well have u had a look at the starter motor wiring? (so to state the obvious) does the car crank at all? and can u hear any noise from the starter motor or general area? if not it may very well be a wiring problem have u checked all the other obvious things such as if the ecu is connected properly? have a look and let me know

Quote: Originally Posted by YOGI05 I didn't join the wires at the relay, i joined a light green with black stripe to a pink wire that were both on one of the plugs that were disconected from the auto tranny,this was above the brake master cyclinder.THIS IS FOR THE NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH. This is the correct way. Changing the computer or removing it will have no effect on the running of the car. Also, manual and auto pedal boxes are identical it's just the pedals that need changing. Auto Spigot bush is removed by carefully drilling small hole on either side. Don't drill too far and drill the crankshaft. than with a cold chisel and hammer carefully callapse it without damaging the crankshaft or seal.

i did this conversion on the weekend, quite a simple job but i didnt bridge any wires and the car started no problems at all why is this?

When installing a manual trans in a VL, lots of tech articles say join the purple wires beside the fuse box. This bypasses the “Park” lockout. If you haven’t got the rest of the manual loom, this means that the reversing lights and the neutral lockout will not work. Here is another way. Buy 2 good quality (eg Narva) 2 position joiners. Disconnect the loom that connects the position selector switch on the auto trans to the plug on the firewall, near the master cylinder. Looking at the end of the plug you have just removed, numbering starts at top left corner (with plug catch upwards). If you have the repair manual, numbering is the same as in the book. catch on top 1 8 7 6 2 3 4 5 Cut the position selector off the auto wiring loom and throw it away. There are 8 wires to cut. 1. find red/black wire 1 and solder the cut end (where you cut the auto selector off ) onto one of the new joiners. BEFORE you solder it up, splice another wire with the red one so you have a join going from the joiner (make the splice out of red wire for simplicity – make sure it is at least 30cm long) 2. find the blue/black wire 3 and solder it onto the other side of the same joiner. 3. find the black/white wire 2 and splice it onto the extended red wire from step 1 above 4. solder this spliced wire onto one side of the OTHER joiner 5. splice the red wire 5 with the black wire 4 and splice a black wire about 30cm onto this wire 6. solder this extended black wire to the other side of the joiner Put heat shrink around all the joints to protect them Now you should have 2 joiners with wires 5 connected and 3 spare wires. Tape up these 3 spare wires and wrap the loom in electrical tape. At this stage, you have circuits for the reversing lights, neutral lockout circuit and the “Park” bypass circuit. Now, to connect to the gearbox, cut the connectors off the neutral switch and the reverse light switch. Note – if you remove them, the switches are not interchangeable. Solder the other ends of the joiners onto these 2 switches. Then connect the Neutral switch to the extended red and black wires using the joiner. Connect the Reversing switch to the other joiner. Now what you should have is a fully connected loom which allows the reversing lights to come on when the reverse is selected, the neutral lockout such that the car can only be cranked over in neutral and the park bypass to allow the car to be cranked and started. Sounds complicated but it is really very simple with some basic skill with a soldering iron. Steve. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

^^^^ theres a smart guy. well done. i did something similar but i bodged it as i didnt use joiners.

Great work lol im not mocking anyone but um DOING A FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE UP WITH A RATTLE GUN JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN!!! LOL seen this happen a few times. Remember the flywheel is rotating fairly fast when the engine is running, not doing the bolts up to TORQUE SPEC can have some pretty nasty consequences. LOL like a shattered flywheel, busted bellhousing, a ****ed up clutch, damaged to your welsh plugs behind your engine or even worse........THE BLOCK (oil galleys etc.), rear main engine seal. So yeah my advice is to not be lazy. Go and see somebosy with a torque wrench and ask them if u can borrow it. Get a gregories manual or something and get the torque specs!!!!

