i just adjusted it till it didnt hit the underbody, i never really measured, i guess it was about 35-40mm, and i used to get loss of traction when i launched/boosting, but now it stays pretty straight when i get some time this weekend i will measure them up, cuz i think i have the old arms somewhere

yeah it would be interesting to see cause in the old days people used to cut them and add half and inch or an inch to them to help but i reckon that would break on a decent launch haha. oh and some photo's would be nice if u can get some up plz of what itall looks like.

very interested in more info on the adjustable upper control arms.. they sound like a good thing, so i've got some on the way. is there any formula for working out approximate 1/4 mile times from 1/8th mile et's? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i dont no if there is a formula but usaully u see cars running mid to high 8's pulling high 12's to low 13's. high 7's low 8's can be anywhere from high 11's to low 12's high 6's n low 7's low 11's high 10's depends on how ur car is set up too as people tend to change diff gears for 1/8th or 1/4.

there is a formula, had it in a old street machine will try dig through the old pile

it's got alot to do with mp/h to i think .

so has anyone tried anything else besides the adjustable arms? i just want to know cause my newly installed spool has exactly the same problem. think i'll just turf it and buy an lsd

Quote: Originally Posted by lowbstvl so has anyone tried anything else besides the adjustable arms? i just want to know cause my newly installed spool has exactly the same problem. think i'll just turf it and buy an lsd What he says... Quote: vltnitron: i use to have a lot of axel tramp problems. Raced once at the drags and diff hopped that bad it dented the floor from the diff yoke. Went home and replaced the rear shockers with a pair of pedders 50/50 valved short shockers. Next time out was 70% better only tramped in the top of 1st. Replaced the top trailing arms bushes on top of diff with pedders solid rubbers and stopped tramp completly. Still handles killer on the street to for body roll. thats my experiances anyway hope it helps Axel tramp is commonly the result of the pinion angle coming past horizontal when the tyres grip well, then snapping back with a loss of traction, and gripping again leading to nasty hop. I always had plenty of probs with my HQ and minispool. Tramped so bad I broke a turbo 400 case. First the bushes in the rear need to be nolathane, in A1 condition or brand new. Any slack in the rear bushes will allow plenty of pinion movement! I went a pair of new 50/50 oil shockers. Then if that doesnt completely eliminate the prob look at adjustable upper control arms to adjust the diff pinion angle.You can buy an angle inclomometer(?) thingy from bunnings for $20. Looks like a clock with 360 degree dial and magnetic base. Best to be careful when adjusting pinion angle, cos too much negative (pointing at ground) can lead to catastrophic tailshaft failure on deceleration. about 2 or 3 degrees negative pinion max as measured by comparing tailshaft and differential. Tailshaft is easy to measure, just let the magnetic base hang off it! For the diff I use a vertical flat surface such as the yoke or input bearing, doesnt matter that the readings are 90 degrees out as you are only comparing the angle the needle hangs at. I use McDonnald Bros adjustable arms in the HQ cos they have been in drag racing for eons! Sorry for the long post... Hope it helps Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

bah...use the tommo rule, either love it or rip it out ! go back 2 a single spinner. :P or do as the rest do, skate for months... vexo Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by mild25/30 What he says... Axel tramp is commonly the result of the pinion angle coming past horizontal when the tyres grip well, then snapping back with a loss of traction, and gripping again leading to nasty hop. I always had plenty of probs with my HQ and minispool. Tramped so bad I broke a turbo 400 case. First the bushes in the rear need to be nolathane, in A1 condition or brand new. Any slack in the rear bushes will allow plenty of pinion movement! I went a pair of new 50/50 oil shockers. Then if that doesnt completely eliminate the prob look at adjustable upper control arms to adjust the diff pinion angle.You can buy an angle inclomometer(?) thingy from bunnings for $20. Looks like a clock with 360 degree dial and magnetic base. Best to be careful when adjusting pinion angle, cos too much negative (pointing at ground) can lead to catastrophic tailshaft failure on deceleration. about 2 or 3 degrees negative pinion max as measured by comparing tailshaft and differential. Tailshaft is easy to measure, just let the magnetic base hang off it! For the diff I use a vertical flat surface such as the yoke or input bearing, doesnt matter that the readings are 90 degrees out as you are only comparing the angle the needle hangs at. I use McDonnald Bros adjustable arms in the HQ cos they have been in drag racing for eons! Sorry for the long post... Hope it helps thanks guys much appreciated. does anyone know roughly how much a set of these cost or should i just go out and buy some koni adjustables??? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

also a brand new set of shockers helped me and raising the back an inch as when it was low it was way worst, also tyres can play a role as well.