Quote: Originally Posted by OVL087 auto nothing better than flashin the stall and breakin traction in top gear at 100kph yes there is.. droppin the clutch at 140 and peeling tred off the rear manual is a cheaper option.. for a good auto u will pay 4 times what u can for a manual box.. im sure a r33 5spd will easy hold up 600rwhp with a good clutch Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Ok dude i beleive that if u build a car and its manual there is no use having more than 250rwkw ! the box simply cant handle all that power reliably. Then u got ur diff etc aint gonna like it as well unless ur very care full with the way u drive ! resale value means f all ! look at all the mods u got mate ! if i was building a car that i wanted 270 + rwkw i would go auto if i wanted to retain a quick street car with 5 speed i would not go past 250rwkw You have overlooked a few things with ur build up ! this is the limit of mods for 5 speed i think ! 5 speed vlts are quick when intercooled ! with a small cam ,3 in zorst, t3 highflow 15psi std management, and if u like a plenum or ported inlet/outlet manifolds thats where a 5speed is fun cause its quick cheap and driveable/reliable (MINIMAL DRIVE LINE BREAKAGES) u plan on any more mods/power than that auto is the go ! this should be made sticky !

standard turbo manual box is good for over 300rwkw? Standard turbo auto box isn't even good for 200rwkw? And that's not even throwing in the $500 upgrade you could make to the r33 box... something to think about.

man if you realy love driving your car around keep the manual ive got a manual skyline and a fir bit of power and its just so much fun id neva go acros to auto there for work cars man

Quote: Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1 standard turbo manual box is good for over 300rwkw? Standard turbo auto box isn't even good for 200rwkw? And that's not even throwing in the $500 upgrade you could make to the r33 box... something to think about. reliabaly though ? mate manuals are horn i love them ! true sport car feeling its awesome driving a quick boosting manual theough the streets ! dont get me wrong ! I have seen good nick mx7's fcuk up i have seen good nick r33's 5 speed fcuk with less than 300rwk ! there are cases where ppl have put that power through them but how many out of 10 last long ??? have a go with slicks good launch with 300rwkw and tell me how long these super strong boxes last ?? ok maybe on the st they are good n hold up with street tyres but hey lets get serious now ! i beleive this guy had the intention of drag racing down the 1/4 other wise why would u make so many mods and be pulling so much power ? that pwr is nearly useless on the st without street slicks each to there own ! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

oh oh ok yeah of course if you are doing huge launches on slicks anything more often than rarely they are going to die, i agree with your point of view totally.

I already have some tougher gears in the box. I do want to run a few qtr times but I dont want to run the risk of blowing up the manual box. Ah well thanks for all your input guys.

so what u gonna do mate? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Go Auto if you want serious times plus you can always change it back too 5 speed when you had your fun in it! I wouldnt touch it if it was some rare turbo HDT VL. Goodluck with it dude.

My car was all set up with factory manual, twin plate clutch. I then started going in a lot of auto VL's. I have now sold my manual and gone for a full manual Keas, with transbrake. Most common turbo upgrade (besides hi-flow) would have to be 35/40 or T66. A manual will read more power on the dyno, but feels slower on the track/road. Manuals also seem to brake more driveline components. Lets say you did side step your clutch in third (been done b4) and you had a good clutch and a nice set of nitto's. You would almost bet on damaging a centre bearing or upper trailing arms. Each to his own, but for anything over 220kws I reckon auto.

Quote: Originally Posted by BAS My car was all set up with factory manual, twin plate clutch. I then started going in a lot of auto VL's. I have now sold my manual and gone for a full manual Keas, with transbrake. Most common turbo upgrade (besides hi-flow) would have to be 35/40 or T66. A manual will read more power on the dyno, but feels slower on the track/road. Manuals also seem to brake more driveline components. Lets say you did side step your clutch in third (been done b4) and you had a good clutch and a nice set of nitto's. You would almost bet on damaging a centre bearing or upper trailing arms. Each to his own, but for anything over 220kws I reckon auto. top response mate Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

manual for fun, Auto for times! i have come to the same fork in the road!

Quote: Originally Posted by WOOD go auto dude! get the most out of your engine. Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO How do you figure that? Well obviously a manual will never be as quick at the drags so you will never see the cars full potential ET Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

i disagree i think manual's feel way faster on the street, but in reality are far slower

i agree. they feel must faster!

if you get serious about chasing times with that much power and a good auto, you might need to factor in the cost of a cage as well.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I agree with the majority here. Auto for times and Manual for fun and street use. (Manuals still do impressive numbers though) I wonder what would be better, if you intended for circuit racing though? Quote: Originally Posted by RB26DETT Go Auto Manuals are for gutless N/A's Yeah the Manuals are far better in a N/A, then a Auto. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

how the hell is your factory mx7 holding up with 350rwk?? anyway the fact that certain mx7 boxes n r33 boxes died with even less than 300rwk might have something to do with the clutch used. with a manual box, you're gonna spend heaps of dosh on maintenance bro. an organic clutch wil mean that you'll be going through clutches monthly, and a pucked brass button would mean more stress on your box and hence rebuild/service costs on the box. thats why with big hp machines, the auto is the way to go, maintenence costs are way less, however in saying that, the purchase prices of a decent auto box is way more than that of a decent manual box. i reckon chuck in a 4 spd toploader if u want a manual, oh actually i dunno, do what u want lol

^ or pumping the clutch and breakin traction at 100kph I looked into a pp gear box, straight cut gears on 1st 2nd and 3rd with dog engagment drive, and heli cut 4th and 5th - 9 grand and 3 months to build maybe later in the future.... oh and i reckon keep it manual Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Go auto if your gonna get into the drag scene put a shift kit threw it and give it a run if your passionate about getting into drags... but id also suggest to keep your manual gear if you ever have a change of heart....