Hi guys Picked up my kit today. Just looking at it know Very impressed already Quote: Originally Posted by 2filthy3 036 injectors go on no trouble, i think so anyway, they are 380cc. If you do put an 044 in i think you have to take a restrictor/nozzle thing out of the end of the return line, where it goes into the swirlpot in the fuel tank, or it will do silly things to your fuel pressure. yeah you can uses the rising rate regulaotr with standard injectors, you'll be able to run a bit more boost as well. You can't use the standard 02 sensor to tune, the reading they put out are effected largly by temp, so thats one thing against the standard one, as it's temperature will fluctuate alot where it is. and the narrow band sensors are called so because they are only really good over a "narow band" of afr's, that is it's very sensitive around 14.7:1, like a said, any chanege slightly above or below this makes a large change, in the 12:1 area that you would be tuning they dont work so well. What power output are you after? Hey mate Will extra fuel presure on the standard injectors make them flow more? how much more boost? I see what u mean about the 02 senser. what sort and where would i get a senser that would work with jaycars exost anerlizer? so i can use it to tune? im after between 200rwkw and 300rwkw.... Quote: Originally Posted by david85dc GTR injectors bolt onto the stock vl fuel rail and are good for around 300rwkw only cost about $300 for a second hand set also. money well spent i recon Are u u sure they bolt straight up? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

if you really wanted to do it you can get the whole o2 sensor setup, wideband of ebay for about $600. I wouldn't really want to trust the jaycar exhaust analyzer hooked to a normal o2 sensor if you were tuning for 250rwkw, one stuff up and by by engne. if you did try it this way though, you'd want to use a heated o2 sensore, from a modern car and place it in the tail pipe. if you put all this stuff on, bigger injectors, fuel adjuster... get it tuned on a dyno, it couldn't take long.

Will scan the information bout the kit and the page write up of how it works from what came in the kit. just trying to get my dam scanner to work Quote: Originally Posted by 2filthy3 if you really wanted to do it you can get the whole o2 sensor setup, wideband of ebay for about $600. I wouldn't really want to trust the jaycar exhaust analyzer hooked to a normal o2 sensor if you were tuning for 250rwkw, one stuff up and by by engne. if you did try it this way though, you'd want to use a heated o2 sensore, from a modern car and place it in the tail pipe. if you put all this stuff on, bigger injectors, fuel adjuster... get it tuned on a dyno, it couldn't take long. Thats what i was thinking when i get bigger injectors and fuel pump and such to get me to 250rwkw i wanted to use my own o2 metre so i could put the digital fuel adjuster on my vl now (standard) and tune it to 12 psi Does anyone know what the voltage range is on a vlt airflow metre? I been looking everywhere to see what the o2 senser does in the vl and what happens if disconnected but have had no luck Also wondering with this kit does changing the airflow metre voltage going to the ecu not only change the fuel but the timing to??? or just fuel ?? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

afm goes to 5volts - ish. you simply cant tune without a wideband. if you wanna blow your engine, go ahead..

Quote: Originally Posted by tarmac- afm goes to 5volts - ish. you simply cant tune without a wideband. if you wanna blow your engine, go ahead.. whats the exact Voltage does it run ? I know I wouldnt tune without a wideband after researching. U can get build it urself kit for $279 http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm but i think i will leave it to the professionals with a dino and know VLTs Does any one know a good Tune shop near Noosa on The sunshine coast QLD My dam scanner is ***ed so i cant scan the full right up of the digital fuel adjuster trying to get someone to do it for me till then im gunna take some photos of kit and the book when my girlfriend gets home with my camera Cheers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

so would it be possible to get one of these tuned on a dyno without a wideband?

yes az the dyno has a proper 02 metre that uses a wideband senser so they will be able to see what air/fuel ratios corrispond with each load point that is seen on the kits controlla. then each load point can be tuned richer or leaner.... Does anyone know if the VLT airflow metre only control Fuel or timming as well?

so how do these kits allow the use of other injectors, would they have to be the same impedance?

Quote: Originally Posted by azvl so how do these kits allow the use of other injectors, would they have to be the same impedance? IT allows u to tune at 128 load points the micture 4 bigger injectors or different airflow metre. i spose they would have to be the same impedance because they still using the standard ecu injector singnal.

hey guys Can anyone tell me whats the volt range for the vlt afm? Also if the afm single to the ECU only controll fuel or ingnition timing to? i have finished the kit just waiting on the hand controller so i can install it

what a heap of crap. I would much rather spend that 200 - 300 bucks on a sh!t microtech

lol petros it aint a motec man. dont be that single minded bro. not everyone can afford the best.

lol you know me too well. my theory is if you cant afford to do it right then dont do it ? the tight arse always pays twice!

Do u have anything contructive to say petros???? the more contructive thing to say is WHY u think its a piece of ****. if i wanted a motec i would save and buy one i wanna try out this kit and how it works and how good because i have an inquisitive mind and wanna see what this kits capable of.

The above is just a interceptor module for the Air Flow Meter. It could be used to trim the mixtures a little but thats all. If you fit bigger injectors you are going to need to reduce the AFM signal to the ecu by a fair bit, which will inturn increase the timing and cause pinging. It sounds good in theory, but is of little use on most cars in reality. By a proper aftermarket ecu if you are increasing your engine performance, otherwise your going to have compromised performance and reliability. Im with Petros on this one. P.S. Yes i have used the above JayCar kit on an import before, mainly as a fuel cut defender. I used it to clamp the AFM signal to prevent overboost cut, but in reality i could only run a little more boost anyway as once the signal is clamped the ecu can't read the extra airflow and add more fuel. And the import ecu had twin knock sensors with alot better operation then the VL knock system does for a little bit of safety, otherwise i would have never used it.

