Kyle, Regarding fuel pressure regulators I need some information. We are doing some upgrades to a couple of RB30's at the moment and come fuel system wise Im not totally sure the best steps to take. Both motors are fairly fresh with good t3/t4 highflows and will both be set up with LINK ecus. We are expecting power to be around the 230 - 250 rwkw mark. Now with gtr 440cc inj or 550cc inj will i need to upgrade the regulators past that of the std vlt item? We are looking to keep one of the cars very sleeperish and would much prefer to run with std regs to aid in this look. Some guys are saying to me yes no probs it can be done, others are saying no you will need the bigger reg. Whats your view? Steve

Im sure Kyle will reply but just to share my own experiences....Ive made 280+ rwkw with mine (Auto) with a GT35/40 and 2xBosch 910pumps, standard VLT Reg and single entry rail with 13B 550cc injectors. Never had fuel pressure problem. Hope that helps some.

Thanks Daz, we were looking at a few options, we just want to go cost effective and simple. Were the inj plugs on the rx7 550's the same as the vl or different? Also Kyle we are looking at running 984 pumps, any negatives in doing so verse say the 044 apart from the different fittings?

Cant get anymore cost effective than what the car came with factory : ) Injector plugs are different dependant upon S4/5 but both are different to VL style plug...they will fit stock rail if you turndown the tops of the injectors by about a mm (so's to allow fuel hose to be pushed over)...

Yeah I had heard that they needed that slight mod to fit and I wasnt clear wether there was a difference in plugs!

The GTR injectors are good enough for about 280-290rwkw through a manual at stock pressure in a VL, they have the same plugs as the VL. The RX7 injectors have different plugs though. I would stick with the GTR injectors and the stock reg is fine even up to 300-330rwkw through an auto, the only real reason to start needing to change it is usually the need for more pressure. Past that power level it becomes a good idea flow wise, rather than actually needing it to control pressure under power. I think I have 2-3 sets of GTR injectors here, they usually go for about $250 if you can't find any. Kyle.

Thanks Kyle, that is what I had thought about it but you hear so many conflicting stories these days. I will let you know if I need a set of the gtr's as I may have a set lined up already. Cheers!

the rectangle injector plugs on the s4 rx7 injectors will be the same, it will just be the locating pin on them that will be different, so you just grind it down and you wont have a prob (its just a locating pin, it doesnt hold the plug in place or anything, i always do it when fitting plugs to different air temp sensors and water temp sensors)

Ok cool, ive got the series fives then and they are def different and very hard to get connectors for if the injectors dont come with them!

they shouldnt be that hard. Call automotive service solutions/petroject (whatever its called in your particular state) and ask them for the oval type injector plug.

Motor traders sell them now dazz aswell,easy to get now cheers darren

Hey Kyle, wonder if you could help me out with Q on the rocca breathers... i have freshly rebuilt pretty std rb30et prob done bout 800ishkm since run in and having probs with heaps of oil coming from the rocca breathers...like filling a 600ml bottle(just temporary) in few weeks of prob 80% daily driving the rest giving it hard time. im using mobil 1 5-50 which was recomended by a mate. i got a feeling that its prob bit to thin?? and suggestions with another brand type etc etc?? also are std size breathers adequate size or do i need to go bigger?? ive seen few high hp cars that have (looks like) std size hoses and breathers... any suggestions?? have also read that you need to mod the oil galleries in the head to stop build up in the head when giving it a hard time...from what i know its std reco head that was done at time of the engine being built... thanks mate dale

Hey Kyle, what do you prefer for street applications, bar and plate or tube and fin intercoolers? Why? I have a bar and plate mick's metalcraft one at the moment but was considering upgrading to a plazmaman tube and fin 'race series' item. I've noticed a fair few big names over here making to swap to tube and fin, why is this?

any interest in BMW's?

