Quote: Originally Posted by dragme How the hell you set up water injection? Can you do it yourself? Thanks I found an old water injection kit in my garage. My dad said its easy to install. Just plug in the injector somewhere in the intake and connect a red and black wire somewhere so it know what revs to inject the water and at what rate(which are adjustable on a controller that comes with it). im digging around for a manual but no luck so far from Garrett. edit: anyone want a photo so they know what it looks like?

Quote: Originally Posted by sp33d I found an old water injection kit in my garage. My dad said its easy to install. Just plug in the injector somewhere in the intake and connect a red and black wire somewhere so it know what revs to inject the water and at what rate(which are adjustable on a controller that comes with it). im digging around for a manual but no luck so far from Garrett. edit: anyone want a photo so they know what it looks like? Won't the cylinders corode? Also what happens whn you first start the car up on cold and water is injected?

sp33d: Yeah definatly would love a pic of the water inj system. dragme: No because the injection is a VERY fine mist, that is only activated at high/med rpm. This fine mist is dangerous to a turbo on the compressor side, yet not on the exhaust side. The reason being is that the water drops are soo small that once heated, under such heat and pressure conditions, evaporate into a gas. If it were injected at low rpm, with low heat and low compression (no turbo), there would be no point. One thing to note (and it has been mentioned before in another post) is that to overcome the destruction of the compressor wheel, the water injectoin can be placed after the compressor instead of before the compressor.

Quote: Originally Posted by B15HOP sp33d: Yeah definatly would love a pic of the water inj system. dragme: No because the injection is a VERY fine mist, that is only activated at high/med rpm. This fine mist is dangerous to a turbo on the compressor side, yet not on the exhaust side. The reason being is that the water drops are soo small that once heated, under such heat and pressure conditions, evaporate into a gas. If it were injected at low rpm, with low heat and low compression (no turbo), there would be no point. One thing to note (and it has been mentioned before in another post) is that to overcome the destruction of the compressor wheel, the water injectoin can be placed after the compressor instead of before the compressor. Thanks for clearing that up. The reason i'm asking about the water on a cold motor is what happens if you do hit mid rpm/ high rpm on a cold motor? Won't the water not evaportate proplery due to lack of heat? If you were to get water injection would you have to really drive it carefully (i'm not saying i rev it hard on a cold motor) until it reached its operating temperature?

Quote: Originally Posted by fusion pvl-747... man 420hp...350rwkw's will have a vl runin in high 11's low 12's dude!!! not 13's pffft Bluey 1 ran 10.96 with 405rwhp(302rwkw)so I dont know where your getting your figures from. have a look at http://www.turbonetics.com.au/ATS_workshop_bluey_1.htm There used to be a VL that used to hang around Deer park that apparently ran 13's. Had a sticker on the back 'sh1ts on turbo's'

dragme: Well, I am not sure how complex the water injection system is, although I doubt it would be as risky on a non turbo motor. Unfortunatly you will not get as much cooling effect with water injection on a n/a motor. On some aftermarket engine management, they have support for activating the water spray once the engine has reached a certain temperature / rpm level etc... Secondly, people don't realise this, the fuel injection system also acts like a cooling system. It's environmentally a bad way to cool an engine down by richening out the engine, bad for your motor too, although manufactuerers support this. By the way, isn't it recommended that you let an engine warm up anyway before you start jumping on the gas? Corrosion has so far only proven to be dangerous on the exhaust side, ie turbo / manifold / exhaust especially. This is why they go to lengths to coat the inside to keep the discharge hot as not to condense the water and allow it to corrode. By the way, water does not eat your engine, its what is in the water... The water acts like a catalyst (speeds the process up.) Oxygen eats metal, any metal, anything if hot enough... This is why they dont put raw oxygen into a motor. So you don't make an oversized blow torche. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

if you guys want some information on water cooling there is a UK company that makes kits and have done alot of research: AquaMist (http://www.aquamist.co.uk). On my kit, you have to specify at what rpm you want the injector to spray the very fine mist. Essentially its only benefit in an N/A car is when you advance the timing. Basic principal: you advance the timing and you get more a chance to ping. So injecting a super fine mist of water mixed with metho in your intake allows cooler air(since the water is sprayed very finely, it has a small density compared to a drop of water) hence less chance of detonation. when i get some time ill take some photos of the kit.

Here is a quote from the AquaMist (http://www.aquamist.co.uk/) website: Quote: "I have done a lot of research on the effects of water injection on a forced induction engine, and have been able to come to the conclusion that it is in my opinion, one of the best modifications for a turbo car with increased boost levels. All to many modifications performed in the search for more power, can lead to stressful situations on the engine, and of these raising boost pressure is the most common and easiest way to increase engine output. However, when the boost pressure is raised, so is the heat of the charge air and the in cylinder pressure, which is a bad combination. To combat this more fuel must be added, but when you reach a point where not even a rich mixture of 12/1 is sufficient to stop detonation, you will be losing power by the addition of more fuel. This is where water injection really pays off, not only in it's ability to safely allow boost increases, but to actually benefit the engine and turbo. The reason for this is that water possesses a very high amount of latent heat, which makes it ideal for cooling the combustion process. Water will improve the knock resistance of an engine, while also cooling the exhaust gases, thus allowing higher boost pressures, while at the same time reducing thermal stress on the turbine section. Water will also help prevent the build up of carbon deposits, and can protect the valves and valve seats from getting burnt, pitted or distorted." So, in theoy, water injection effectively raises the octain rating of fuel. While not proving hazadous to your motor...

Quote: Originally Posted by vlred twin cam head gives more power and improves economy, so i've heard. The twin cam head does give a lot more power & torque,going for high compression will allow you to get more power out of every drop of fuel. I have found at this stage at least an RB30 with a twin cam head gets about the economy of a standard single cam RB30 but makes a lot more torque and is more responsive than the single cam motor but still uses the same amount of fuel,perhaps a little more if giving it a bit. Currently I am getting around 11 L/100 kms (I used 37 litres to 350 kms last week) but I was idling the car a fair bit and the motor was a bit sluggish for some reason when the ECU wasn't getting the right signal from the starter motor on cold start,this led me to use the throttle to start the car but that is all fixed now. I removed the resistor that you can find which is in between the terminal on the starter solenoid and the connector which is bolted onto the starter itself,when cruising in the car now in overdrive it feels like the old motor did somewhere in between 4th & overdrive even though no such gear exists,it is the best way I can explain it and at 140 KPH where the single cam motor began to flatten out in overdrive the new motor keeps on pulling & pulling,my tyres aren't that good which makes the car dart a little so I am not keen on driving it too fast like that. I can pull around in 5th where I used to have to back down to 4th,4th where I used to have to back down to 3rd at the same revs. Basically with the twin cam motor,you will use more fuel if you use the extra power but with normal driving will get the same economy but have a bigger torque output and you won't have to back down gears as much.