Quote: Originally Posted by madrx3boy [View Post] Ok hooked up the mutimeter, with everything turned off (eg motor,lights,radio, doors shut etc), read 1.1Amps. Went thru the main fuses in the engine bay, pulled out radio one and it dropped to 1.03 Amps (which sounds about right - for the radio/clock memory?). Then pulled out a fuse (a 7.5Amp one) which was just called 'Charge', and the current dropped to 0.6 Amps. Anyone know what this fuse is for and why it's using power when car is off? One other thing, even with everything off, when I hook up the battery, I hear a relay switching - the one that i hear is a big sucker, seperate from the rest and bolted to the strut tower, I guess its for the starter? but is it supposed to click when I connect the battery? (with ignition key switched off)? any help is much appreciated, thanks guys so it looks like the *Charge* fuse is causing your problem... have no clue how to fix just that its the sucker thats draining your power out of your battery. could just be the fact that all of a sudden there's power running through the circuit. ? no clue sam so sorry if it doesnt help [correct me please if im wrong.] Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ-DOSEIT [View Post] i got ruff quote from steele gears,round $300-$400 for 25 spline lsd,will handle what i can throw at it for now,my gear box would sh it itself before diff would once done,may run out of time tho so weld it up for now. If you weld a 25 spline diff the axles won't last long

my arent going up again, were can i get a new relay for them?

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ EVLHSV [View Post] If you weld a 25 spline diff the axles won't last long far out.. lucky I have a nissan rear end on my skid vl then ay.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by madrx3boy [View Post] Ok hooked up the mutimeter, with everything turned off (eg motor,lights,radio, doors shut etc), read 1.1Amps. Went thru the main fuses in the engine bay, pulled out radio one and it dropped to 1.03 Amps (which sounds about right - for the radio/clock memory?). Then pulled out a fuse (a 7.5Amp one) which was just called 'Charge', and the current dropped to 0.6 Amps. Anyone know what this fuse is for and why it's using power when car is off? One other thing, even with everything off, when I hook up the battery, I hear a relay switching - the one that i hear is a big sucker, seperate from the rest and bolted to the strut tower, I guess its for the starter? but is it supposed to click when I connect the battery? (with ignition key switched off)? any help is much appreciated, thanks guys could be a reverse polarity relay, id leave the "charge" fuse out and see what doesnt work, cigy lighter? not uncomon for relays to weld closed/on ---------- Post added 15-09-10 at 13:03 ---------- Quote: Originally Posted by Rb3o [View Post] my arent going up again, were can i get a new relay for them? say what? arent must mean aerial im guessing there is no relay on them its a whole control box

^^ how would i go about fixing my wind-ups? the rears are very stiff and the fronts aren't much better, also the fronts start to tilt forward when winding them up, so you need to push them back so they sit straight (otherwise it leaves a nice gap for yet more water to get in)? any help would be great

new bailey channels mabye??oil the slides and wires etc,give everything a good greese up,chances are that it has never seen any greese from new

Check where the arm is rivited to the door, ive had a few break away and its not until the window is under load that you see it move away. Usually about 3-4 turns into winding up

ok cool cheers guys i'll have a look into it

dont use grease it will just clog up with dirt and become worse use graphite powder

VLS using way too much gas, What could cause this, I have done a full service and tune up on the thing, And set points gap dwell and biffed a new afm on blah blah. But not sure why it running so rich I thought maybe oxy sensor but im just guessing.

try adjusting the screw in your afm,their should be a black cap on it,but if it doesent it probly means that someone has messed with it b4

This is most likely one for the Calais owners (with your fancy electrics ), but anyone's input is appreciated: I am in the process of hiding a lot of the wiring in the engine bay, just a few plugs that I want to know what they are for (most likely they will be for Calais electrics that are not present in the Berlina). I have looked at the wiring diagrams in both the Gregory's and Max Ellery's manuals, so I have an idea on some of them but wiring diagrams don't show Plugs, only wires and components, so I'd like your opinons too: 1) Plug - halfway along passenger side front guard - looks like its for a relay? wire colours are: green black orange orange (it looks like the 2 orange ones have been linked together) 2) Plug - next to passenger side headlight - wire colours are: orange with blue trace blue green green (not sure if it has a trace or not) black 3) Plug - along driver's side guard - wire colours: blue grey purple orange (or tan?) black 4) Plug - along driver's side guard - wire colours: white orange black 5) Plug - behind/above brake booster - wire colours: red white red with black trace black black with yellow trace black with white trace yellow blue 6) Plug - behind/above brake booster - wire colours: grey grey with red trace blue pink purple black green black with white trace 7) Plug - behind/above brake booster - (runs a long lead to this metal plate thingy with a whole in it - would this be the neutral-position switch for the auto?) wire colours: light brown? tan? yellow grey brown I just want to know what stuff needs to stay and what I don't need. (eg there is a purple/violet wire which runs from the ignition switch to the neutral start relay - which is switched on/off by the neutral position relay - then on to the starter motor - car is manual so I can get rid of those two relays and just run that purple wire straight from the ignition switch to the starter motor). just stuff like that which I can get rid of to make it look a bit tidier. Any help you guys can give me would be great Sam Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

prety sure number 2 is for the pop up calais headlight covers 5 6 and 7 are for the auto box etc i cut alot of wire out when i de loomed my bay so im trying to remember,il have a look at the calais in the paddock tomorow for you sam number 7 ,if you unplug it and bridge the wires in the plug behind the booster(cant remember which colors from memory)you will be able to remove the plate thingy

1 is for a horn relay 2 air con auxiliary fan relay 3 cruise control 4 headlight lid relay for calais 5 trans grey plug 8 pins 6 for trans if its white plug,8 pins 7 shift switch/goes to trans control unit, grey plug 4 pins be careful with the last lot of wires i think theres some reverse polarity diodes in there somewhere will also check the royal out tomorrow and get back to you

Quote: Originally Posted by Rb3o [View Post] VLS using way too much gas, What could cause this, I have done a full service and tune up on the thing, And set points gap dwell and biffed a new afm on blah blah. But not sure why it running so rich I thought maybe oxy sensor but im just guessing. air reg and coolant temp sensor will make it run rich too dude.cdheck resistance

^^thanks for the replys Danny & Kevin, Kev, just wondered I think you may have 1 & 2 mixed up? #2 is not plugged into anything on my car, however there seems to be a wire coming off it going to my horns, and they do work, so possibly there's another relay for it somewhere else? not a big deal tho.

Quote: Originally Posted by madrx3boy [View Post] ^^thanks for the replys Danny & Kevin, Kev, just wondered I think you may have 1 & 2 mixed up? #2 is not plugged into anything on my car, however there seems to be a wire coming off it going to my horns, and they do work, so possibly there's another relay for it somewhere else? not a big deal tho. manual says 2 orange,orange,green,black=horn relay for 2 horns 1 hi note &1 low note power from fuse 6

oh rite high and low, maybe one of mines not hooked up, i'll have to take a look tomorrow after work. thanks for your help Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

basically if its not being used on your car just do away with it or strip the loom back after pulling it back through the firewall and leave what is not needed inside and cable tie it up out of the way and as for everything that is needed drill a hole down in the kick panel put a gromet in and run your loom through the inside of the guard and up to where it needs to go and yeah obviously mount the loom up out of the way so its not gana catch on anything