Got my conversion finished today. I am very happy with the results and car goes a lot better now. As some said ^^^ it really woke up the old vl. A completely different car to drive almost and i encourage more people to do it as it's way better than an auto! (for n/a) Cheers.

guys i have everything thing to do the conversion the only query ihave is regarding the starter motor ,my car is a vl calais turbo and is auto ,can the turbo starter be used in this conversion or do i need a non turbo starter,the box is a mf5, please help as i plan to do this tommorow thanks glenn

muggle how did it go?

bleh i left 1 bolt less on the flywheel, no problem to me. Rattlegun is the best way Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by MADNESS i removed my AT2 computer and the car starts fine with the purple wires briged study the wire diagram in the manual their maybe something else done to ur wireing mine was pritty much all GMH stickered wires allso anyone know any tricks to remove the filler bolt in the side of the manual cause i got 2 things to finsh this dam conversion and i cant remove the bolt to fill up the trans fluid I removed the AT2 computer which in itself is easy, only a couple of screws. The rest of the wiring thats left behind thats what im trying to remove now. im having trouble with it as it appears to be wired into everything. did u remove the wiring or just the computer and if you did is there any pointers you can give me Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what is the at2 computer? what does it do? i thought that if the two connectors on the box were connected and the twp purple wires were joined, evrything works reversing lights and all? is this not the case?

Quote: Originally Posted by phantom_t what is the at2 computer? what does it do? i thought that if the two connectors on the box were connected and the twp purple wires were joined, evrything works reversing lights and all? is this not the case? The at2 is the automatic trans computer, i did the the swap a few years back and didnt remove the computer at all. I did bridge the wires tho and it worked fine. im just removing everythnig that i dont use or isnt needed on the car anymore.

ne thoughts on the difference between runnin the auto comp and a manual comp? done the conversion (was fun) but yeh now it feels like im still drivin an auto but changin my own gears as opposed to drivin a manual n feelin the boot when she comes on boost. thinkin bout goin an aftermarket ems but was jus wanted to kno if anyone had similiar problems/ any ideas. also with the spigot bush, tried the hydraulic method with no luck but got a breaker bar on the crank and a monkey wrench on the spigot and whollah! - strait out cheers peepz DuFF

ive just finished my conversion this thread was a big help. Just a few things the peddle box isnt hard like everone says once youve droped the steering colum drop the top of the peddle box and pull it out. oh and to make it easyer for you guys doing this get the manual gearbox loom so all you have to do is plug the loom in and all your lights work.

Great info dj mitzi, quick question. Going from auto to manual is all good but has anyone had any experience with going from manual to auto? I will be needing to fit a standard turbo auto into a turbo manual that has a supra 5 speed in it this weekend coming. Just curious if all the wiring is going to be there. I know the wiring for the At2 is there but just the other things like setting up the neutral start relay ect: Any body know if the wiring looms are the same for manual and auto regardless of what it came out with? Cheers boys.

g'day, got my new motor the other day and it was an auto so today i changed all the gear over to manual stuff. the spigot bearing it got out in literaly about 2 seconds, there is a special tool you can buy for $60 from coventries ( i have a m8 who works there so one just disapiered oneday) you screw it into the spigot bearing and pump it full of grease and the bearing slides straight out! for the clutch aligning tool, if you have a stuffed mf5 oxy axe or angle grind off the input shaft and use that...only if u have a stuffed one - for the one you are useing

Firstly this is the best Mod you can do to an N/A vl other than turbo conversion, If you ever get the chance to drive a manual vl, dont pass it up :P Ok I did this conversion on the weekend, fairly easy just some bellhousing bolts can be bit of a mission and peddle box can take some time, The clutch I lined up with out a tool using a half inch socket extension and bit of garden hose over it, and basicly just by eye Removing auto spigot bush was pretty easy using the grease method, I found 3/8 extension and 14mm was perfect fit, only took 5 mins to get it out make sure you unbolt your exhaust at the cat or the engine wont be able to tilt and can make it impossible to get the box in I pulled the auto and everything in involved with that on a saturday, then had the manual in running by sunday 5pm, So it isnt that hard, but I admit I am a mechanic and I was using air tools :P Also the flywheel bolts make sure you use the M/T bolts cause there is a fairly big difference between them, And make sure you put some locktight on them, and do them up to 150 newtons if you can get a hold of a torque wrench Anyways Hope that helps people out in the future also great write up in the first post Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by Wilko16 Firstly this is the best Mod you can do to an N/A vl other than turbo conversion, If you ever get the chance to drive a manual vl, dont pass it up :P Agreed! My berlina was converted to manual, only other mods are 2.5" cat back exhaust and advance timing. Its just as quick as my old Auto Calais which had exhaust, extractors, advanced timing and 3.9 diff gears

for those of u asking about the auto and manual NA computers, i have an auto one in my manual converted calais and has run fine since it went in. Had the manual one in there for 2 weeks i think then it **** itself and wouldnt crank so the auto one went back in and dont think theres really that much difference