i could be wrong too bus i would have thought that the ecu would receve a signal from thw knock sensor and asume it is faulty and retard the timeing as a fail safe and read a error code of 34 "the eccs control unit determines the detionation sensor faulty when one of the following applys: 1 DETONATION SENSOR IS OPEN CIRCUITED 2 detonation sensor is shorted to earth 3 abnormal noise " but again i could be wrong as for the injectors being the same on atmo i have been told by a few injection shops that turbos have a bigger flow rate me personaly i think its worth paying a little extra just be safe Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

So if you use a N/A computer it doesn't matter if you don't have the knock sensor? "OVL087" do you get any-problems without the det sensor? and do you have the Turbo ECU? or a NA ECU?

I havent hooked up my knock sensor yet, i always get the fault code when i do a codes check, wether the computer sets the timing to its own fail safe setting ***** knows. I could see the reasoning if it did but i hope it doesnt.

Hey guys, I have considered this subject for some time... I was looking for a VLT here in perth, but the demand and prices over here are crazy... so I have landed my self a SICK looking auto VL, and decided to drop an RB25DET in it. Sounds a little easier doesn't it...and cheaper? I rang up an import place yesterday, and they were going to give me an RB20DET for 2200....and that is apparently expensive!. So if you add it up, 2- 3k for a sweet VL.. 2500 for an engine (that is better than an RB30...apparently), around maximum of 1k for a n exhaust and up to 1k for fitting (have to admit, my friend is a mechanic, but I still have to pay to use his workshop) This all adds up to aroun 7500. There are a few other factors involved tho, so it would probably work out a little more expensive (V8 Diff and front disc replacement etc)

True apparently Series 1 motors were missing a few key holes, which was later corrected on the Series 2 engine. Are there any extras you might need that aren't in that list for a series 1 motor?

Damn Series 1 motors! :x

BRAKES? hwat brakes would you recomend? would it be good enough to keep the rear drums and get something like vt twin piston brakes up front? if not how much would it cost to upgrade to VLT brakes ie. 4 wheel discs.

Hi im doing a turbo conversion on a SII Auto Exec. Brakes: 90% of braking is done in the front so upgrade the front at least. Drums pull up as good as disks in a one off situation they just dont cool off as quick. If you had VT twin spots up front, NA drums rear, and had to slow the 150+KW down after accelerating hard on the freeway you wouldnt have any trouble. The only thing is with drums you get that terrible VL spongey pedal feel. I'll tell you one thing though stock NA Front disc brake system is the exact same as on a sigma. The sigma is even too overpowered for that system let alone a modified VL turbo. As for NA Auto: Turboluke, have you seen an NA auto tranny hold up with a turbo conversion? How long would you give it with a cooler? I have most parts ready for the actual turbo conversion but only have an auto NA gearbox. Im hoping my DBA x-drilled slotted and NA auto will withstand the pain till i can afford a decent box and brakes. What about 3rd party property insurance?????? Ten bucks says its void the minute you bolt on a turbo manifold. Does anyone know anyway around this???

for how easy it is.. its probably worth putting at least a 25 spline disk rear end in so that ur car is compliant. vlt's had 4 wheel disks so its probably a good idea to put some on when converting.. while ur at it, get some vlt front rotors and callipers and a double diaphram booster and 1" master cly and then ur braking package is complete. drums are ****, drums look ****, drums dont work very well after a hard stop. dont use ya ****ty drums asw for injectors and ecu... apparently the vlt ecu injects fuel in stages as opposed to the na which just goes in 2 banks i think.. *** ask somwone like andy... !! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

yeh its called semi sequential operation the ecu fires injectors in 2 banks of 3 and im pretty sure it does it under full load only

would it be easier and cheaper to buy a rb30et halfcut and do a swap?? if so whats involved with that??

Quote: Originally Posted by turboluke yeh its called semi sequential operation the ecu fires injectors in 2 banks of 3 and im pretty sure it does it under full load only yeah

any updates or progress on the N/A to Turbo page? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by SirGeo So if you use a N/A computer it doesn't matter if you don't have the knock sensor? "OVL087" do you get any-problems without the det sensor? and do you have the Turbo ECU? or a NA ECU? i have a genuine vlt computer , i am not running the knock sensor as i am using the old n/a loom. no problems

i wouldnt suggest retaining drums on the rear and vt on the front. do as ollie said and at least use a 25spline disk rear end , ps i have one for sale also , injectors are different , the pintle is slightly larger , im not sure about the resistance between the two and they also have a slightly better atomising spray patter. dont use n/a s hit with a turbo setup , though the plenum is fine. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

how much would it cost to convert a auto to a mannual? Thanks

For just a n/a manual conversion it should only cost up to $1200 at Max. But for a vlt manual conversion your looking around the $2000 mark. It all depends on who is doin the labour, you or a workshop. And you can always find cheap stuff around every now and agian. There is a thread somewhere about this, so do a seach and see what you come up with.

yeah there was a thread about it but it didn't have the price only the parts. Thanks anyway mate! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

What else are we here for...No worries mate.

If anyone is after the oil and water lines for a t03 turbo p.m and ill send you details of someone who makes them.