I was gunna use this kit on a stock vlt to get the most out of the standard fuel system till i up grade. Was instrusted in it after reading the artical bout it i have build it now just havent installed it on my car. is it safe to use as a way of tweaking up the standard map or wouldnt u bother?

Quote: Originally Posted by Petros what a heap of crap. I would much rather spend that 200 - 300 bucks on a sh!t microtech why are you so anti microtech?

Ok, if you really want to use it to get maximum performance what i would do is the following. Use 98 octane fuel (premium) Leave the ignition timing at standard 15deg btdc @ 700rpm. Then with the interceptor you will be able to gain a little by doing the following. What happens is when the standard ecu changes from around -10" load it changes from closed loop (14.7:1 air fuel ratio/economy mode into a richer mode for power) However if you use the interceptor to reduce the AFM signal from say -10" load through to around 6 psi of boost you could gain a bit, because the standard ecu runs fairly rich through this area and on low boost. If you it to trim that area down to say an Air Fuel Mixture of around 12.5:1 you will be sure to pick up power and response. The reason i said earlier to leave the timing at stock setting is when you reduce the AFM signal it will advance some anyway and you don't want it over advance as to cause detonation. As for what voltage the AFM is at around -10" load im not sure, you will need to watch the AFM signal on the interceptor and what its at around -10" load. (Look at your boost guage) Also you will need a true wideband sensor to monitor the Air Fuel Ratio as you trim the mixtures, otherwise you might cause a lean out and you will be rebuilding your motor. So you will be able to get a gain, but make sure you have a true wideband when your tuning it, otherwise its not worth the risk. An experience tuner will be able do it for you or hire a dyno and you tune it whilst the dyno owner/operator drives. If i didn't make any of the above real clear ask me again and ill try to explain better.

Quote: Originally Posted by RB30-POWER Ok, if you really want to use it to get maximum performance what i would do is the following. Use 98 octane fuel (premium) Leave the ignition timing at standard 15deg btdc @ 700rpm. Then with the interceptor you will be able to gain a little by doing the following. What happens is when the standard ecu changes from around -10" load it changes from closed loop (14.7:1 air fuel ratio/economy mode into a richer mode for power) However if you use the interceptor to reduce the AFM signal from say -10" load through to around 6 psi of boost you could gain a bit, because the standard ecu runs fairly rich through this area and on low boost. If you it to trim that area down to say an Air Fuel Mixture of around 12.5:1 you will be sure to pick up power and response. The reason i said earlier to leave the timing at stock setting is when you reduce the AFM signal it will advance some anyway and you don't want it over advance as to cause detonation. As for what voltage the AFM is at around -10" load im not sure, you will need to watch the AFM signal on the interceptor and what its at around -10" load. (Look at your boost guage) Also you will need a true wideband sensor to monitor the Air Fuel Ratio as you trim the mixtures, otherwise you might cause a lean out and you will be rebuilding your motor. So you will be able to get a gain, but make sure you have a true wideband when your tuning it, otherwise its not worth the risk. An experience tuner will be able do it for you or hire a dyno and you tune it whilst the dyno owner/operator drives. If i didn't make any of the above real clear ask me again and ill try to explain better. Cheers mate ur post covers pritty much is virtually everything i wanted to know. Just one thing do u know the true fuel ratio on the standard vl on boost when it goes from closed loop 14.7:1 to open loop?? also is 12.5:1 the right mixture to tune to on the vl under all loads?? I have a 3 inch exhaust, pod and will have my cooler bolted up soon and want to wind the boost up to 12 -14 . Could i still use this kit at those boost leavels to tune it to 12.5:1 ??? and be safe if i took it to a dyno place for a tune? Quote: Originally Posted by Petros what a heap of crap. I would much rather spend that 200 - 300 bucks on a sh!t microtech Alsso can u tell me where i can get a microtech for 200-300 bucks will buy it straight up if one exists??? lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by rusty577 Just one thing do u know the true fuel ratio on the standard vl on boost when it goes from closed loop 14.7:1 to open loop?? also is 12.5:1 the right mixture to tune to on the vl under all loads?? It varies with the actual car, like condition of injectors, fuel pumps etc Usually when it drops out of closed loop it will typically go into mid 12's and then down lower again as it comes onto boost. Some i've seen will go as rich as 10.0:1 - 11:1 Ratio's. You can usually try to target around mid 13's from -10" load down to 0" then from 0-10psi target around 12.0:1 then from 10psi onwards target around 11.5:1 for the added safety margin. What you will find if you are running a highflow or big boost, is somewhere usually around the 170rwkw mark the stock injectors and AFM is that the injectors will be 100% duty cycle. (on all the time) and when you try to make more power the mixture will lean out as its getting more air but not the extra fuel. If you are making this sort of power 170-200rwkw you won't need the interceptor to reduce the AFM signal at this point as you will want as much fuel as possible to maintain the mixtures. You will only know the above with a wideband and dyno but. The reason the factory ecu runs such rich mixtures is that on the stock engine it was designed for lower octane fuel (what was available in 86-88) and no intercooler to cool inlet temps, so Nissan used the fuel to help avoid detonation and cool the pistons etc. But once your running a FMIC the inlet temps are alot cooler and controlled and also you have access to 98ron fuel these days, so you can make the engine a fair bit more efficient from a fuel usage and power point of view without sacricing reliability. But if you need to use larger injectors etc for further mods in the future, don't try to use the above interceptor to run them, get a full standalone unit.