BARGIN TRUST WASTEGATE! Heaps of Heads to get through and reco! STOCK RB26 Inlet Port vs PORTED STOCK RB26 Exhaust Port vs PORTED STOCK RB30E /ET Ports - very poor design from factory! Inlet Exhaust More pics and info coming - if the sizes are too big - let me know and ill shrink em. Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

How does that happen? Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

Calais25t - Either Very High RPM or a combination of overheating underload and a faulty valve guide from the manufacture causing it to crack and dislodge. I have seen the same thing happen to other GTRs that have had High RPM through them (8k+ revs during shifts etc). On the RB30 - the bottom end will fly apart before 8k is hit lol! Head is off a very late series R33 GTR - and the condition is immac insie and out plus there were bonus aftermarket cams hidden under the rocker covers Some original photos have not been recovered yet.

very good mate u are doing a great job

Good luck mate, you could do it for 10k but you need plenty of luck (no breakages)..

This sounds like a good challenge but its not something everyone can do themselves since you're getting all these parts at a really cheap price and you're doing a det conversion yourself. A N/A bottom end should be pretty reliable if the revs are kept low. How much would the finished product cost if an "average Joe" just walked in off the street and had this work done?

was that red thing rajab or Nizpro?

Hey Costa good luck with this. If you need a hand with this let me know (I can even be the test driver!!) See you on Tuesday. Also get rid of the Fonz, it really disturbs me!!

haha the fonz! Everyone can get cheap prices if they want to bargain for it. I get people as kin for sponsorship all the time in my driftshop business and there has been a few lucky people that have been successful in receiving sponsored parts. You too can get cheap parts - just have to look. This is a hard challenge but if you were to just try and be diligent and persistent you can get the cheap parts. The labor side of things is an easy tackle..... you can get service book for $40 and that will guide you through everything. Workshop tools you can borrow or you can get one of your mates or even team up with someone off the forum to get it all underway. Ive got a full workshop of my own so i have access to everything i need to do just about anything - however workshops are not required. Sh1t Ive even done engine conversions on my back in my driveway when i was 18 with jack stands and a crane that i hired lol! Engine's when left stock are not hard to put back together. The VCT conversion is dead easy and you can do it with hand tools and a welder. Cant weld or don't have a welder? ANY exhaust or engineering fabrication joint might just give it a blast of the tig for $25 and a nice smile. You can drill and tap it yourself and thats pretty easy in its own right. I may even try some eBay waste gates out etc which you can pick up for $100-150 that will last the length of the track and a few passes. The two things wrong with the generic HKS copies are the diaphragms and the valve tolerance's. Turbos can be purchased cheap and i may even try an 'ebay' turbo after the project is completed to see if they will hold up and actually flow their rated figures. To the average Joe who cannot even undo his own wheel nuts - let alone an engine removal and upgrade - this guide will serve as a foundation for learning about engines and what actually goes on inside. Plenty of pictures and maybe even a tutorial - time permitting, will be completed. I will try to get it all together in one coherent message/website and make an article about it for the site.

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100% agreed. Why risk something that is generally regarded as a fairly necessary replacement in even a skimpy build. Costa, good luck. This could cause a few of the regular nay-sayers to eat their hats. Keeping in mind many of these people wouldnt know what was involved in their very own engines, other than what was written on their receipts... Guys this has been stated so many times. He's trying to run a 10. Dosent matter whether its 10.99 or 10.00. More importantly it doesnt matter if it runs 1 ten second pass or 100. Sure, most people wouldnt want to risk their engine blowing after the first pass, but many will never run a 10 anyway. Shutup and follow the thread to see what can really be done...

Sounds like a pretty cool kinda challenge.. even tho Costa, you do have things in ur favour here in terms of workshop, tools, connections, availability of parts... and i only say this becuase, being in the industry u are in.. for the hours u are at work everday u are also around people who are in the same industry etc. word gets around about parts, u guys can work together to favour urselves in situations where the average joe wouldnt have as much a chance.. But that aside.. its not really about 'who can and cant do it'. You've set the challenge. It's your car being built to run a 10 and u are doing the work. At the end of the day if it costs YOU less than ten grand.. like others have said. Mission accomplished.. Im keen to follow this one along and watch u acheive ur goal. It will be both satisfying to complete the task as much as race it at the track and piss urself laughing when u get that timeslip with a 10on it. haha Nah fully stock rods in my engine Bigpsi... i think u takin things a little too personally man.. stock rods are stock rods.. congrats that u've run 100+ watever mph with them and busted some good times. but at the end of the day... aftermarkets are made for a reason... at a lot less the cost of a broken engine and an embarrassing stack at the track or, a nice oil down when ur bottom end blows its load all over the track... but... if thats how u like to do ur advertising... well... i dont think anyone here is stopping you. Go hard costa.. good thread, good challenge...

keep the bullsh!t to PM's... most of us are interested to see the progress of this thread... darkstar: good luck mate, for most people, running a 10 means forking out more than $10,000 - i want to see how many runs it can handle before you have to spend over budget... what i mean is, if you build the car below budget and run a 10, keep running it til you have reached the $10,000 mark, would be interesting to see how many passes you can get out of it...

You can do it! Pull a ten! oh i gotta see u in next couple weeks completly forgot about those injectors lmfao

Thanks for the support guys. The main thread will be updated soon as ive got a few options available now with car choices and so forth as well as putting costings on the parts in the pics. I'm really bent on the 2spd glide as i want to carry it over for my 9/8sec package in the works. Anyone got one cheap with a ~4000rpm converter? I prefer the 1000HP Keas one if you got one for sale. This alone is just under 5k NEW leaving not much margin for other parts - however im sure turbo/ecu/fuel setup would be 2k leaving 3k for other mods to strenghen the engine and get the chassis prepped for the track. If i go twincam - VCT will be connected with the RB25 heads and ill just run a thick cometic gasket. Ill start stripping the RBs i have next week and checking the condition of the bearings and rings etc. Turbo will be posted next week yay!

make sure you get it done mate stick it up the haters!

Ill Try! Its not hard just gotta buy it all the right price and time... the only thing thats not really to spec is the bottom end - but it will hold up for heaps fo street fun and few track meets.

Costa love your avatar i have it on a T shirt,this is a great challenge for you and let the less mechanicly inclined people see how it is done on a budget. then others can try with a little bigger budget.

Darkstar good luck on your project be very interesting what the final result is What ECU you planning on using?

This could turn into a guide for a budget 10 second car which could help alot of people.