im sure it could be done, but like people are insinuating its not worth it.. budget setups mean budget reliability, 10g just to prove a 10s pass a couple of times is dead money, spend a bit more and have something with reliability.. and im amazed about your patience, who honestly cbf swapping dead engines diffs and gearboxes all the time

It will be an interesting journey. Top work.. Can't wait until its on the road and see what breaks first. :P

Guys i think your missing the point. The purpose is to try and succeed. A challenge is there because it keeps things interesting and because its not easy. I know its not going to last, and if the turbo goes.. meh big deal? Its only cash - the Journey its the adventure when your building cars. Ive got the knowledge, skill and know how to build packages with big budgets - but what about doing every single mod just to scrape it in to get the science behind the motor down pat? Where is the challenge when you walk into Bresciani or Rajab and put 25k down for a 10sec package? Sorry but writing cheques out to me isn't racing... its paying for a service and _thinking_ you built a tough car. Any uneducated muzza wannabe can get finance for 25k - i wanna prove a point and do something different. Bluey-1 the police dragster - 10sec with a highflow turbo? People thought it wasn't possible - but it was done to everyone's shock. Furthermore - I'm sick of the 'Internet Mechanic' culture where people think they are enthusiasts by building cars in spreadsheets. Get your hands dirty, get out there and stop bashing your keyboard with wishful knowledge and thinking. Also i would like to clarify that this post serves as a motivator to complete the project while packaging a 8/9sec combo that will cost the earth in the background. Think of it as a blog. All peeps will be informed every step of the way and more information to be had as the project unfolds. Do not expect to get the same prices and results by copying as there are many variables. So what is the worst that can happen? Blow turbo.... blow engine - blow diff - the rest will survive. I'm willing to front the cash in the name of a challenge and to educate. Enough of these bullsh1t trade secrets and people thinking that they know something special. An engine is just nuts and bolts..... its science - THERE IS NO MAGIC. As a mechanical engineer, this challenge is just an elaborate puzzle in which you have to put all the pieces in the right combo to get the end result. I can see people seething and i like that... look out for this car in the next couple of months Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

costa mate, i think you just shut alot of mouthes up, very well written i must say and your right bout the 'internet mechanic' thing Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Comments like this really sum up ones intellect. Its not important to have the best paint in autosalon to run a race. In fact in the early days of track racing the cars were painted with one coat of paint to save weight and even some race teams just put a special sealant/clear on top of bare metal to reduce weight even further. Keep your muzza mobile for chapel mate, leave the racing to the enthusiasts that know how to build cars not build cheques. Quote: Originally Posted by Turbro bud, how many 10sec vls have u ever built??? 10k may buy u the "second hand parts" for a 10sec vl. end of the day who wants to buy a cheaply put together 10sec vl, with no nice paint, trim, wheels etc theres a 10 sec vl clagga on ebay for less than 10k, y dont u just buy that? ......cos its a piece of sh1t

You should pm or speak to 304CID on here, john, he has already done it. While it wouldn't include the purchase price of his rolling shell, it was a full weight calais, so if he did(and easily could have) purchased a $200 rolling vl berlina shell, it would have come under the 10g as far as I know. Car consisted of: Rebuilt NA engine with no more than new rings and bearings Cometic head gasket .073" thick Haltech Injectors and pump Old plain bearing T51 turbo My manifold Exhaust done by himself and a mate Rajab intake Keas 3 speed Stock 28 spline diff. Car realed off 450 odd rwhp on 25psi and avgas, and run a 10.87@126 on 26x8.5" slicks. While I'm sure a few things may have taken him over, such as if you put the purchase price of slicks and front runners in, but most of us know where to borrow some for a meeting or 2, I know at least 3 people I could borrow them off.... Good luck with it, best advise though, pull the engine down, fit new bearings at least, and change th oil pump to a second hand RB25 turbo pump or RB30 pump, the NA pumps don't flow much oil, and a rod through the block at 120mph might put you into the wall and end your 10k in .010 of a second. 6BOOST PS, forget the TO4Z, a GT35 can be had for $500 less money, and you could easily do this project with a second hand Ford XR6 turbo and internal gate, spend the extra $1000 on something like cam and intake manifold.

