Quote: Originally Posted by HTURBO [View Post] Nice build BTW. Who built your custom exhaust manifold if you don't mind me asking. Exhaust Manifold was built by Promaz

Opened up the diff to check what gears are in and to make sure its LSD and all in goood order. Diff Gears are 3.45's and is a LSD, now just waiting till tomorrow for some oil and a new gasket to come in. After a clean up... Once the diff is sorted, ill get stuck into the gear box, needs a good clean and a paint... Having second thoughts about keeping it manual, but cant make up my mind, from what ive read a manualized auto seems the go... Id really like to hit the a flat 10.0 but thats not going to happen with the MX7 If i go the auto i should hit 10.0? Also are 3.45's the go or should i consider changing them 3.9's etc etc Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Trying to sort out engine bay, what holes to block etc etc, if anyone can help please post... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...00#post2924900 (http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?p=2924900#post2924900) Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

maybe move the fuse box to the glove box - what about the airbox ones? box the rails? there? pop out the dip in the d/s guard? push down the rise in the p/s guard?

Yea fuse box is being moved to the glove box, for got about the airbox ones, I think I'm going to keep the rails stock, and still not sure about the dip and rise, I've heard alot of stories of paint cracking and shrinkage etc

as long as it isnt full of bog like most people do, there shouldnt be a problem. some good work with a hammer and dolly and it will bring them up nice

Was at the panel beaters yesterday, dent in the rear quater is almost finished, and there starting the bay next, decided to remove/fill the bumps and that, the bloke working there rekons they wont need much bog if they beat it properly (as said above) hopefully bay should be done and it should be in high fill in 2 weeks...

Hey man coming together nicely. Here's my bay recently smoothed/filled/painted for some ideas on what to fill etc.. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Nice stuff mate didnt even know this car was in the build!! AVG45 - Awesome looking bay!!

Going back to the panel beaters tomorrow, most of the bay is done so pretty excited to see it!

nice fuse rail

---------- Post added 30-06-12 at 15:31 ---------- Am i missing anything? Can the holder for the polution canister? which can be seen on the bottom left be removed? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

it can be removed but alot of people including myself mount their oil catch can there.

I removed mine and then bolted the catch can from the inner guard.

Cheers boys looks a bit out of place so I'll remove it, also I noticed there's 2 bolts on each side, 2x where the battery would be and 2x where the air box would be... I'm pretty sure there ok to be welded up but just wanted to make sure the not for the bumper bars or anything???

They hold the guard brackets on. They can be welded but make sure the guard is exactly where it needs to be otherwise you will lose the adjustment for it. The holes under the bolts are slightly slotted. I just replaced mine with stainless dome head bolts

So ive been away on holiday the last 7 weeks, i was really hoping the VL would be painted by now but i guess these things take time. Welding, body work, and smoothing is all complete and should finaly see some colour by next weekend. Slow and steaddy... Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

All rubbed back and all ligned up, Finaly readdy for paint this week... Wheels: Custom 16x4 & 16x? Interceptors and Semi Slicks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just a couple of questions Im getting a set of 16" interceptors Customised, i want 16x4 fronts and not overally sure what size rears... Fronts: So before i go ahead i need to work out what width i want, so i want to know tyres sizes to suit? Is steering an issue with 4" front rims? Rears: Im thinking 16x8, but they cut out the centers and order the actual rim, so i need to be 100% on my width then i can organise the offset (want the rears dished) does any know how wide i can go? (my diff has not be shortened and i dont want to roll my gaurds) With tyres im unsure on what width for price works out best, so i also need to work this out first, im going to go with semi slicks... I know ive been brief but any input is much appreciated... Brakes: VLT 300rwkw Brake Upgrade -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So atm i have a standered VLT Brake set up: Im looking to upgrade the brakes to suit 300rwkw So ive done a bit of reading and from what ive gathered Rears: Change to Slotted Rotors - Aprox $200 Not sure on brand, any thing recomended? Fronts: VT Brake Upgrade or R33 GTST Brake Upgrade After speaking to Hoppers Stoppers they can organise the VT kit ranging from $800-$1200 depending on what rotors are chosen... +$200 Labor I also think ill get them to re do the brake lines and install the VT master cylinder Does the above sound about right for the power im making? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

You won't get much dish on your rear wheels without shortening the diff and I HIGHLY recommend rolling your gaurds if you want wide rubber and are going to go racing! I would go 8" wide on the rear with 255 tyres. 4" front wheels won't be much good for high speed cornering but they're fine for normal street driving, although they will lock up much easier under emergency braking situations.

Wat size tyre would u be putting on a 16x4 :-/ Whats the reasoning for the 16s and not the 15s? Tyres will be cheaper and easier to get ahold if last minute if needed (2nd hand)