I used a screw driver to bend the retainer's tabs back in to place as mich as I could. It works fine, but it is a little noisy. My rivets ALL broke as well, so I superglued them back on. They lasted about a week before they fell off. This time I've used gearbox sealant to hold them on, and no problems since.
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hey i'm having a go at this but i have had some trouble. i had to use a hammer to get the shaft out but in doing so i have also removed the rear bush as well. it's stuch on there pretty tight. any ideas on how to remove it without damaging it would be greatly apreciated. Also i was wondering if someone in the know could confirm wheather or not a later model motor, say vr calais as was mentioned would workin my vl calais. thanks
Photo 1 shared by red vlc
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I can confirm that any power window motor up until VS will fit. Thats the motor itself, not the entire regulator assembly. Get two pairs of multigrips, maybe with rags to prevent damage, WD-40, some heat, and go for your life. Just don't break it. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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thanks for your help 5spdvl, i did try with a rag and multi grips but it gust cuts into the bush. it's good to know that i've got a backup plan now tho thanks
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You can get new bushes from auto electricians, according to VL 88 WA. Maybe check with a few auto elecs, then if you can just cut it off.
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Excellent Thread! Well written, I don't even know why looked at it, I got wind up's Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
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Quote: Originally Posted by red vlc hey i'm having a go at this but i have had some trouble. i had to use a hammer to get the shaft out but in doing so i have also removed the rear bush as well. it's stuch on there pretty tight. any ideas on how to remove it without damaging it would be greatly apreciated. Also i was wondering if someone in the know could confirm wheather or not a later model motor, say vr calais as was mentioned would workin my vl calais. thanks as mentioned above the later models will work. but if you want to remove that bush, get some clamping pliers on the shaft right next to the split ring then secure the clamping plyers in a vice. then get a small open ended spanner that fits the shaft next to the bush. press the spanner against the shaft and hit it sideways to hammer the bush off. if you have to wreck the bush then an auto electrician should be able to source a new one. good luck with it man,
Photo 1 shared by VL 88 WA
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frosty_84Archived member
ok guy i need help with my rear LHR power window cable.Which cable goes 1st one facing outside or the facing inside the car and why do i have to much cable at the end plz i neeed some tips its really pissing me off
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5spdvlArchived member
Photo 1 shared by 5spdvl
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tim1989Archived member
Thank you for the great guide! I finished my front windows without any problems. I was bored and made a video of the before and after results. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=S6GtBfZeAKM Now TO THE REAR!
Photo 1 shared by tim1989Photo 2 shared by tim1989
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frosty_84Archived member
ok ppl that didnt help me i need to know which cable you do 1st i have try both ways evey time short on cable at the end !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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frosty_84Archived member
right done it both ways each time not any cable left too done two loops can only get 1 half loops out of it
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