Quote: Originally Posted by leb vlt [View Post] just gona go behind the strut and through were the a/c sits (vn) inside wheel arch and under chassis rail ---------- Post added 26-04-11 at 13:38 ---------- a friend of mine is doing the same covno into a vk and just tried the std starter in the std position with non pwr st and he said it doesnt clear the knuckle!!!, so has any got pics of theres mounted in the factory position? i cut the mounts off the kframe, and moved them towards the passenger side 15mm, then had the steering rods legthened and shortened to suit

Anyone know if the TUFF mounts use the 6 or 8 K Frame?

Quote: Originally Posted by Adam007 [View Post] Anyone know if the TUFF mounts use the 6 or 8 K Frame? pretty sure there for the v8 kframe mate.. What are ppls opinions on a gt 4788 powered ls1? Yes it would be sick but would it be too laggy on a non cammed ls1? im looking to make around 500 - 560 rwhp. I know a 42 can make this but i can get my hands on the gt47 with a 1.03 rear for a gd price. also dimensions wise, how much phscally is a gt47 bigger over the gt42, or should i dump both them and go a t04z? im about to buy a turbo so any info would be great guys thx

A gt4788 has the same size front housing as a gt55 which is big..... if you are only chasing 500-560rwhp you dont need something so big..... a bush bearing gt42 is more than enough and costs $1500 new from gcg and also costs stuff all to rebuild as its a bush not a bearing..... the problem with the smaller frame turbos is that most of them dont come with big rear flanges like a t6 for instance most are t4 and dont get me wrong they will still make power but hold back the motor as it has bigger ci so it needs to flow alot more thats why they go twins instead of singles and you will be not far from the limit of the turbo. you can also pick up a gt42 cheaper and have head room for more power later on also,

thx man, so other then rebuild prices wats the difference between bush and ball bearing? oil cooled only? spool time? reliabilty?

I've been doing abit of research lately on the turbo subject.. more specifically on WRX/STi turbos as their is a large range in different sizes, ball bearing and bush bearing that are a direct bolt on ect. From what I've read yes is most cases the ball bearing turbo will spool a little quicker but it also depends on the rest of your setup. If your engine revs well then you wont really notice much difference in spool time, also if your running an auto, a converter matched well to your setup will help. In terms of power figures the ball bearing turbo and bush bearing turbo have the same size housings than the over power figures should be pretty much the same. Reliabilty, I have read that ball bearing turbo's tend to take abit more abuse. A ball bearing turbo tend to tolerate drops in oil pressure, oil contimation or overheated oil. I belive this is mainly due to being water cooled where most bush bearing turbos arnt. Most bush bearing turbos rely on the oil for cooling Cost, as stated ball bearing turbo's are more expensive to buy and can cost you the price of a new turbo to rebuild. Hopefully alot of that info was useful.

Quote: Originally Posted by SHIZNT [View Post] I've been doing abit of research lately on the turbo subject.. more specifically on WRX/STi turbos as their is a large range in different sizes, ball bearing and bush bearing that are a direct bolt on ect. From what I've read yes is most cases the ball bearing turbo will spool a little quicker but it also depends on the rest of your setup. If your engine revs well then you wont really notice much difference in spool time, also if your running an auto, a converter matched well to your setup will help. In terms of power figures the ball bearing turbo and bush bearing turbo have the same size housings than the over power figures should be pretty much the same. Reliabilty, I have read that ball bearing turbo's tend to take abit more abuse. A ball bearing turbo tend to tolerate drops in oil pressure, oil contimation or overheated oil. I belive this is mainly due to being water cooled where most bush bearing turbos arnt. Most bush bearing turbos rely on the oil for cooling Cost, as stated ball bearing turbo's are more expensive to buy and can cost you the price of a new turbo to rebuild. Hopefully alot of that info was useful. very helpfull, thx a heap mate!

just the bearing core to the bush really, the ball bearing mainly helps on the smaller engines but really as we have tried on a good mates ls2 you cant really noticed the difference between them so he stuck with the bush and hasnt had any dramers what so ever.....

In my case due to having a little cute 2.0l four cylinder, I'm going for a reasonably sized BB turbo off a 2.5L STi... will spool quicker on such a small motor and should see the power fiqures I want on fairly low boost... In your case I say you could save abit of coin and go the bush bearing, just do regular oil changes and invest in a oil pressure & temp gauges.

found this pretty helpful.... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=142211

Ok so I have dropped the engine in and even if I did move the rack over and with the smaller starter there's no way I could fit a decent set of extractors in there. Is there any tricks that anyone has used to make it fit?

Quote: Originally Posted by jetgm6 [View Post] Ok so I have dropped the engine in and even if I did move the rack over and with the smaller starter there's no way I could fit a decent set of extractors in there. Is there any tricks that anyone has used to make it fit? I saw itgoes setup with the ls2 in it before it was stripped he moved the steering over and used the standard starter, and manged to fit custom extractors but the drivers side was in two pieces as they also had trouble, if you want call pittwater autos they did the convertion and castle hill exhaust did the manifolds.....

Quote: Originally Posted by jetgm6 [View Post] Ok so I have dropped the engine in and even if I did move the rack over and with the smaller starter there's no way I could fit a decent set of extractors in there. Is there any tricks that anyone has used to make it fit? so with the msd starter it fits? with pwr steering?

Quote: Originally Posted by grunter01 [View Post] I saw itgoes setup with the ls2 in it before it was stripped he moved the steering over and used the standard starter, and manged to fit custom extractors but the drivers side was in two pieces as they also had trouble, if you want call pittwater autos they did the convertion and castle hill exhaust did the manifolds..... It was also a abortion, i should know cause i bought it off him and thats whats in my car. I redid all of the mounts on the kfram etc and set it up right. As for the exhaust that was on his car i can't beleive that he actually paid for the job, the welds are shocking and the whole job has been done with a stick welding its hopeless, so i got it all redone aswell sorry for the sound quality http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkNi8FnvMzc

yeah i never could see it properly so i couldnt really say, car looks good anyways osk

i found this pretty help full, seems like he knows what his doing and made it work pretty well http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...ghlight=ls1+vl (http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=117205&highlight=ls1+vl) cheers tom

yeah its already been put in mate that bloke made a thread on this site also.... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=142211

wat fuel rails and fuel reg are u using grunter?

im going to use a turbosmart fpr3000 fuel reg as it has -10an inlets and a -8an return, and i used billet rails from vpw with -10an fittings... but you dont have to go that big for what you want, as that reg is rated at 3000hp and the rails are good for 1500hp...... are you still only chasing 550-580rwhp?

yer thats the pwr im aiming for atm till after i get a house, then spend big on a built motor! looking at the turbosmart fpr 2000 with a set of fast rails..