pics of uni seal Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

So you have to really look close to see the join then, I was gonna stick with the original front seal, but I think I'll go with the universal front and the original rear seal (the rear window is way too round, and it makes it look like a VB-VK wagon!)

yeah very hard to spot the guy Kelvin got to do it has done a mint job

has anyone done the auto-manual conversion? if so how did you change the bush/sleeve?

yer i done a couple . you mean the spigot bush. easy

calais3L...you some sort of Holden guru?? You sure know a lot of "useful" information. I think you are correct about the red car being the clay buck, the Holden design studios have changed quite a bit since then! I have a magazine somewhere with the road test of the red Berlina Walkinshaw mule you mention. An interesting read. Dave: See if this is any use...step 8... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=74074 Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: calais3L...you some sort of Holden guru?? You sure know a lot of "useful" information. I think you are correct about the red car being the clay buck, the Holden design studios have changed quite a bit since then! I have a magazine somewhere with the road test of the red Berlina Walkinshaw mule you mention. An interesting read. Far from it! Yeah ive got that road test somewhere, still a good read. The walkinshaw "styling" was done at TWR in the UK, and I remember there being a press release at the time stating something like "No Holden Special Vehicles product will feature purely cosmetic add-ons, all add ons are developed in the MIRA wind tunnel in Europe to improve aerodynamics" or something like that, in other words there was no styling on that 1st SV Group A, all just for racing, I like that.

The aero package reportedly lowered the Cd to 0.32! The Walky (or "Plastic Pig" as some unkind journos called it) is pretty special. Saw a genuine one in the window of Ebbetts in Hamilton the other day, drooled for a good few minutes! I doubt we'll ever see a modern equivalent.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ_GTS lowered the Cd to 0.32! Lol, that reminded me of a time that I was reading an article about the Walkinshaw on the internet in study period a few years ago, the teacher saw 'Cd' and insisted I was just messing around with music, I was studying for automotive Crazy old man. I think the article said something about lowering the power needed to sit at 180km/h by 20kw, or something like that anyway. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: The aero package reportedly lowered the Cd to 0.32! The Walky (or "Plastic Pig" as some unkind journos called it) is pretty special. Saw a genuine one in the window of Ebbetts in Hamilton the other day, drooled for a good few minutes! I doubt we'll ever see a modern equivalent. A bloke down my way has a mint 30-something thousand kilometer one, Absolutely perfect!

Test cars were build 1 and 2 test one still had plywood holding thefibreglass pannels together and had no cut outs for the jacking points,thecalled the wheels ROH 5 spokers and the qoute was that they did not fit correctly,Cars 1 and 2 were the first off the new Notting hill production line,these cars share the same gearbox,diff,brakes,and suspensionas the Brock VL GP A. Minor note is the engine was mostly designed by Brock but removed from HDT when the shyte hit the fan

I've found that one of my door seals is squashed (or even burnt?! looks almost melted) does anyone know if they are easy to refit, or damage while removing? And wagon rear doors are different than sedan rear doors.. so are the seals different too?

I take you are talking about the door belts? If so you can remove the by lifting the belt close to the clips and slightly pulling out,then pull down,they are fixed to a small tee clip you will have to do this appox 22 times around the bottom of the door.And yes wagon door seals are different as well,Now the clips you will have to get from rarespares in Auzzie,I have been through this proess on the resto of 4106.

Yes wagon seals are different Rarespares LH Doorseal RDS1015 and the RH RDS1016 they are cheaper than sedan ones to $62.25 each easy to refit just be patient and you will need the little white clips that hold the seals on to

Not sure what you mean by door belts.. it's the rubber that runs around the edge of the door (on the door), it's the passenger rear door and it's warped at the top corner by the (C ?) pillar so I think it's where my 'open window' sound is coming from.

haha good luck with those little plastic clip things used to hold the rubber in

Quote: Originally Posted by Irontusk Not sure what you mean by door belts.. it's the rubber that runs around the edge of the door (on the door), it's the passenger rear door and it's warped at the top corner by the (C ?) pillar so I think it's where my 'open window' sound is coming from. They call them door belts.If you buy them new the have the clips with them,Or if you get a good belt from the wreckers use a long nosed plyers to pull the clips out. Not a hard job just got to be a bit careful

Quote: Originally Posted by ss nut They car them door belts.If you buy them new the have the clips with them,Or if you get a good belt from the wreckers use a long nosed plyers to pull the clips out. Not a hard job just got to be a bit careful Cool, thanks. It turns out I have 2 doors layin around here somewhere so I'll check them out over the weekend. So the paintball cruise has made me want a turbo again.. after thinking about where to get some of the parts from, I've realised something.. My wagon probably has no chance of passing a cert check because of the welds in the rear.. kind of makes me think I should sell it and find another one I'm sure there was a thread on here about what I'd need but ****ed if I can find it.. To get started you need: Intercooler (I was thinking of going straight to the FF plenum cause I'd need piping anyway, so the same pack that Mike is getting would sort that) Injectors. Exhaust manifold. Turbo. And things that I have probably forgotten... I think I read in the thread about Matt's cert that he didn't need to change his brakes, is that right? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Man I would of thought you'd have to upgrade the brakes when doing a repower as the vl brakes especially the n/a ones are crap

When I got my cert, I was running factory VL 3L front brakes and VL turbo rear discs. The guy did 3 stops from 100kmh to 0 and said "man it brakes really well" Irontusk - In terms of brakes, You will probably be able to get away with what you have, just throw decent front pads on and give them a bleed - that makes a huge difference in these cars.