thanks Shaun, is there anywhere else i could perhaps tap into? thank you

for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat.

You have to make sure you're getting the right oil pressure to the turbo as well, especially on bigger turbos.

thanks wpn_VL.......great info...the car has been finished, but i'll keep it in mind for the future. thanks again

Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat. Has anyone done this on a VL? 5spdVl, wouldn't the pressure at the oil pressure sender be as high as anywhere else in the oil system? How much difference would there be between hotside feed pressure and oil pressure sender pressure? Certainly not enough to bother a T3? I'm just having a realistic guess at these btw.....

Some turbo set ups require oil restricters to limit the pressure going into the turbo I can't remember if the t3 uses one. The point I'm making is that you'll want to use a similar sized hose to the factory one.

Quote: Originally Posted by 5spdvl Some turbo set ups require oil restricters to limit the pressure going into the turbo I can't remember if the t3 uses one. The point I'm making is that you'll want to use a similar sized hose to the factory one. From my understanding, the oil restrictors purpose is to limit flow by increasing pressure. As pressure = Force/area. And since Force is constant when area is decreased (trying to push the same amount of fluid through a smaller hole) pressure is increased due to the inverse proportionality relationship. I think you might be blurring the differences between bigger=less flow turbo setups and BB vs Journal Bearing differences. This from garretts site: Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go �uphill� at any point.

Fuck man, all I'm saying is if you're too cheap to get a series 2 block, or to get it drilled/tapped, then try to keep your lines as close to the stock size as possible.

chill mate didn't mean to upset you.

hey mate just a quick question just did a conversion in a vh sl/e put a na rb30 then put the turbo set up on it first day out blew a head gasket only running 7psi wat sort of head gasket u think

Genuine Nissan HG will be fine. Quote: Originally Posted by Tones chill mate didn't mean to upset you. All good man, I think I got frustrated that I couldn't get my point across.

Anyone got pics of what these banjo bolts look like? And also is an upgraded alternator needed when doing a turbo conversion?

Quote: Originally Posted by wpn_vl for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat. You are right mate. i did the same to my series 1 motor but it was running only a ebay oil cooled turbo.My oil return goes straight to the sump and i have braided line to the to the oil pressure sender for oil feed. To KLR-747 No leave alternator per standard. If in a rush to get it up and running on a t3 turbo, you do not have to run the coolant lines at all just run oil lines on a series 2 block.I ran a t3 with out water lines on the turbo on a na decomp motor for 1 year at 10psi and the turbo never made noises,the temp never went over half way and i just bent the coolant lines over and blocked them off.But to keep your turbo lasting forever try to keep your coolant lines.

Thanks for that info mate The standard setup will not be for longer than a year while another motor is getting built in the mean time. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

I would suggest using coolant lines, they aren't hard to connect. Just do it once and do it right. Quote: Originally Posted by KLR-747 Anyone got pics of what these banjo bolts look like? And also is an upgraded alternator needed when doing a turbo conversion? Just a hollow bolt with a hole through it Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

not trying to be a smartass or anything, but arent the pistons different on a vlt to vl n/a? and what is the difference if there is one?

cheers Shaun, can they be purcahsed at a nut/bolt shop or do i need to buy specific ones?

Quote: Originally Posted by KLR-747 cheers Shaun, can they be purcahsed at a nut/bolt shop or do i need to buy specific ones? I doubt a nut and bolt shop would have them. They normally don't stock that kind of thing. But fluid/hydraulic shops should. I no Pirtek sell them that's where I got mine, check if one is near you. http://www.pirtek.com.au Sometimes nissan might also stock them. Let me no if you can't track any down

thanks man, theres one about 15mins from so might go see em on saturday if im not working, otherwise will be another day.

heya. im new to this.. i have a berlina wagon and am going to do a turbo conversion on it. i have a t3t4 turbo with a high-mount manifold and 40mm wastegate.. just wondering how much psi is safe to run it on with out the 7th injector and decomp plate?