Quote: No offence But im starting not to like this LukeVL guy... Hes taking on everybodies experiences and advice/opinions... ^^^ wtf? lol go son.

Thread Cleaned. Keep personal conversations for PM guys.

Quote: Originally Posted by ISL33P how about the street ? if you say no to that i think you may be lying because we have all done that. I can't admit to that on a public forum.. Quote: Originally Posted by DJ Mitzi No offence But im starting not to like this LukeVL guy... Hes taking on everybodies experiences and advice/opinions... With a user name and details like that- don't worry i won't take offence. lol Anyway back on topic- did you know the exhaust studs are 8mm in the Rb26 head and 10mm in the RB25 and Rb30? Just another random factoid for you. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1 whats the go with the vl strut towers... im assuming the turbos/manifold and plenum all clear sweet as? What about if a high mount kit (say a 6BOOST) was fitted, would it have to be custom made to clear the passanger side strut tower? rb26.30 fits in nicely. i had to remove the brake master to slot it in with the intake on but apart from that its a easy fit and kyles manifolds let the turbo have about 1mm of clearnace each way Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

So it would be safe to say that the standerd prepped rods would be good for 350rwkw, with revs limited to say 6500?

they can make more.. look at VLGOD But.. it's a grenade, could last a year or more.. could last one meet.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by zmatt So it would be safe to say that the standerd prepped rods would be good for 350rwkw, with revs limited to say 6500? Should be fine at those little revs. But for the money there are two things to consider- RB30 rods don't really need prepping- just bolts and a re-size if you don't want to pay for new nissan bolts and for the money you may as well get a set of spool rods.

So have people been using a R32 rb26 oil pump over R33/34,apparently the R32's oil pump drive gear would crack in the corner (not sure how common this is)? The R33 oil pump is longer around the crank to resolve this in the R33/34. But the R32 pump is a straight fit?

All pumps are essentially the same and go on. The R32 crank has a short area for the flats to drive on and it makes the oil pump crack. This is not a fault of the oil pump- its the lack of drive area on the crank. The R33 onwards cranks fix this problem. The Rb30 crank has a very short drive area like the 32 and requires a crank collar or metal spraying to widen the area which drives the pump. I personally will never put another motor together again without this problem fixed. I have an R32 Rb26 in front of me with- you guessed it- a busted oil pump and some siezing in the motor!

so where do you recommend sending the motor to have this crank problem rectified?

u just need to look up the ferra catalog (for eg.) to see that they are .5mm bigger in the RB26 anyone got flow figures on both heads (std) ??

just some quick questions, would love to hear ppls thoughts... after speaking to jack a little bit... i wanna confirm a few things, when building an RB30 / RB26 engine... 1) Will fitting a worked Rb 26 head give me more power on the same boost compared to a worked SOHC RB30. ? (im pretty sure u def get more torque) 2) As far as general streetability goes, say the engine is fitted with a GT35/40 or similar sized turbo, will an worked RB26 head provide better immediate response / feel better lower down than a worked SOHC RB30 ? and lastly (the big one) WILL a worked RB26 head significantly reduce turbo spool time / spool quicker compared to a worked SOHC RB30 ?? i mean are we talking about something like this in difference: (GUESSWORK) (GT35R 1.06 say) - (both engines being worked) RB26 head / RB30 end = spools @ 3600 , FBoost @ 4100 rpm RB30 = spools @ 3900 , FBoost @ 4350 rpm more or less than my estimate or is spool time reduction fairly minimal?? excuse all the questions / guesstimates... but i really am curious if it is more of a decent STREET setup when going for big power to choose the RB26 head??? thanks to any and all who can answer / help out

yes, yes and yes. even my 25/30 is VASTLY better off boost than it was when it was SOHC, with higher compression. the head flows more everywhere, not just when it's on boost.

spool is increased greatly, "average" power is way up across the power band. Your powerband is a a lot wider, boost transition is also smoothed out alot. Can't wait to build one in the next yr or 2. cheers darren

Anyone care to tell me how much im looking at doing an RB26 head conversion ( strengthened with goodies..etc) all up?? for decent power , ie 500hp + not really sure what parts/ costs would all add up to, all i get told is "ITS SO NOT WORTH IT" by many due to it being a bit (?) more expensive than working standard RB30 ?

also this is probably a stupid question, but the bresciani racing plenum wouldnt fit with a 26 head would it ? :S

Quote: Originally Posted by Dark_Vl also this is probably a stupid question, but the bresciani racing plenum wouldnt fit with a 26 head would it ? :S They're made to suit an RB30 head, not the twin cam ones. You could if they fit between the head and the strut tower fit one in and stick some custom runners on there.

an rb26 head cost wise can get out of hand,rb26 head,cnc porting,valves,valve guides,cams,springs,retainers,cam gears,head studs,then by the time i polished the covers and match ported the plenum to the head,the bill came back to me at 11k,it did have excellant flow figures and im hoping it was well worth it.

yeah rob although im sure for 11k you have a head that can take a LOT more than 550rwhp !!! im just wondering the costs for A) a good condition head and B) all the goodies + labour to assemble it so it can take over 500rwhp..

head alone from $750 goodies and assembly from $10k to around $20k depdnding on how far you go