he sold that car for like 20k, so are you saying he made profit on it?! lol

Kyle, Thanks for the input, your straight down the line and no bull**** - just what i like I have 4x oil pumps to choose from: RB25DE RB25DET RB30ET RB30E I will tear down each engine and see what are the best parts to use. TO be honest i purchased 2x RB25 engines (one DE and one DET) for $250 for both at a wrecker that was getting liquidated in 2004. The wrecker was BEST JAP in glomar crt dandenong. The engines were sitting outside in the rain for at least 12 months. Ive pulled the heads off and rusted valves in cylinder 6 on one and the other could do with a strip down and hot tank. The DET engine was in a big smash and it snapped the block at the water pump/alternator. I may use one of these heads if they are still OK and its well within budget due to their low cost. The DE Block is perfect - bores could do with a re-hone and the DET pistons are perfect to. One of the DE pistons has seen some detonation and thats due it being turbo with n/a injectors still on the plenum! So possible plan in the future could be a proper RB25DET setup with just re-shelling the block. I'm pushing for a twin cam with a mild port cleanup depending on what they need to come up good. I just bought a HKS T51 old school turbo three days ago from QLD - still waiting for delivery! Its based on the TA51 comp wheel (got a compressor map?) with a 0.90 AR rear housing. Could do with a clean and looks pretty good - no chips in wheels etc. My choices so far for up to 1500 are the following: T04Z Used and has run low 10s. GT35 USED complete with oil / water lines has run low 10s To4e66 750HP USED for 1k T04e 600hp NEW for 800 Ive got a used TRUST 40mm wastegate that i bought from the same auction at an absolute bargain so ext gate isn't an issue. What are your thoughts on the above turbo choices Kyle and why? Some people might complain that I'm getting dirt cheap bargains - you wouldn't believe what Ive found at import wreckers sitting outside in the rain getting all cruddy. Wreckers want quick cash - not dirty hands so they will practically throw stuff away that will require effort or sell it to you as scrap. Be diligent and you will too find bargains! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

747 - Any engine has the risk of throwing a rod - dont be mistaken that a forged motor / rod combo will do the same under the right conditions. Stock rods are made out of great steel for their time. Keep the RPM low and there will not be any rod issues with factory rods. In fact, you probably have more chances of doing a rod in the low 8sec bracket than a decent prepped n/a trying to run 10.9 becuase the RPM is very high and loading probably dobule due to the flow / pressure of those turbos and stress on existing componenets. Nothing is fail proof - everything breaks under the right conditions. While an accident at 120mph would be dangerous and very damaging - all safety and harnesses will be taken care of. Calder will want me to run a cage after cracking 10s so ill probably try race at Heathcote.

bigpsi is pushing 140mph, with standard rods.. so they'll be fine for 120-130mph.

Heading to the workshop now guys, take a few photos.

Costa, best of luck with this, i can see it can and will be done, as i seen LOWEY have a low cost(to a degree) build up, and look what he owns now! Now i think you need to list the cost of every single part to shut the muzza's up, really i know you can do it, just prove them wrong Also guys, this thread is not for all your "you cant do it" crap, so stay out, Mods will be watching this thread

best of luck with it all mate, you sound to me like you know your ****, alot of people on here talk a fair bit of smack and tell everyone grapevine whispers are hard facts. get your hands dirty like you plan and then whipe the doubters smirks off on your first run. well done brother

its a challenge...i think he knows it wont last that long but if it does do 10's for 10k then challenge accomplished.

i reckon it can be done.. how many passes it will last might be another thing, reving it to 6-7k and making enough power to run the 10 wouldnt be easy i dont think, revving it past that might cause damage.. im sure jdm will have all the know. but it'd all be a big waste of time if you put it all together and then the cheap turbo you bought droped its guts and ****ed your whole engine..

you guys are going on like he's doing it to your car. i say good on ya, you're setting out something you want to do and you're going to try your hardest to do it. At the end of the day, if running a 10 in the car is what makes you happy then do it, i'm sure you'll be rapt whatever time the car runs as you'll be pouring the hard work into it and at the end of the day you can say that you did it all yourself. good luck mate, can't wait to see some of your updates. also about my early question, will the car be full weight or stripped down? full exhaust? or just dropping the pipes?

