Kyle, I bought Andys ARE cooler.. will that be sufficent on the twin turbo ls1 kit u sell?

Kyle, would you be able to give me a rough estimate on when i should get boost on my new setup im doing? Basically It's a 26/30 with forged rods, cp 9:1 forgies (pretty sure it should drop to around 8.5:1 when the head goes on yeh? And a 1000hp TA45 with 1.05 rear? Its going to have a minor port job on the head, but im going to be using standard cams with adjustable gears and i also have a 550kw transbraked jatco currently with a 3800 stall. any help would be muchly appreciated. cheers also, with this setup, would i be wrong to expect 450-500rwhp on pump fuel with around 23psi?

Quote: Originally Posted by NTMID 8 What springs should i be using? cam sounds good, and at a guess what sort of boost do you think ill need to get the 300rwkw mark? Ben I think they are called 5003's, from Performance Springs, they have a website. Based on your engine stick with the 1665C, that will do everything you need for the engine you currently have. And Don't get the springs with a "D" suffix on the end, these are heavier and suited to larger camshafts. Quote: Originally Posted by Jet R31 Any back to back testing between the camshaft with 220@.50 and the larger 230@.50, power wise and powerband shifting wise. cheers darren Not as far as I know Daz, the 966 and bigger 967 have about 10deg more seat duration, so I'd expect maybe 100-150rpm later spool, but they would also bleed off some more cylinder pressure, and your thinking of upping the comp, so I'd say if anything, you'll prob get faster spool than you do now and more power everywhere, I'd think at least 20rwkw at the power your making now. Quote: Originally Posted by Morgz Kyle, I bought Andys ARE cooler.. will that be sufficent on the twin turbo ls1 kit u sell? Yes, will be fine, same as what I used on the car I did except I used 91mm thick, should be fine for low boost application to 400rwkw. Quote: Originally Posted by [.nugget.] Kyle, would you be able to give me a rough estimate on when i should get boost on my new setup im doing? Basically It's a 26/30 with forged rods, cp 9:1 forgies (pretty sure it should drop to around 8.5:1 when the head goes on yeh? And a 1000hp TA45 with 1.05 rear? Its going to have a minor port job on the head, but im going to be using standard cams with adjustable gears and i also have a 550kw transbraked jatco currently with a 3800 stall. any help would be muchly appreciated. cheers also, with this setup, would i be wrong to expect 450-500rwhp on pump fuel with around 23psi? What are the pistons in the engine?? Are they RB30 CP's or are they the pistons needed to put the 26 head on a 30?? If they are normal RB30 CP's, for a single cam head, then forget it, it drops compression to about 7.5:1, however if they are to suit the twin cam head, they should be flat top or dome top, flat is 8.3:1 and dome top is 8.8-8.9:1 compression.. WHat intake manifold and exhaust manifolds are you using?? It looks like standard intake in the pics, can't see what the exhaust manifold is though, is th emanifold split pulse properly?? And whats the collector design look like?? Can you take a pic of it side on?? And also need the wheel sizes of your turbo, I take it its plain bearing?? WHat is the comp wheel and exhaust wheels sizes?? LEt me know these, and we'll work out what it should be doing;o) Kyle.

Just wanna add Kyle, I spoke to Luke about valve springs a while back, he did say the 5003Ds are too heavy, when I spoke with performance springs they only mentioned 2 sets available for RB30, the 5003Ds and the RR4s, Luke happened to have some of the RR4s (which are the softer spring) at work, he measured one up and said it'd work fine with the 1665C (pretty sure this is what I have).

Ah, ok, well for everyone, I made a mistake on the part number, and the correct one for the softer spring is RR4, thankyou kindly for correcting me mate:o) Kyle.

Thats not my engine in the pic. I'm using standard intake manifold and I'll be getting you to make me an exhaust manifold. The only specs I have of the turbo are AR 1.05 rear housing, 4inch outlet, split pulse AR 72 comp cover 76mm front wheel It's plain bearing I'd like to use a smaller housing and I'm pretty sure I can get a .91 for it??? a rough estimate would be sweet :D cheers

I'd go as small as possible in the rear housing, a .91 would be almost perfect, and try and get a T4 flange one or TA45, not the big T6 footprint like what is on it now. Spool will depend on compression and camshafts in your case, the turbo now being fixed. If you are yet to purchase pistons, you need to get the DOME top ones to suit a 26 headed RB30, CP make them, I can supply them if you need. These with a .051" cometic gasket give around 8.8:1 compression. I'd be tempted to then take another .020 off the head, and bump that to around 9:1 or as close as you can get to it. Some cams around 10mm of lift and 230@.050 duration (268-272) should get you full boost around 4800rpm, mainly due to the old school rear wheel and plain bearing nature of the turbo. A new style 76mm GT S trim turbo ball bearing, be that a garrett T51, a GT42R, or Mr Turbo T76, would make full boost around 300 faster than the turbo you have, purely for comparison sake. Do you have the pistons yet and what cams have you got?? If either?? Kyle.

He's gonna use standard cams

Quote: Originally Posted by Epitaph He's gonna use standard cams Quote: Originally Posted by [.nugget.] cost isnt really an issue, as long as its under 25k for the engine complete, ill be happy. if its over, so be it. Why would you go to all the trouble of spending 25g on an engine (which is what he said his budget is) and use standard cams? They are cheap in comparison???

