maybe hes gonna take the panel filter out, thats a good idea i guess, sleeper pod set up hahaha. + it solves the 'bla bla panel is better, pod is only gonna be sucking in hot air' well not this way!

because pods are **** so that pod is going to be near ground picking up dirt and dust water etc and the panel is a back up filter and the front of the box is also sucking in air and has no filter in front of it so i need panel filter.

what did u do to get inpounded ect

it didnt get impounded

o sh t soz bro had to many windows open and put in wrong post Nice write up =] cant wait to see it finshed man

Bump todays work on the old girl and suprises (not good ones) but yeah all getting replaced. SuperPro : Panhard Rod Bushes Ultima Heavy Duty lowered shocks Spring Insulator Bushes Sway Bar Link Bushing Kit Sway Bar Mount To Axle buhses Trailing Arm Lower Front & rear bushes Trailing Arms Upper bushes and adjustable panhard rod Also put in gas struts for bonnet lol Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

BUMP WTB Crank woodruff keys, adjustable cam gear, L pipe what goes from fuel tank to fuel pump,front bumper,bonnet (possibley white), radiator (possibley aliminium), manual tailshaft (preferably reco one)

Blown vl# i got to ask you where did you get your flat top pistons from? i thought you couldn`t use them because of valve clearence problems? u have a pick?

na because when i was building my engine and shaving the head to get more comp and putting flat top pistons in what i did was put like thin layer of clay or putty and put it on my pistons and then i tighten down the head to the torque settings with the gasket and then i rotated engine throught about 2 full cycles and then unbolted head checked it any of the putty or clay was stuck to the valves or had impressions.

oh ok then that is is one way, did it work out for u? where u get them from acl? i got n\a rb30e aswell

Quote: Originally Posted by antman271 oh ok then that is is one way, did it work out for u? where u get them from acl? i got n\a rb30e aswell Your in brisbane aye? try bursons or autobarn at virginia and ask for high comp flat top pistons. they should have them but have to order in.

ok then i asked autobarn slacks creek brisbane and they don`t sell them? not sure why? i`ll check else where but if you say u using them, cool ! your compression would be about 10.5 :1 a standarded compression for n/a is 9.5:1 for memory correct if wrong? i put a cam in mine from tighe cams and it goes well.

RB30 Stock Compression Ratio is: 9.0:1 and i have cam tech stage 3 cam it says i need 9.5:1 to run that cam i dont knwo what comp im running as i have not finished engine yet im just guessing ill have 9.5 or more comp then its got to go to dyno to get tuned when its all done. my cam specs are Stage No: 3 Grind No: 517 Description: Lope at idle. Good bottom end and mid range power designed for engines with limited modifications. Min 9.5:1 comp ratio,3.08 + diff ratio.RPM RANGE: 2200-6200 Transmission: MAN OR HI-STALL Cam Timing IN EX 26-68 65-29 Advertised Duration IN EX 274� 274� Duration @ �050� IN EX 218� 218� Cam Lift IN EX �495� �295� Lobe Sep 110� Running Clearance IN EX �000� �000�

have you shaved much off your vl head that will increase compression but you can only go about 20 thou. that would be a cheaper option then forgies then buy durlite pistons. i had a mate who used them with 100 hp nos kit a handled that fine. we pulled down motor after 50000 km and pistons where shiney as and reuseable.

if cant afford forgies get hyper-eutectic flat top pistons

Yeah hyper pistons are good for what u need save ur money and get the head ported and polished not too much though or ur chip for the computer won`t be tuneable. You say that u are still useing standard ecu with stage three chip is that still tuneable with all the mods u doing or would it be better off with after market ecu like haltec? very intersting? keep me informed.

Quote: Originally Posted by antman271 Yeah hyper pistons are good for what u need save ur money and get the head ported and polished not too much though or ur chip for the computer won`t be tuneable. You say that u are still useing standard ecu with stage three chip is that still tuneable with all the mods u doing or would it be better off with after market ecu like haltec? very intersting? keep me informed. lol i dont have 1000-3000 for haltec, my head has been ported and polished all my mods are up on that list needs to go to dyno to set new fuel pressure with adjustable fuel reg with the 044 pump and VLT injectors and i dont knwo if my chip reprogramable i don tthink it is i thnk programmed already and just plug in. all it does is change fuel delivery and timing. hopefully adjustable cam gear will help get more out of her

Yeah adjustable cam gear will get more out of her and run better through the rpm range. well i hope u have a good tuner to do that i don`t have many down my way all though nistune as just been set up at yatala there. i go to carb n inject on kingston rd very good tuner. one last question is the air flow meter do they adjust it as well when tuning or does the chip pick up the extra air comeing in with bigger cam?

Bump I m going to STZ automotive at landy st northgate they specialise in japense import motors and dyno tuning with dyno dynamics, with the air flow metre the chip will mostly changes it to suite cam but if need to dyno can adjust a bit to make it run better. todays work last bushes to do in front now are stabilizer bar bushes and put in new adjustable bar in. i have done all this in the front adjustable strut tops bushes,adjustable front stabilizer bar and bushes,front control arm bushes,ball joints,tie rod ends, castor bar buhses chassis ones and control arm ones, ultra low king springs with Monroe GT sports lowered shocks. I also put Blue LED's in my dash today and i got new dash back ground instead of that stupid GEN and insane VL ford killer gone now so new dash. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

good but hate those clear lights mate..