Quote: Did this fix your overdrive on your auto gearbox, is that what you mean when you say "the box is now working properly too"?? My brother is having problems with his overdrive working intermediately, so hence we think it electrical. And this may be the fix as its not reviecing any speed signal?? I did this about a month or so ago now and the fuel gauge has worked perfect ever since. And it has also seemed to fix the overdrive. Before it was very intermitent and didn't work more often then it did work. Since i've done this the PWR button works every single time.

Id say the overdrive problem was a loose connection which was fixed when you took out and put back in the cluster, not by the wire itself

does any one know how to fix the oil pressure guage?, as soon as the car starts the needle hits full and stays there till the motor is turned off.

Quote: Id say the overdrive problem was a loose connection which was fixed when you took out and put back in the cluster, not by the wire itself well i've had the dash apart heaps of times and never made a difference until i soldered the wire in. I'd say its more an earth problem considering the PCB that you soulder onto is the earth for the dash.

Quote: Originally Posted by VLWAGONIT does any one know how to fix the oil pressure guage?, as soon as the car starts the needle hits full and stays there till the motor is turned off. i would say either your gauge is stuffed or there is a earthed out wire some where, might wanna try search or making a new thread in the tech section (not this one)

wat bout mine... my gauge seems to read 1/4 when i fill up, and as i use fuel it goes down from there. (so effectively, 1/4 of a tank on the gauge is a full tank of fuel)... anyone seen this b4?

that sounds like your sender in the tank

has anybody gone and bought independant speedo tacho fuel guages etc and mounted them on a board to replace the standard dash cluster ? if so pics would be good

Quote: Originally Posted by VLHERO You do realise that if you put S2 inserts in a S1 dash that when your speedo reads 100 your only doing 80 dont you? S1 and S2 tacho's have a different sweep and hence have differently spaced markings. yes i do know that didnt realy matter tho with the box i was going to use (and now am) its acculey quite accurate but thanks any way

do u guys reckon this would work on a vk similar to vl & next model as my fuel gauge ai'nt working at all when it use too 2 years odd ago? please reply asap as i am thinking about trying this anyway & how do i take the dash out any one got a diagram ie: pic of drawing!1 page preferred

do u guys reckon this would work on a vk similar to vl & next model as my fuel gauge ai'nt working at all when it use too 2 years odd ago? please reply asap as i am thinking about trying this anyway & how do i take the dash out any one got a diagram ie: pic of drawing!1 page preferred

Quote: Originally Posted by VL_Nick I can safely say that this method worked for me. Whilst the original method did not, it was great to see a nice *safe* way to remove the boards etc. The only improvement made on VL_Nick's was to run the wire on the opposite side of the picture (I think) so that way the pcb screws to the plastic properly. (or inside the cluster once screwed back together.. I forget now) FWIW, I also changed the colour of my clock at the same time.. I couldn't find any decent cellophane so I cut out a cover from a cheap DVD Case.. worked fine :-) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I done this (the rewire) and it didn't work at all. Even my oil pressure doesn't work like it did before. I done exactly what was on that picture showing the wire and the solder on each tab of the fuel gauge so beats me what happened Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yep goin to see if i can bend the contacts from behind the dash without removing it first either that or i think it may be my sender in the tank needs to be reset!

just an update guys you dont need to take the speedo and rev pins off to reach the board, i wouldnt advise doin it as i did it and now my speedo and revs are out but i could of paid a bit more attention to where they were originally pointing, anyone got any tips for me to correct this problem?

Quote: Originally Posted by Filo4You just an update guys you dont need to take the speedo and rev pins off to reach the board, i wouldnt advise doin it as i did it and now my speedo and revs are out but i could of paid a bit more attention to where they were originally pointing, anyone got any tips for me to correct this problem? flick the pin a few times and let it stop. than put the needle on the bac on in the netural pos

vl nick. i have souldered the wire how u said and the fuel gauge works fine, but now the oil pressure gauge aint workin, but was workin fine before i did the mod. got any ideas??

By the sounds of it, everybody is getting in and dismantling there dash. and then some people are experiencing problems with there oil pressure gauge. In reference to my previous reply (page 1) check that the bolt on the back is being down up properly. Doesn't hurt to double check. Thanks Boris

thanks boris. tightened the nut up and works fine now

Quote: Originally Posted by deadlyvl had the same prob with ours. pulled the pcb off and reflowed the soldered joints as they had gone dry. found they were all cracked around the pins. reflowed em all fuel guage now works perfect and am actually getting a spped sensor signal so the box is now working properly too. good result for an hours work! wot do u mean by reflowed the solder joints?