Quote: Originally Posted by [.nugget.] Kyle, would you be able to give me a rough estimate on when i should get boost on my new setup im doing? Basically It's a 26/30 with forged rods, cp 9:1 forgies (pretty sure it should drop to around 8.5:1 when the head goes on yeh? And a 1000hp TA45 with 1.05 rear? Its going to have a minor port job on the head, but im going to be using standard cams with adjustable gears and i also have a 550kw transbraked jatco currently with a 3800 stall. any help would be muchly appreciated. cheers also, with this setup, would i be wrong to expect 450-500rwhp on pump fuel with around 23psi? I dont know why either

While standard camshafts will be fine for spool, it kinda takes away the benifit of the twin cam head. If you spent the same amount of $$ your spending on going twin cam on the RB30 head with port development and valves, and a large camshaft, you'd prob make the same power as a stock GTR head and valves. My point being, that at the very least, get some camshafts that drop in with no mods, IE under 9.2mm of lift which is where the head starts to need machining, and get yourself a set of valve Springs from Performance Springs(I know, I sound like salesman for these guys, simple fact is they are the cheapest around, and work a treat, and I've used them many many times) that will drop straight in, and there you have it. Preferably spend some money on port work, and now your starting to look like a winner in terms of hp gains. For future reference, and I can't stress this highly enough, a turbo DOES NOT push the air into the engine, so who needs port work?? Everybody. Why does a GTR head make more power?? Becuase it flows more air. It is just as critical to do port work on a turbo engine as it is on an NA engine, anything you do to increase airflow, will increase HP, and in my opinion, every $$ spent on the cylinder head and airflow development will be worth twice the HP as anywhere else in the engine. Kyle.

Ok, yeah the head will be ported, we have already planned on that. Also I will grab a set of cams and springs for it, i was under the impression that the standard ones were good enough for 500rwhp, but I suppose as you said they will make power easier :P Cheers for that Kyle :)

this thread is a great source of info from someone who actually knows what they're on about. great work. by the way, congrats on the zoom feature kyle. the car looked sweet.

kyle, how are ya mate. this will be the dumbest question in the thread, and proberly make me look real stupid but ahh well lol. just wondering if the garrett gt30/71 (i think or its calld 32/71) can use same oil n water lines the normal ones off t3 turbos that are for sale usuelly on the forums, or am i gonna have to go and get custom ones made up? piks of the turbo can be found in the following thread. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=103497 also another dumb question, standard dumpy fit on this? or will i have to go custom your a legend kyle, keep up the good work. :) Baset.

Quote: Originally Posted by QIK86 this thread is a great source of info from someone who actually knows what they're on about. great work. by the way, congrats on the zoom feature kyle. the car looked sweet. Thanks mate, appreciate it:) Nugget, stock cams will definately make 500rwhp, thats not the question, and yes, some bolt in style cams will make the same power on less boost, I'm just presuming that your not fitting a 1000hp turbo to a 600hp engine;o) When you want more, you won't need to pull the thing apart and do extra stuff. Well, I honestly can't give yu an answer baset. I haven't ever seen a plain bearing GT3071, I was under the impression that they were only ball bearing, however I will say that thats the very smallest turbo I would fit to a RB30, its not much bigger than standard. The dump looks similar to the VL, the wastegate flap is part of the flange likea VL housing, and it looks like a plain bearing core, so the oil and water lines should be interchangable, but don't hold me to it, they may need some slight tweaks. It looks like in the pics that the water lines are blocked off anyway. Kyle.

thanks for the info kyle, the reason for buying this turbo is that im just doing a turbo conversion so i had this turbo come and it was cheap, so i thought why not lol. thanks agian mate.

hi kyle just needed some insight on what you think is the best fuel pressure regulator to run on the street. what model and brand regulator do you prefer? this is for a vl turbo thanks

I really like magnaflow. They have a street reg up to 800hp that is around $300 and good for almost anything street orientated. They haev very good pressure control, and look pretty trick too. I hate malpassi's, which the pressure seems to do whatever it wants whenever it wants, and I have a turbosmart T reg on my own car, which works nicely too. The cheapest option up to 350-400rwhp I'd use that works nicely is the Sard, but this is more suited to factory style rails and barbed fittings. 1000% better than malpassi though. 6BOOST

I guess I was lucky the bloke who built my motor recommended King HP bearings. Unsure of any other oiling mods done. The motors travelled 50,000km's to date. You say 2.2-2.75thou on the big ends depending on rod quality. A set of stock rods what would you run and for a set of spool rods? I'm considering another small slow home build of an rb30 using a set of spool rods, cp pistons and full length oil pump drive so I can feel safe reving it a harder out at Mallala. There wouldn't be any other little tricks done to the rb30 bottom end you know of to help keep it alive? Good work Kyle. Quite an interesting thread. *subscribes*

Spool rods I'd run 2.2-2.5 thou, depending on application. STreet style up to 400rwhp prob 2.2, street 500rwhp to track style work I'd use 2.5 thou, they are a really well made rods and as I said, Luke had them tested and are genuine 4340 chromoly, which met or exceeded all specifications for the metal, so its good quality forging as well, not cheap junk. The lengthened oil pump drive is a good thing, we have a shop up here that welds the nose of the crank up then grinds it back with the longer snout on it, and matchs it to your oil pump drive so its tigher and doesn't smash out the corners. I like this better than a collar, check with your local crank grinder to see if they do it. There are a few oil system tweaks, I think I already mentioned it, drill the main oil galleries leading to the main bearings with a 7mm long shank drill, then use bearing blue and drop the bottom shell in. You'll notice the hole is off centre, and you need to use a small jewellers file to file the hole out and match the oil gallery hole in the block. Then simply grab a die grinder and radius all the passages in the block you can get to that oil flows under suction or pressure, such as where the oil filter screws on, and radius the edges inside the pump. These things will ensure you have a nice unimpeded flow to your bearings:o) Kyle.