Quote: Originally Posted by Epitaph he sold that car for like 20k, so are you saying he made profit on it?! lol No, as I pointed out, Johns car was far above what is needed to run a 10, he could drop the driveline into a $500 shell and run the same number, quicker actually, his car had simmons, paint, mega nice calais interior, it was a hot car, driveline 10k, car 10k, together 20k, heck it even had $2500 worth of suspension. My point was, purely driveline wise, Johns car would have made this budget, and ran a 10.87, and its relaible as. Everybody stop claiming tha the stock rods are fine at 140mhp so they will be even more fine at 126mph. I would hazard a VERY large guess that BIGPSI's engine has at least had a set of rod bolts, if it hasn't, then I for one think they are crazy running that much power through a stock rod, its not THAT strong, its certainly not worth destroying an engine or car over $850 worth of H beams. As for this engine, I have complete faith it will run a 10, and stay together, my comments were to put new rings and bearings in it, because if they are half f ucked, and you spin a bearing at the track, THEN you will seize a rod on the crank, break it, hole the block, and possibly smack the wall. Plenty of people have engine failures and don't crash, then again, plenty of people do, and I know of 3 personally that have done so. My personal choice for this car would be the GT35 turbo. You have to keep in mind that the bigger the turbo is, the bigger the converter has to be to get it up on the transbrake. The bigger the converter, the higher the RPM it wil lock up at, the harder you will have to rev the thing to lock it up. Where you may get a tight converter in this thing with the GT35 and have lock up at 5000rp, and only have to rev it to 6500rpm, and keep your nice stock rods and bolts happy, bump it up to say a plain bearing T66 and a converter big enough to run it, and you may have 5700rpm lockup, 6000rpm even, and be revving this thing to 7200-7400rpm, not a happy scenario. Cars have run 9's with GT35's, why go bigger?? The gaol In my opinion would be the best matched combo that isn't a laggy dog, and anything bigger than what you need is a waste. I think even with these stock type components, a GT35 will smack down some mid 10's easily, I think the 25 head is a great idea, just make sure you do the oil feed to the head and run the VCT, its worth 500rpm of spool. If you went 25 head you could even save more money, run a second hand power FC, some hiflowed 25 injectors, and stock 25 loom and save another $1000 over the 30 head with aftermarket injectors and computer. There is even T3 and T4 flange cheap mani's off the shelf to suit either, and the stock intake flows 50% more than the 30 intake. Add a JD custom top half, stock head gasket and NA bottom end from a 3 litre, and you have perfect 8.2:1 comp and a killa engine. Will be interesting to see how you go, keep us updated 6BOOST Just another thought, if anyone local can tune stock nissan computers, you can wire the RB20 loom in no drama's and save EVEN MORE $$ and rechip the stock 20 computer, its as good as an Power FC, you just change injector plugs, we have one here done and running Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Ive got a few pics of goodies now, ill post it all up on the weekend Basically Ive got both the RB25 and RB26 heads cheap enough for this whole setup. It pays to know people in the industry and bust their balls in exchange for some stickers on the car lol! Injectors might be a worry on the RB25 - how much is the HI-Flowing Kyle? Failing that i can make or get an RB25 Top feed rail and run Siemens DEKA 870cc injectors very cheaply. Ill see how things go with the HKS T51 Turbo and then ill make another purchase and do some deductions. Trial and error is inevitable and thus a total package under 10k will be formulated. GT35 int gate is lined up for $1500 with lines etc but if i have room for the budget and the trans is sorted out, i may sell the T51 and get this turbo because it will spool much better, especially with the VVT on the RB25. Ill put the drive line into my Manual Calais first and ill see what kind of time/tune i can get as a manual and then ill work into the auto once funds are there and the right auto comes along. Most of the parts to get this engine done are purchased - just need the trans to take care of it. I was hoping for a 4000 TCE converter in a 2spd glide, spinning the engine up to 7000rpm, rev limit at 7200rpm. I may get ARP Rod Bolts done as they are not that expensive and i can balance and linish the rods myself in the workshop. Car to put it all in is still in question - i have more shells than a friggin beach! If it was a Calais, i have one stacked in the front for $500 that i may use for this build, or another Berlina that has had a stack and repair that i picked up for $100 totally stripped (parts for the Calais ) so both are good candidates for the final build. Failing that Ive got a Berlina with drive line lined up for cheap which i will be seeing on the weekend. Stay tuned for the pics and the stages of the build Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You say you have both RB25 and RB26 heads, yet are going to use the RB25 head? Why? Purely to keep it under budget?

VLHERO - Yep - i want the formula for 10sec for 10grand.... and ive got two rb25 heads in VGC and 2x RB26 heads 1 ported for 800HP+ and one stock as a rock that ive just stripped for porting and cleaning. One of the RB26heads didnt cost me that much complete, under 1500 which is what they are fetching as it was off a 'blown' motor. turns out the valve guide snapped into the cylinder and just missed the valve lip and made a mess of the piston and squish areas of the head.... i pulled it apart today and **** it was OK! Valve seat is 100% OK USA and the squish areas will be taken care of once i get it surfaced a few thou to get it flat again. Ive got pics of it all, soon. Here are some pics and info! The Car - $100 as it is 2x RB25 heads complete rusted cylinder 6 on both - one worse than the other but a quick lap of the valve seat and she will be fine! The Engine - RB30 (one of 5 in the workshop for this project!) RB26 / 30 Setup and tear down Bucket on Shim valvetrain RB26 Look MA - NO VALVES! RB26 Bare Head - Ready for working on! RB26 Broken Valve Guide RB26 RB25DET LEFT / RB25DE RIGHT - Oil Pumps 100% THE SAME! RB25DET Crank Snout - Same as RB30E / ET Some original photos have not been recovered yet.