My car is an auto so I'm always on the brakes.....
What sort of kilometres would expect to get out a set of the EBC green pads just doing daily driving???
Quote:
Originally Posted by HSVSUX
so u didnt get the ELF fluid then? dont race it till u do.
Well ; I couldn't find it when I was keen to do the job in the weekend , the fluid was black and full or rust and crap ( and needed change ) , so I just used Shell Dot4 fluid for now. It's better than the tomato sauce it was running before anyway .
Plus the fluid is all the same , only the boiling temperature is higher on the race type ones... And you need to flush it all to put that in , you can't just top up and bleed , don't you ?
just bleed till empty, fill, bleed all 4 till 1/2 gone, top up, done.
when ur pads are good and bite well heat goes way up. dont push them too much until u get it done.
racing or going nuts on the street, lol
but its cheap anyway, so no reason not to use it.
any comments there ttvlman, too expensive for ya, Repco fluid does the job when ur racing, does too many brake ugrades that he cares to comment on....
HSVSUX, why do you say to get the discs machined on car? whats wrong with an off car lathe? if there is no shudder on the first test drive then a shudder wont magically appear 5,000kms down the track unless the brakes are abused.
also they have discontinued the bendix "standard" brake pad cause it has asbestos in it, which is a no-no as of late this year. Anyone trying to sell them can get in big arse trouble!!
Do you really need me to answer your Q ?
90% of brake shops and mechanics dont run the disc / hub assembly on the bearings when machining, so sometimes they can be machined not "true" to how they run on the car.
it costs pretty much the same and is worth it as you will never have a prob caused by machining. the hotter you get your brakes, the worse "run out" symptoms become.
I had a new VT wagon as a company car back in 97 and it was in at the holden dealers 9 times for rear brake shudder, the fix was to get them machined on the car which I asked for after the 2nd trip back to them, on car machining would have corrected the problem straight away.
its not a "have to" thing, but well worth doing.
Do it once, do it right
Of course they don't run the disc on the bearings when using an off car lathe, iv'e never seen one that has. (not sayin they aren't out there)
What your saying is that the wheel bearings don't run true? If they didn't then they wear in no time. I know that the bearings and the bearing cone wear together but the effect of that wear in regards to disc machining would be negligable, no?
also with the pull off disc type the disc is in contact with the flat surafe of the hub face so how would on car machining benefit in that regard?
i'm not saying your wrong HSVSUX, cause you definately got me thinking, just tryin to figure it out is all!
with most cars, the factory machining is very poor in that area (bearing seat to hub face and disc face). you can clock run out on most hub assemblies when on the car.
late model types are worse coz the hubs have quite a bit of run out and by machining off car, the disc will be true, but back on the wobbly hub, shes got run out again.
its not a hard concept to figure out, i have seen this problem on lots of cars.
there can be run out in the disc, hub, axle, what ever and on car machining will correct it straight away. its not a black art.
so your saying youve had cars that come in with a shudder, get the discs off car machined, go out fine and then in a few weeks come back with a shudder again?
are you saying that no hubs run true?
does that mean that when a car has run out in the hub then the disc will be machined unevenly to compensate?
lol, nah man i aint a mechanic, just learning!
ok just one more question, IF the disc is machined unevenly to compensate for the run out of the hub (like you said);
you could get some vernier calipers say, and measure one point on the disc getting eg. 22.45mm and then on the opposite point youd get 22.35mm...? is this right cause it sounds odd!
if i measured up a disk and got these figures i would say its because the disc is ****ed not because theres run out somewhere in the hub.
and wouldn't THAT cause a shudder?
lol, if ya can't be bothered just tell me to shut up and go away and i will
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
all that matters is that the disc is running true as a unit on the hub etc.
diagnosing run out should always be done on the car and its not always caused by the disc alone, hence on the car machining to compensate. its fine to do that.
TOPIC LOCKED.
lol
hmmm okay i'll agree to disagree with you, but just one last thing, if everything is wobbling about then how can wheels be balanced 'off car' and still be okay...
disagree with what part? its all fact.
the disc wont be thin in one part and thick on another, front and back are machined parallel.
wheels have the same problem, but luckily they have a band of air and run out is hidden to an extent. as it happens a mate of mine make 3 piece race wheels and fixes wheels for the same problem, bead surface to mouting face discrepincies.
I think you need to get yourself a Dial indicator and check a few cars out. lol
I think we are boring people now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HSVSUX
any comments there ttvlman, too expensive for ya, Repco fluid does the job when ur racing, does too many brake ugrades that he cares to comment on....
hahahaha
Mick
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.
Quote:
any comments there ttvlman, too expensive for ya, Repco fluid does the job when ur racing, does too many brake ugrades that he cares to comment on....
I thought that was funny too
Some original photos have not been recovered yet.