Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Great, want to see that but I want to keep my aircon, wonder if a recess in the aircon box would be the best of both worlds... you could probably fit it in there while keeping the air con but it would just be a lot more time consuming and frustrating. i think there is a small amount of room in front of the blower fan. pics: Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

HI, have been reading bout the relocation but no-ones said nethnig bout what happens with the LH head light wiring???Just thought id ask.Damo!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by 86VL5spd HI, have been reading bout the relocation but no-ones said nethnig bout what happens with the LH head light wiring???Just thought id ask.Damo!!! i just fed it back into the cabin, and ran it out of a hole i drilled behind the ecu and then up under the guard and back through another small hole behind the light. same with afm but i put the hole just under the afm

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche b. Remove the fuserail (ie cut wires off) and mark each wire in the process (Guessing on this as my hole is too small to fit fuserail through)...! . Do NOT do this!! lol the entire fusebox loom fits perfectly through the factory hole. just unclip all the relays and the fuserail and lay it all out, you will see they are all staggerd (sp). make sure u take the relays out of the bases though :P how do u think it got there in the first place, the wiring loom was assembled first then fed through the firewall ! by the way heres mine, bare in mind i havnt cleaned it up yet in this pic Quote: Originally Posted by 86VL5spd HI, have been reading bout the relocation but no-ones said nethnig bout what happens with the LH head light wiring???Just thought id ask.Damo!!! i ran mine in the 1/4 panel, which needs extending. not sure what other ppl do though if they dont run it like i did. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Did you need to lengthen the wires to the AFM when running them through the guard? If you do how do you get on splicing in extra length and still retaining the continuity of the shielding?

Quote: Originally Posted by NDHELP Did you need to lengthen the wires to the AFM when running them through the guard? If you do how do you get on splicing in extra length and still retaining the continuity of the shielding? yes you do about a foot or 2 longer. you need to use tin core wire not copper core for one of the afm wires or it won't work, found that out the hard way. the other five can just be normal copper core wire and it all works fine, mine's been done for about a year and i have no worries with it

Quote: Originally Posted by snake you need to use tin core wire not copper core for one of the afm wires or it won't work, found that out the hard way. the other five can just be normal copper core wire and it all works fine, mine's been done for about a year and i have no worries with it huh ?!? The AFM output is a totem pole amplifier and can happily drive copper or tin or aluminium, I think something else was amiss at the time you used copper that misled the diagnosis.

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche huh ?!? The AFM output is a totem pole amplifier and can happily drive copper or tin or aluminium, I think something else was amiss at the time you used copper that misled the diagnosis. i extended it with copper wire and it wouldn't rev past 2000rpm (afm not working) and the multimeter showed a very low voltage on the signal wire. had a chat to an auto electician who gave me some tin core wire for free to fix the problem. i cut out the copper wire and soldered in the tin wire and it went fine with the voltages back to normal

Quote: Originally Posted by snake i extended it with copper wire and it wouldn't rev past 2000rpm (afm not working) and the multimeter showed a very low voltage on the signal wire. had a chat to an auto electician who gave me some tin core wire for free to fix the problem. i cut out the copper wire and soldered in the tin wire and it went fine with the voltages back to normal Ah, Ive had something like this happen, the wire had a tiny break inside the insulation, wouldnt have noticed it if we didnt have another wire ...! The 2000 rpm limit is set by the ECU to indicate *zero* signal is getting to the ECU from the AFM, copper wire guarantees more signal than tin as the resistivity is lower - this pretty much confirms you must have had a break the factory ones are multistrand copper. Next time use a meter to confirm the connectivity, they save a lot of time. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ive never mucked around with my cars electrical till friday wen i bought the street commodores magazine and also discovered my fuse rail has seen better days all melted etc but it was workn fine :S ive also dsvocred that there was no earth and now my ignition fuse keeps blowing because theres no earth or maybe its short from somewhere well afm cable didnt need extending but the Lh headlight cables had to be extended i ran it in the gaurd like psiwagon did. the hardest bit was taken out the grommet sliced my hand with the stanley knife lol and now with the dash in and hopefully get those aftermarket fuse rail from niche should be perfect will have piks up soon Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

