Quote: I don't understand what's wrong with pod filters? why would they make them as a 'performance' part if they are suppposedly worse than the stock ones? Because they can make ****loads of money flogging them to people who have watched fast and the furious too many times. A high quality pod in a sealed, heat resistant enclosure that only draws in cold air will be an improvement if the original intake is poorly designed (ie metal airbox/piping, lots of bends in intake pipe, poor placement, small filter surface area) Even then I am still not a fan of oiled cotton filters, due to their larger pore size and the fact that oil attracts dust and dirt, meaning it gets dirty (thus less efficient) very quickly. It relies on this oil coating to do the filtering as the cotton membrane is inadequate, the less restriction in the filter means the less filtering its doing. The best airboxes are the ones that have well placed inlets and outlets to promote a mild ramcharging effect and good swirl to prevent dirt even reaching the filter element, a cold air supply placed as low as possible, and a big filter surface area. I work on some eye-wateringly expensive cars, and not one of them has a cotton air filter or a Pod. they are all paper elements in plastic boxes.

well ive changed the pod to the box now . sounds better with it on so maybe you are right with the performance of the box over the pod ! but one thing that led the change also is that ive ripped the mesh on the pod filter so it was sucking in dirt and sh*t. so now that ive got the box back in , its running sweet as now . only a little hole in the filter but nothing as bad as what the pod was like !! next thing on the list would be spark plugs / and leads . specific brand anyone suggesting ?? possibly cheap as i pretty much have a student income at the moment which is mum and dad . LOL Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

At the end of the day it boils down to looks. Air boxes look arse. You don't see too many race cars or show cars retaining an air box. They take up a lot of space, so if you need more room for cooler plumbing or the like, changing to a pod will give you some more room to play with. Like calais3L said, if you do it right, you will be fine. Another reason for air boxes is acoustics. Pods are noiser and give you more induction sound, this however is deemed unnecessary/unacceptable in modern cars - check out the setups on any new car, the boxes are often huge and complex, and the intake pipes are often strange shapes and can have short dead-end pipes on them to modify the sound. They are a far cry from the VL box that's for sure!

Ooh I stirred up abit of debate with the pod comment ! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

haha im not running an airfilter at all at the moment just straight turbo but need to get one sorted asap

Haha alright guys, not having a go at anyone or tryin to stir anything up Just wanted to know some reasoning behind the whole pod vs no pod thing. cheers for your comments Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

dose pipe FTW Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by NZ_BT1 [View Post] dose pipe FTW agreed Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

im learning so much about the pod vs box filters its quite intresting like sam said cheers for the comments and feedback one thing i must add is that i have noticed a change in accelaration . its not as 'quick' as before with the pod filter in , so i guess it does make a slight change in performance. then again with less resistance , more the chance of sh*t getting in the engine! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

what panel filter are you using?

um not sure , its a red one , bought it with the car . looks fairly new though

update rego expired. failed WOF. need handbrake cable tightend rear brakes need to be adjusted right rear tyre failed (less than 1mm of tread left LOL) so at the moment im either gona replace the tyre or buy 2 cepter rims or just normal steelies or even biscuits just need some damn warrantable tyre on to pass LOL but i have no clue how to adjust the rear brakes and cable so need advice ! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

cable is 2 bolts on a threaded rod under the car. Follow your handbrake cable and you'll be fine.be carefull though. You could lock the brakes on if you crank it just to get the handle lower. All VL's have a highish handle. I hope to god you didnt go to a VTNZ. they A-Dont know **** all B-Hardely speak english...if you indian your in no worries C-Rarely have worked on cars or know them well. Most are straight through WOF school only. At least out my way they are. Where are you in Aucks?

should really adjust them on the rear drums in the little windows on the top,with a screw driver

Quote: Originally Posted by UNONT2 [View Post] should really adjust them on the rear drums in the little windows on the top,with a screw driver ^+1 I work with brakes everyday and have learnt this is the past Take a wheel off then the drum off (whack it with a hammer if need be) and just check you have some shoes left and that your cylinders arnt leaking (pull back the little rubber piece at each end and check that its nice and dry) If sweet chuck the drum back on and adjust them like Danny mentioned Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Quote: Originally Posted by hsvhel [View Post] cable is 2 bolts on a threaded rod under the car. Follow your handbrake cable and you'll be fine.be carefull though. You could lock the brakes on if you crank it just to get the handle lower. All VL's have a highish handle. I hope to god you didnt go to a VTNZ. they A-Dont know **** all B-Hardely speak english...if you indian your in no worries C-Rarely have worked on cars or know them well. Most are straight through WOF school only. At least out my way they are. Where are you in Aucks? youll be thankful that i would never drive to VTNZ nor would i give my car to the local WOF places around the corner from me , dodgey as ****. but this guy i went to [oscer] evans mechanical in otahuhu is pretty good. he knows his stuff too , been doing it over 2 decades for sure. owns this ford thunderbird , ****ing awesome and i think it currently restoring this chevelle ! but yeah i had to give my car to him awhile ago to change the driveshaft as the universal joint in the old one gave up on me and the damn bolts were ceased on to the point where i was rounding the nut LOL anyways im out south auckland ways , papatoetoe. oh and thanks guys ill try and give it a crack if i can haha so wished that one of you guys were my neighbour LOL itd be a dream come true !! Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

update cant remove my rear tyres .... there stuck on. tried everything from planks of wood to sledgehammers to try and remove it and it just wont budge ... ?! what should i do ??

Quote: Originally Posted by 0C1876 [View Post] update cant remove my rear tyres .... there stuck on. tried everything from planks of wood to sledgehammers to try and remove it and it just wont budge ... ?! what should i do ?? Go to tyre shop and ask for them to undo wheel nuts for you with rattle gun

Quote: Originally Posted by 0C1876 [View Post] update cant remove my rear tyres .... there stuck on. tried everything from planks of wood to sledgehammers to try and remove it and it just wont budge ... ?! what should i do ?? The wheels nuts are seized on the studs, or the Rim is seized to the drum?

got the nuts off fine , no problem there , just getting the wheel off the drum .... tried just about anything to get it off but it wouldnt budge , not even a sledgehammer hitting it LOL