Quote: Originally Posted by plugger Hey Kyle, wonder if you could help me out with Q on the rocca breathers... i have freshly rebuilt pretty std rb30et prob done bout 800ishkm since run in and having probs with heaps of oil coming from the rocca breathers...like filling a 600ml bottle(just temporary) in few weeks of prob 80% daily driving the rest giving it hard time. im using mobil 1 5-50 which was recomended by a mate. i got a feeling that its prob bit to thin?? and suggestions with another brand type etc etc?? also are std size breathers adequate size or do i need to go bigger?? ive seen few high hp cars that have (looks like) std size hoses and breathers... any suggestions?? have also read that you need to mod the oil galleries in the head to stop build up in the head when giving it a hard time...from what i know its std reco head that was done at time of the engine being built... thanks mate dale It might have something to do with you using synthetic oil in a new engine, the rings don't bed in and its is considered a big no no, you should always run mineral oil in a fresh engine for at least 2000k's, at least in street applications anyway. Another thing may be ring gaps, which you can't do anything about now, and the size of the breathers. Because air speed through smaller breatehrs is higher, it often sucks out more oil with the air, increase the breather size, and it often brings the oil levels down. However this wouldn't just show up with a rebuild unless you've increased power/performance a lot over your last setup. Also, the oil restrictors are located in the block, not the head, and yes, its a good idea to make them smaller at the time of your rebuild, however this wouldn't be the cause of your sudden increase of breathing unless you went to a bigger oil pump and are really ringing the neck of this thing. Quote: Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1 Hey Kyle, what do you prefer for street applications, bar and plate or tube and fin intercoolers? Why? I have a bar and plate mick's metalcraft one at the moment but was considering upgrading to a plazmaman tube and fin 'race series' item. I've noticed a fair few big names over here making to swap to tube and fin, why is this? I really don't see any point in changing a cooler unless you know the figures. THere is so many different brands, good an bad on the market, and a good tube and fin may cooler better than a poor bar and plate, while a good bar and plate may flow more than a poor tube and fin. Read that a few times till you get it:) Micks metalcraft are a reputable brand, and should use decent cores, the bar and plate, as a rule, will cool better than a tube and fin. My best advise for you to decide if you need to change it to a good tube and fin, is do some pressure testing before and after the intercooler. Get some sort of pressure gauge on each side and meausre pressure drop across the core, just borrow a mates boost gauge or something. First thing, plumb it into the same spot as your current boost guage, and go for a drive. Make sure they both rear the same boost, as some don't, and if they are different, keep note of that difference. Now switch to each side of the cooler, and see the pressure drop. You don't want anymore than about 2psi drop across the core. It won't hurt so much, there would be heaps of 8/9 sec cars with more, but its a good ruile of thumb to know where there would be some benifits and gains to be had. Test first, change later. Quote: Originally Posted by .loz any interest in BMW's? I'm happy to build a manifold for anything from a motorbike to an airplane, the only requirement is a vehicle to build it on. What sort of BMW and can you get me a car local in brissy to build it on?? And what sort of kit/engine would you like to run?? Cheers......................6BOOST

whats the biggest cam that you can run without having to change the rocker arms?? I just want to change my valves and valve springs but don't really wanna spend money on rocker arms. From what i have read i can use a wade 818b but not an 1147c??

You don't have to change rocker arms for either, we even have hydr camshafts with 10% more lift and duration than the 1147C with stock rocker hardware running with no problems. There are far better designs than the wade camshafts around now, they are great and have served well, there is heaps of fast cars on the streets with them, but they are based off V8 profiles and don't lift teh valve as fast as they could with the size lifter the RB30 has, so your basically giving up midrange and bottom end power for any given camshaft size. Pm me your setup and I'll help you select a camshaft. Cheers.............................6BOOST

kyle, have you got that quote for me yet since you're not responding to my pm's?

Thanks kyle, i am currently setting up a psi drop measurment system anyway, as i have my eboost measuring boost from before the cooler and my boost gauge running from the intake manifold. Obviously bar and plate makes little pressure drop. A friend of mine has a plazmaman tube and fin core on his vlt 5 speed, all stock otherwise with exhaust and on 7psi, and the thing goes harder than mine used to when it was all stock with an exhaust, chinese cooler and 15psi!, it has a tight as anything lsd and still just wants to wheelspin everywhere! The cooler itself cost $800 (it's one of his 'race series' or something cores) but the peformance difference is quite incredible over the bar and plate hybrid copy i had! All that really proves though is as you said, a good tube and fin is better than a crummy bar and plate.. i was just astonished with the difference!

Don't compare 2 different cars and think that the difference was the cooler, chances are minimal that there was more than 5hp diference between either on those cars. BAr and plate flows worse, not better, they just cooler the air more, typically. And make sure you see how much the manual boost guage reads on the same side as the Eboost before you measure drop, as I have seen Eboosts read up to 2 psi out before. Sorry if I missed your pm lowbstvl, I'll go have a look for it and reply later, if I can't find it I'll pm ya:) Cheers............................Kyle.