ooops, stanley knives are sharp, have a scar or two myself from the old days, Couple of people have spoken about using a microtech ECU under the dash on drivers side then freeing up the space behind the kick panel, this way it wont affect the glovebox, When you say no ground, thats odd, cause there isnt a ground on the fuserail normally, I add one for the diagnostic system leds on my fuserail but my fuse fail lights dont need them. The main ground for the block is on the engine mounts under the thermostat housing under the manifold, 3 eyelets if I recall. Ground for body should be near battery negative, just follow the lead, Do you have anything extra on your car like amps, water spray, sun roof etc ?

the only electrical mods are boost controller and turbo timer but thats on the drivers side ive rechecked the wires again i havent cut or damaged any wires it was workn fine untill i put the fuse box in the glove box but when i get my new fuse rail will c how i go with it and also with aftermarket ecu's rajabs uses the old ecu but takes out the old stock internals and replaces it with aftermarket and it plugs straight into the old loom check out there site

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Ah, Ive had something like this happen, the wire had a tiny break inside the insulation, wouldnt have noticed it if we didnt have another wire ...! The 2000 rpm limit is set by the ECU to indicate *zero* signal is getting to the ECU from the AFM, copper wire guarantees more signal than tin as the resistivity is lower - this pretty much confirms you must have had a break the factory ones are multistrand copper. Next time use a meter to confirm the connectivity, they save a lot of time. i had some trouble getting the solder to stick to the tin wire when i soldered in the copper piece so maybe it just didn't join properly hence no signal to the ecu, and with the tin wire and different solder it joined properly. well that clears that up for me thanks man Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by snake i had some trouble getting the solder to stick to the tin wire when i soldered in the copper piece so maybe it just didn't join properly hence no signal to the ecu, and with the tin wire and different solder it joined properly. well that clears that up for me thanks man Yeah thats definitely possible and seen that a few times, copper is so easy to get corrosion on it - from of all places the insulation..! its made of PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) and when it gets hot and/or old it releases a little vinyl chloride which quickly breaks down into chlorine and that attacks the copper forming copper chloride which when mixed with any oil forms a layer which might stick well with solder but has high resistivity. Tinned wire last a little longer but has a different failure mechanism, new tinned wire will work fine as it still has a copper core but tin plated which wets or rather 'wicks' up solder far better, Devil is in the detail, You prob wouldnt be surprised how many tech people I have seen argue hard with each other from their relative experiences both saying they are right and the other wrong - when it turns out they are both right but from different perspectives, almost like religion edit: Fixed a typo, think I should be a mediator and take a commission from both sides Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Any more examples of this, what did u end up doing revneck since your fuserail had direct solder connections instead ?

Quote: Originally Posted by Niche Any more examples of this, what did u end up doing revneck since your fuserail had direct solder connections instead ? yeah all worked fine(though wouldnt recomend it as a option for ametures) ill charge my camera and show ya a photo Niche,sorry been run hecktic with work n stuff. i simply tinned wire,slid heatshrink down wire,heat sunk the wire till good solderd conection was made and then liquid electrical tape was applied followed by heatshink over exposed wire/solder.

hi all, i have just spent the coupla hours or so trying to figure out how to get it all inside.... how did you ppl get the gland off? did you pull it thru to the outside and hack it off or pulll it inside? i can't seem to get the damn thing off and it keeps getting in the way. i also had to take my fan box out completely to get access to the gland... could someone please clear up for me how you should go about doing this properly as i just dont seem to be managing terribly well.....

pulled it through to inside and cut it off carefully without cutting any wires. i have no fan box so there's plenty of room lol

Lol so no secret tricks? just perserver and it will work out? fair enough. that fan box was a pain to get out with the dash in i will say that much....

I didn't even cut it off, I just took all the insulation tape off and pulled all the wires inside. Here is a pic of my bay... it sure cleans it up- I also ran the left hand headlight/horn/etc wires under the guard, just to clean it up abit more. The big black thing on the left is my alarm siren, I still have to mount it properly, but it will cover the hole lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.